Retro sometimes shaper

2011-05-08T11:29:00.000-07:00

Found some old Schwinn's...

2011-04-20T08:40:00.000-07:00

Logs

2011-04-04T08:33:00.000-07:00

2011-03-24T20:07:00.000-07:00

2011-03-20T08:38:00.000-07:00

Weber

2011-03-11T15:46:00.000-08:00

2011-01-27T09:33:00.001-08:00

2011-01-26T13:04:00.001-08:00

lolz...

2010-09-27T20:03:00.000-07:00

checked stats, lots of people showing up here...
lolz....

hey, waxbumps.blogspot.com sillies....

wut?

um..new content

2010-08-30T20:16:00.000-07:00

is here
Nothing more than tidbits and pics from another Santa Cruz trip...
lolzin...

SC, last day....

2010-08-04T06:10:00.001-07:00

video here

2010-08-01T10:28:00.001-07:00

Video of SC a few weeks back

Whew...

2010-07-16T05:16:00.000-07:00

Just got back from a much too long southerly trip.I called the swell right, found the spots...
And there it was.My road dog backed out three days before leaving but I found another to go on short notice.Away we went...A bit risky as I really didnt know who I was traveling with, had only met him while surfing The Noll last year.
Worked out well, he gets what being a dirt bag road tripping surfer is all about.And it aint a tour guided trip to Pavones where the dollars flow and the waves are handed to you.
It was a plus he could surf too.We went south.We had six boards between us, a few hundred bucks, an ounce of my finest and 12 bars of wax.
Checked the usual spots on the way to Surf City but most were small and funky. No matter, I knew we would score by Sunday when the swell filled in.
We arrived at one choice wave farm late Saturday night, woke Sunday to 2-3 foot glassy longboard perfection-but that wasnt why were there...by 3 pm though, the swell had begun to show...

Surfed lined up point break that afternoon with only two others out, 6 feet at 22 seconds, feathering lips and racing walls. I had not surfed much the last few months, between conditions and my knee, not much point. But my skills were once again solid, my pop up as bulletproof as ever as I burned wave after wave to the small cove. Much tip time thank you...
We made some dinner before dark, took some swell readings on the period and direction and called it a night.
5:15 the next morning...woke to some hard slaps and crashes coming from the shorebreak...oh yeah, from 11,000 miles away, our swell had arrived.
I suited first and didn't get back to the van till 10 am. Though the crowd had become thicker, I still burned a wave every set and a few inside waves in between.
One thing about Oregon surfers-we paddle harder than most, for longer than most.It's a survival thing up here but a blessing when it's warm, organized and crowded down south.I saw a few familiar faces in the water, I have been coming here for 15 years now, catching southerly swells.
"So, how big is it going to get?" I was asked by a surfer who knows I only show up when its going to get good.
Don't know I said...
"Right..." he muttered, laughing as he walked away and I started waxing up the hull.
I ate lunch, burned a fatty, suited up for round 2...
I walked up the point and paddled out to XXXX XXXXXXX, sets were overhead and makeable for 200 yards if you were fast enough.
I had the magic hull, speed down the line is just not an issue.
My first three waves were long looping roller coasters, up, down, up down, speeding down the line with a certain joy that only comes when you earn your shit.An hour in to the session, I took off behind the 8 foot peak, backdoored a sweet cover up, sprayed 30 of my best friends and made a beeline for the channel-I saw 12 more waves behind the one I had so I went over the back and paddled my ass off to get in position for the last three biggest waves of the set.
I took one on the head, made it over the next six when number 10 in the set reared up with no one in position but me and a guy who changed his mind when he saw I was committed.Easy two stokes and pop, I was up and looking down the line of a ten foot face, 200 yards of wall in front of me and only a few surfers to not run over.
I felt the Soul of my Father takeover as I hit the first bottom turn, Hakman would have been proud.
My Father too.
I styled through every turn the wave required, I skimmed the face with my hand as I was rising and falling in the pocket. I surfed that wave with the casualness of 43 years in the water.
It was as good as surfing gets in my old age.
I went over the back when the wave had worn down to a few feet. Tired, I sat in the channel for a few minutes, reflecting on how good those turns felt, how fast the wave accepted me and what a delight it was to be here.
I had two more set waves like that in the afternoon/evening session...it was our first day.
My buddy was surfing down the point, riding his SUP like a longboard, no paddle as he didnt want the grief of being a sup dog.
I kept telling him not to worry, plenty of waves, surf like you want to...eesh.
But he had a point.
What I fail to see is why I can burn 30 waves in an hour on my 10' but a SUP gets dogged if he gets 10. Just more visible? I don't know but it's weird.We put it all to bed early and said a small prayer for some Sun...it had been overcast all day...and we were counting on seeing some Sun, ya know? We live in Oregon for Christs sake!
Morning 2 found me suited first but sore, no matter, I eased out to the beginner spot and harvested wave after wave among the less skilled.
School was in.Two hours of that and it was my turn to shoot some video of my buddy.
He took his paddle with him and while he had never surfed this spot before, his innate sense of what the ocean was up to helped him get a few tasty set waves out of the pack.
Ok, more than a few.
One wave out of every set.That's how we roll kiddies.I was stoked for him, he lives in an area of Coastal Oregon thats even shittier than my local spots and these perfect point peelers were just his style.I shot some really nice waves of him and then had some lunch, burned one down, suited up for the afternoon session...I joined him out in front and we dominated the line up for the next three hours.
Aint bragging, we just took any wave we wanted and surfed it with style and finesse, we owned that point for a bit.
Don't know why, we just did.On the hill later, I brought this up, how everything just seems to work sometimes.
He commented that I never lost my board that session, not once. Never fell.Not once.Pwned it.lolz.

Morning two found us sore and tired, not whining but showing us both that we may have surfed too much on the first day-if thats possible...The swell was at 6-8 feet, 19 seconds...clean up sets were common and more than once, I saw every one get swept down the point by 16 wave sets.I sat on the peak patiently...always trying to burn the later set waves that had cleared the inside of stray paddlers- not much worse than having to change your line because of some lazy fucker who doesn't know to paddle up the break and take your beating for being stupid.
Had my fill in three hours and went in to shoot some more video of Ken.
I had a lot of fun doing this, I could tell what wave he was going to set up for, roll tape while he was still looking for his, his wave knowledge was showing hard.
He was laying down some pretty lines on his SUP, he surfs with a mostly laid back style with hints of vertical, a few slashes on the cutback. And always in control.I was burnt so I stayed out of the water, skipping session 3...which turned out to be a smart move...
The next morning, I was up at dark suited by the glow of dawn and in the water first...within 20 minutes, 15 of my best friends had joined me...No matter, every single one of them had seen me getting waves and knew I was on a mission.
I only surfed and hour that morning, saving my self for the better tides coming at noon.My buddy had a go on the SUP, getting some sweet lefts out of the peak and some crazy layback cheater fives using the paddle as a brace. Sweet style...Well, day three and four were much the same, day four found us both sick though from the water, nasal shit, coughing a bit, weak. The swell had dropped some to a longboarders paradise, shoulder high and dead glass. I surfed out in front while Ken rolled video, take off, stall, nose ride, cut back, stall, nose ride...a few waves gave me 20 seconds of tip time. I was back, surfing as well as ever.
Style, gotta love it.I came in after finally losing my board on a bailed ten over. It was the first time the log had gotten away from me the whole trip.That's right, 200 waves and I lost my log once.Once.Leashes are for dogs.Ken paddled out and took over, wave after wave, like he knew that in a week, he would be looking at 40 knots of onshore wind madness back home.He styled through some nose rides, long sweeping cutbacks, really using the paddle to complement the turns and tip time.
I rolled the video for him, capturing some really good surfing, really casual and graceful-for a sup rider...lolz.

We were packed and ready roll north...and there were four locals sitting in front of the van, in front of the parking spot we had lived in for four days. I sort of knew two of them from time spent in the water. I walked down to the little make shift benches and said thanks, laid out some nugs I had grabbed out of my jar for them and told him we were paying our taxes to the crew, thanks for having us and thanks for keeping such a beautiful break, well, beautiful. They all laughed, said hi's and good bye's, thanks for the weed and come back soon.
Doesn't get much better when two highly visible tourist types get an invite back from the locals.
We must have done something right.
Yeah, we owned this surf trip.
Eating beans out of the can, donut runs, not spending a penny that wasn't going to get us surf...no showers, no tour guides, no chicks, no matter.

We leave again in two weeks.

I will post the video when it's done.
Here is still taste...

See ya kiddies....

Wow..

2010-06-24T07:53:00.000-07:00

Really abandoned this bastard, no?

Haven't beed posting, don't know why really. Not much to share and if nothing to share, whats the point?
Alive and well, surfing as good as ever.
Catching the south facing spots more often than not.
There.
See ya whenever.

Where the fuck?

2009-12-15T12:40:00.000-08:00

Yeah, been coasting...
A trip South, a trip North, tourists at the house.
Some surf.
Lots of surf.
No surf.
Shaping.
Lots.
4 in the last three weeks.

Burnt on the whole blogging thing.
Not worth the time.
Mostly.

I was reading a few weeks ago about another 'save the fucking world' type idealist, ya know, the whole carbon credit buying, Patagonia wearing fuckhead who can't surf...that tipped it for me. He was begging for money so he can go to sea and study the garbage that is piling up.
Clueless.
There is nothing you nor I are ever going to do about the issues facing this planet.
Overpopulation is the root and as long as that is the end all, be all, forget wasting your time on such petty things as how much trash is in the water.
And all of the fucking little words you or I write will not change anything.
Not even for that one little starfish.
Buy a clue beggar and ~~fuck~~ fund yourself.

On a note closer to home...

Hey baldy dude in the purple truck...
You should watch yourself.
We are.
You seem to like to post surf reports.
And dig the OSP.
Don't.
Seriously.
And if you don't back off some of your recent claims...I'm gonna get some vid of you surfing and post it.
You wouldn't want that.
So go easy from here on out and its all good.
Do what you have been doing and you will reap the rewards.
That's all I got to say on that.

The rest of you, carry on.

Magic

2009-10-14T05:38:00.000-07:00

When I asked yesterday for 'more'...I had no idea that not only would there be more but everything would line up as well as it did.
Two hours, 30 plus waves to the beach.
Two guys out on traditional longboards.
Surfing.
And to think, I almost didn't paddle as it looked small.
I suited up and hiked the trail to the water and I saw a Starfish a tourist had left high and dry, as I placed it in the tidepool, I looked up to see an 8 wave set A frame and peel off as pretty as anywhere.
"I love Oregon" I whispered.
Looked like Costa without the palm tree's and pretty girls.
Of course, the wind was a bit much and the hard rain falling made little difference to me.
We had lots of waves before we swapped boards for kicks. I got to ride a Dave Johnson old school log and he rode my 10'0".
First wave on his board was five over with Soul into a peeling 3' right handed bowl, as I put my toes over and clasped my hands behind my back, I turned my head and looked at him over the back.."Nice board!" and went on my merry way.
He then burned a left that lasted 55 seconds to the beach.
That's a long wave for around here.
The next hour, the rights went unridden as the lefts were just magic bowls all the way to the sand.
More than a few lefts went by too, unridden.
It was as good as it gets.

Today the buoy is showing 18' and winds from the South at 35 knots with gusts to 50.

That's alright, yesterdays session will last for weeks.

A swayser sent me this link for some Greenough edge rail stuff he used on his Velo kneeboards, cool stuff if you haven't seen it.
That's all I got, need to chase some cats that were blown up a tree and I am sure I have a chicken or two that is not happy with the wind.

See ya in the water.

More...

2009-10-13T08:27:00.000-07:00

Of yesterday please...

I got the consummate Oregon surf call...

"You surf yet?"
Yeah.
"Its really good here, you coming out again?"
Nope.
"I wish some one else would show up, its..ah...pretty good."

Read that as...
"Its really good but a little bigger than it looks, would not mind having another body in the water, ya know?"
Not a judgment mind ya, just pointing out how uncrowded we can be, especially when it starts pushing OH plus and a bit scary on the set swings.

In other news, today is 35 knots from the south, swell is either 10' or 15' depending on the buoy.
Welcome to Fall.
And Winter.

Left my suits out last night for a natural bath, inch of rail has left them clean and fresh...and wet.
Heading out in a few.

That's all I got...so here is a picture of a bunny with no pancake on his head.
See ya.

Wait, check this out...
Paul Jensen picking on the hipster plank movement.
I am laughing along with him.

2009-10-13T08:15:00.000-07:00

Finally...

2009-10-12T06:30:00.000-07:00

Got some yesterday, log time but its all good.
Sun was out, light winds and reforms from outside made for a fun session.

That board below is one to be copied for a local guy, it has a channel set up the length of the bottom...ok.
Why? I don't know.
I asked on sways about it but nothing yet.
Picture Harbour nose channels running the length of the rail.
For lift he says.
Lifting what?

Hmmmph.

In other news...My new egg shapes...

Swell and winds change around today, forecast says really big with lots of wind, we will see.

Found this stash of boards...from a few era's no doubt...

That's all I got, shaping later today with any luck...
Something like this maybe?

See ya...

.

2009-10-11T16:58:00.000-07:00

Mother Nature...

2009-10-10T09:02:00.000-07:00

Bit me this week.
Really.
No surf to be had around these parts.
Zip.
Not even absolute crap.
And then...
I get punctured by a cactus leaving my right hand unusable, the tip went through my skin into the base knuckle.
Ouch.
A spider bit me on my thigh while looking for surf on Tuesday afternoon.
Didn't think much of it.
Should have.
I am now sporting a square foot of numb and blotchy skin, from my knee to me upper hip.
When I stretch to the right, it burns like some one stabbed me with a spear.

So yeah, Mother Nature, whats up?

So I am heading off to the beach to do some clean up.
Hit the trails and clean them up too.
I have all day.
Its 3' at 7 seconds and 17 knots from the North.

Would have been a great week to get a tattoo.

Thats all I got, see ya.

Home again, home again...chinny chin chin...

2009-10-04T06:45:00.000-07:00

Got back from the Noll late last eve after saying cheers to the Oregon crew that had assembled in the dirt along the beach.

Got down there Thursday afternoon, North wind at 30 knots chasing me the whole way...
But I rolled up to 2-4 lowtide beachbreak with slight offshores and was in the water within minutes.
Had what seemed like 50 waves, really clean and lined up nicely, beautiful lefts from just West of the contest site.
Hooked up with Spike and Kendog, had dinner and hit the sack at 2030....zzzzzzzzzzz....
Woke up to junky 3' slop with the first SUP heat scheduled for 1000...but it got better with the tide and by almost heat time, it actually looked good, swell was at shoulder high by then and getting cleaner.
Wind turned a bit, suited up for a quick sesh on the log but after getting only two waves, I saw color in the water...Damn these well organized contests!
I ran in and grabbed the SUP, had a jersey tossed to me and in I went...right behind Noll hisself...lol.
Only had three waves in the heat but in the end, it was good enough for 7th.
But if I enter the SUP part next year, I will ride some bigger waves on my SUP first, it was shoulder high plus and I had never ridden anything on it bigger than waist high at best.

I sat and watched the final with Sean, Ken Wilson was doing a good job and we all thought he pulled it out for 1st...but you know how these things go.
Rhynn won, he did get a bunch of waves but...

The surf got better as the day went on, from 1400 on, it was as good as SH beachbreak gets. The Oregon kids were out till near darkthirty, the lefts were winders, some good for 100 yards. Friday was a great day for surf, best in a few weeks for me.
Went to sleep happy and very salt encrusted.
Yesterday morning was super clean on the rising tide...and even with 200 surfers on the beach, nary 1 in the water till the contest started at 0700.
I had a later heat so I surfed down the beach a bit in some really fun and lined up lefts and rights.
I didn't sign up till late so I was in the last of the cruiser heats...and since they will let any one with 45.00 enter..there was even a soft topper reppin' yo...wow.
A pink one.
I was the first outside and burned two decent waves till...
Yep, after not losing my board in any session over the last three weeks, I found myself on a collision course with a another guy in the heat...who was paddling for the face rather than the whitewater. I tried to flick the board up and out but that didn't work but I did keep the guy safe from 10' of longboard. In his defense, it was easy to get caught inside and get swept eastward, I know because my board ended up 50 yards past the flag.
Oh well, from then on, it was a scramble to get back outside. I got one more wave and my fourth would have been a sweet left but I buried the nose when I turned for the take off and it went by me.
4th in the heat left me free for the day.
Oh well.
And before I get called a dumbass for not wearing a leash, understand, ya gotta surf like ya surf.
And for me, that means leashless and stoned.
(to be truthful though, I bought a leash on the way down...but...)

Overall, it was a good experience. Brought back a lot of memories but I don't remember being so nervous and anxiety prone.
But I did break a streak as SB has always been a drive-by spot, I have never bothered surfing the place till Thursday but it does get good.

Well, that's my wrap up, it was great to see so many Oregonians, Lars (who I bought this house from), his bro Ollie, Spike, Nolan (nuts), Sean and others who get hazy in all of the dope smoke...lol...
And I got a couple of great t shirts...and some really crappy wax.

See ya.

Brrr.....

2009-09-30T09:00:00.000-07:00

About to have another go, water has chilled some no doubt, even wore my good booties yesterday.

In any case...
Thats the news, outta here till Monday I guess....
See ya.

Bad computer! Bad!

2009-09-29T18:30:00.000-07:00

Lost my 10 year old HP...
Now I have to set this one up.
Some surf, some where, not here really.
Thats all I got...and a headache...
I dislike computers...

That time of year...

2009-09-23T08:15:00.000-07:00

When Oregon becomes a surfers paradise...
Sort of.
Big tide swings, swells out of nowhere, warm water in the morning, cold in the afternoon...

Its been epic or near epic 'round these southern parts.

Love it.

I have the first lam down on my longboard, have a ways to go on the other three, a SUP order is in so I am making up a custom blank for it (I don't have anything 29" wide so...I got to make one).

A few days a go, I clicked on something while out in the water.
I was taking off on the second wave of the set, the first wave clipped its surfer and left him right in the line I needed to make the wave...I had a choice, pull back and let it go just in case something happened and I kooked it and ran in to the guy or make eye contact, indicate my line and let him adjust to it.
Thats what I like about being in the water with seasoned surfers, they know what to do.
We looked at each other, I popped up, stalled, a little fade to the left, he had time to regroup and paddle for the shoulder, I made the wave with grace and every one was happy.
But how many times do we see the opposite happen? Guys who paddle into your line or worse, ditch their board as you go by?
Yuck.
So happy I don't see it here.

I was SUP'pin the other day in some really weak shit, 8" to 10" inches at the peak...really.
Anyway, this tourist kid from Oklahoma is swimming sans suit or common sense, his folks were on the beach taking pics of all the pretty we have here. I paddled over to the kid, ditched my paddle and asked him if he wanted to surf...
"Oh HELL YEAH!"
So I stuck him on the SUP and pushed him into a few waves while his parents took his picture.
He is so going to get some when he gets back to Big Cabin, Oklahoma...
His parents were as happy as he was.
Share the stoke.
I didn't miss a thing.

Well, thats all I got.
Life is good.
Might be waves.
See ya.

Outta here...

2009-09-19T05:16:00.000-07:00

The surf, it calls...
Packed and racked, soon to be en route to a spot that is still a rumor at this point (nice pun, kook!) but sources say...that its worth the trip and hike.

Speaking of blowing up secrets, I hear there are mutterings about a certain area to the North becoming exposed...cuz terms like 'uniformed young men', come on...
Let it because its wide open and if every surfer and his house dress wearing girlfriend from Portland can find it, it ain't a secret.
And the only locals there wear fur coats.
And its just as fickle as the rest of the Coast up here.

Which leads some how to...
If you have to use a rope to get to your spot...
Along with a set of snippers for the brush...
See bear scat on the hike in...
Carry a sidearm in your board bag...
Have an EPIRB pocket on your Hotline...
Chances are you are on the right path to being a surfer type in Oregon.

It was a tough week, perfect surf for a few days, 2 hour windows at a spot that rewards only those with Good Karma.

Some little SF art hipster twit, you may know the type, "been to school for a year or two and knows he has seen it all", he even told me to 'educate' myself (never mind that I have been surfing longer than he has been alive, I couldn't possibly know what I am talking about)...while talking about surfboard designs...yeah, tough week.
And look for Larmo in the sky because he is mind surfing Oregon.
Maybe it was Larmo who sanded some one's shoes...

A few days ago, I got to surf alone for a few hours, perfect little waves, offshore winds and sunny. The water was so clear, you could count the starfish on the rocks below as you surfed the wave...some one else got it the next day and mentioned the same thing, I don't know why I find this so cool but it is for some reason.

Anyway, third cup has kicked in, time to go in search of...

See ya and have a good weekend...

Newest member of the family...

And even chickens pick on my boards...

Here and gone...

2009-09-18T19:28:00.000-07:00

Great week for surf, been busy with two sessions a day, SUP time, super session alone yesterday in 4' perfection...never better.
Hanging out but not this weekend, sorta but traveling closer to home with the option...what?Means I am surfing a super secret getaway, if its good, I will stay there, if not so good, home again, home again...
See ya.

Quack...

2009-09-17T19:35:00.000-07:00

Sometimes, its just as much fun...

2009-09-15T18:31:00.000-07:00

...to sit and watch.
Sort of some surf today, not quite good enough to paddle but close. Thats the deal when you live on the Coast, you can take it or leave it some days.
Today, just didn't really care. Sun was out, warm on the beach, friends about, talk boards, life, 'surf' hipster art fucks, posers, boards that are a waste of money and other sundry topics.

Some of you may note that little widget over there on the right, you might, given the time of day or night, notice a proliferation of incoming visitors from Portland...
lol.
I'm gonna drop the widget in a few days but a buddy didn't believe me when I told him I get more hits from a city 90 miles from the nearest wave than anywhere else in Oregon.
Maybe they know something up there that I don't.
Nah.

Tomorrow is a surf day regardless, my shoulder is healed up or close enough anyway, I am core, ya know?

Also...
I will be sharing more stories and what not here in the future, hold your breath, k?
But with shaping being so slow and me not wanting to give out 'surf reports' or have this blog become yet another shitpig, seems I got to fill this page up with something.
I write perhaps 5k words a day, some here, mostly some where else.
I don't care to let retroshaper simply fade away...well maybe, just not anytime soon.

In other news, I have a few boards in for repair-none of my shapes mind you...
But some bad delams and stress cracks that need attention.
Delams are bad news, more boards break from having delams than you think.
After, um, educating myself...hello?
...a board with delams in the middle of the deck will spread any forces it encounters out to the rail...crack, broken board.
Fix your decks.

See ya.

Foam...resin...glass...fin...fins...

2009-09-14T05:23:00.000-07:00

Had B over last night for some final tweaking of his board, he is super stoked to have finally 'shaped' his own...wait till he is wrist deep in lam resin thats kicking faster than he would like and I will ask him again how much fun it is making your own surfboard.
Then I will ask him again when he finishes the third hour of sanding the hot coat...
If it was easy, every body would do it.
Hoping to get the shaping done on the WB Flyer today so maybe we can glass them both by the weekend. The board is my first quad set up, a design I don't believe in but I ain't the one riding it...
My special, two days only lightweight copy will be glassed then too, nothing special, in fact, I want to ride it a week and then park it, use it two days and then burn the fucker on the beach.
I will explain more later when the plan comes together...or I fall flat on my face...

There are three threads at sways right now about length and mini fish and Simmons influenced boards...
One interesting comment...

"Riding a board intended for weak surf that is several inches shorter than your good wave board makes little sense" (op's statement)

"Actually this sentence above makes no sense to me, if you could see the waves I get here except for the low pressures of winter and 10-20 typhoons (avg) a year you would begin thinking about fish n mini simmons if you like to surf anyway. It is difficult enough getting six feet+ of rail majestically up down n back around a 12-24 inch wave that curls for about three to four seconds."

I don't understand what the guy is saying...if you are trying to get waves that are 1' to 2' and have face for 4 seconds and in that 4 seconds you want to go "up down n back around', one might think that an early entry into the wave would help set you up for that 4 seconds of face. A little board will not give you that.
There is a comment about how smaller, tighter curved boards fit better in small waves, that I can get my feeble mind around. But you still have to get that flowing entry or start to pump the board as soon as your feet hit the deck.

Discussing board length or design on the innernets is always interesting...discussions at sways are for the most part civil...

Joe Roper (or some one impersonating him) chimed in on Sissy's post about his new 4'11"...after reading my comment on the board and its suitability in Oregon.
Not wanting to trash sissie blog, let me pick this posters comment apart...
I mentioned Larry Mabile doesn't surf in Oregon-I stated this because I feel its important that a shaper know the conditions the board he is custom shaping will be used in. A bit backhanded I know, I mean who comes to Oregon to surf?
Here is the comment...(italics are his words)

"Larmo does surf Oregon just not in person"
Yeah, and I do Salma all day, everyday just not in person.

"and to say a board lacking specific details like hull, flat tail rocker, S deck, etcetera means it is not a Simmons influenced design but something else entirely seems silly."
Um, if it doesn't have any of those things then its getting pretty far fetched to say its even related to a mini Simmons influenced surfboard.
Oh, Simmons built surfboards, the White Pony is a surfboard, I get it.
I chalk this up to marketing. I am well aware of the need to sell more surfboards, every board is the next big thing, trust me, you need this new board design if you want to rip.
I use this line all the time.
Doesn't work for me.

"Influences affect aspects but don't rule design necessarily, Retro said himself that many Simmons "influenced I presume" hulls have moved on to a different fin base."

I did the half moon fins on three of my mini's and the Paipo, they work ok till it gets steep and/or HH, then they tend to skip and lose drive. After talking to Palandrani at length and seeing what Ace, Ryan (P38) and others were doing, I left the half moon behind and went with another template and material. The difference is apparent in hold and drive, apples to better apples. What rules design is progression.
The four I have shaped using the new template fins are faster and exhibit more hold in steep waves. Kane Garden produced some of the best retro fishes out there, not one has half moons.

Later, a classic troll post...

"You are typing but not saying anything,
Become more educated, rant less."

And you are reading but not comprehending my friend.
My comment was no rant, you want a rant, you should see my political blog.
I admit I hate this kind of comment. Just a classic case of teh stoopid.

"This board is not low volume."

A 4'11" is low volume, period. At that length, it can't be anything else.
Its little.

"I am not too old...my board is shorter than I am" Sickdog.

Thats from the sways thread.
Now, about 9 months ago, I started going shorter on my personal boards and I will admit that it crossed my mind many times that I was only going shorter to prove I still had it. I was out one day with a guy I surf with a lot. He paddled over and told me "I didn't know you rode shortboards".
Actually, I hadn't bothered with anything shorter than 7'10" for 10 years.
Older surfers tend to go longer to make up for the skills we lose to age and responsibilities.
I know I did.
I have always had a longboard in the quiver from day one but they were never my go to unless it was small.
I am back to that approach now, the right board for the conditions in front of me.

Well, I am going to let it go, I wasn't meaning to pass any sort of judgment on sissies new board, good for him I think and I am sorry if any one misconstrued my comments
on it design and length.
Information sharing is good though, regardless of the pissy people.
Now, I have to go educate myself though it may be too late...lol.

Oh, one more thing...
Surfboards are addicting...I get the whole quiver thing even if it doesn't fit in with my ideals of less is more.

See ya.

Proned Starfish...

2009-09-13T09:48:00.000-07:00

Man, I am sore today, I took off late on a bomb last night and instead of popping up, I stayed down till the explosion and then rode it out on my belly...only to pearl rather hard and get washed up. I didn't think much of it, just a blown drop...but man, I got rubbed. My shoulders and back got wrenched I guess...thank goodness for the spa.
I needed a bit more foam last evening but thats a whole 'nother post...

Stella did some wacking yesterday at Aurora's b-day...
The chickens ate an apple...again...
And the Bunny is just chill...
Motherfucker has it made...go on, hate me...lol!
See ya kids...

Oh, one down...9'0" by 22.5", 3" thick, pintail, 17"n,15"t, flat to belly to slight v, 60/40 all the way to semi tucked at 24"...single cuz side bites* are for sissies.

*not really, use them if you need to.

Boom

2009-09-12T20:42:00.000-07:00

Yep, it was good.
Tired.
Sore.
Lots of steep drops including one very late take off that had all the makings of a TOAD.
Heavy currents and wash, some bump but if you know the place, some very good waves.
Right Mr. Cranberry?
I pulled a 'Blue Crush' on my buddy, told him to not be afraid, just "paddle into the pit man..."
He scored, almost ran me over once.
So...HH, a little bump, four out...for two hours.

Crash.
Boom.
See ya.

New egg shapes

2009-09-12T10:55:00.000-07:00

Here is Stella showing off our newest egg shapes, one big'un, one little'un...
Of course, I broke them both...
Yep, double yoker, might be a twin fin...
One of our chickens lays a bomber every other day...
This is this morning haul, three leftover from last night and six this morning.
Hmmm...eggs.

"We shouldn't be laughing..."

2009-09-12T07:12:00.000-07:00

Three of us got together last night after putting our respective kids, spouses and critters to bed. Had a few puffs and hit the shed to outline three boards for shaping later today today.
We outlined a 'fast' quad pin at 6'10" for a heavy local break, a 9'0" Bing shape for me and a mini Simmons at 5'8" for a local kid who weighs all of 120 lbs.
While toking the last of the home made hash under the apple tree, I brought up the recent purchase by a surfer up in Portland, the 4'11" by 22" something fish thing, I asked if anyone had ever ridden anything so small.
No.
Now, I rode a Source Scrambler at 5'2", EPS, back in April while in SC, in fast and lined up semi-point HH surf. The board was way too small for me, I could flick it and do kick turns at will, pop the fins out and spin it around in circles till I threw up. That board was 23 wide and a hull, 50/50 to 60/40 rails, hard bladed out of the tail. It caught waves ok, a little late but then again, I weigh out at 165. The only real beef I had with the board was paddling back to the line up....I was swimming the thing more than paddling it.
B related a single he rode from Schroff back in the day, 5'5" by maybe 22", he recalled the board loved to turn but paddling was a joke, too little foam for the paddle back out and positioning in the crowded line ups of North County.
My other buddy is one of those guys, like so many up here, that ride only longboards because of the longer paddles we have locally. Never steps to the nose or surfs it in any traditional way, just rides boards longer to get waves and then tries to hustle the 9'6" around like a shorter board. He will never step down to something shorter, in his mind and for his style of surfing, longer is better.
I agree. No way would he have fun on a 6'6" Simmons, he would not get any waves.
Most of us in Oregon know this type of surfer, recreational, won't paddle out if its under 2' or over 6'. Its another way of doing it I guess but I cringe when I see perfect set ups for ten overs and the surfer is stuck in the middle of the board trying to pump it down the line.
With a leash flapping behind him.
Now, I throw my 10' around a bit, been known to bury 8' of rail on it but then again, I have been riding logs since 1967, when that was all that was around. If you wanted to turn one, you learned the technique or fell trying. I have taken a 9'6" vertical and got it back around but that was way back in '03, lol...to old to do it now.
R is a decent surfer, rides a 7'10" most of the time, has no problems surfing it how he wants to surf it. And we all agreed that that was key.
Before you shape or buy a board, ask yourself, what do you want to do on the waves you get?
Most guys under 30 want to rip and slash, take what they do on a skateboard and do the same things while surfing.
I totally get this. I am bumping 50 and skate Myrtle Point, carving, kick turns, lip slides (not an air guy). But when I ride my 6'0" in clean surf, I am more into driving turns with speed and deep positioning in the pocket. I want to go fast. Hit the lip? Sure thing, as long as I am coming out of a full rail bottom turn at speed.
Double pumps don't count.
Carve hard into a roundhouse, full rail cutback? Hell yeah, especially at speed where halfway through the cutback, you feel the fins tweaking and your thighs max out, ready to un-weight for the rebound.
Full compression.
So we all agreed that we should all ride boards that are designed for the style of surfing the individual wants to do.

But the next issue was conditions....

Which leads back to the longer is better syndrome, especially here in Oregon.

Our local beachie has about a 200 yard paddle out on a 4' day, thats to get to the line up.
None of us three would bother with a board under 6'0" for that. Staying in position alone would take lots of time and energy, never mind the paddle back out after getting a wave. I occasionally ride my Orangecicle in those conditions, its nice to be able to duck dive but in the end, I get far fewer waves because of the 10 minute swim/paddle back out ( the other locals don't miss me, lol).
Its all a compromise.

How do you want to surf?

Where do you surf?

How often do you surf?

What's the wave like 90 percent of the time?

What are your abilities now?

Those questions answered honestly will lead to the perfect one board quiver.
Right.
I live ten minutes from the beach and still carry two boards at all times.

So we all passed a lighthearted judgment on a 4'11" in Oregon surf, not for us nor most adults we know.
More foam is not a sin, either is less.
Every board is just another way of doing it, surfing I mean.

True, there are rippers out there riding sub 5'0"'s, hell, there are guys riding wooden planks that are 6' long and 16" wide and having fun.

But none of them live and surf on the Oregon Coast.

There may be one guy in Portland though...(luv ya Sissy)

Well, pictures today of our shaping progress on the boards we cut out last night, B has his first date with a planer at 10 am, I will let him skin the blank before pulling the cord...power tools are dangerous ya know.

And if he fucks up, look for a 4'11" for sale here...lol.

See ya in the water.

Boutique...

2009-09-11T15:19:00.000-07:00

Its not just for skaters any more.

I spent the morning working with a buddy, hard ass grunt work pulling ivy and shoveling mulch. I do this about every Friday, keeps my core strength up and makes me remember how it feels to get blisters and splinters. I like dirty work.
But now, I am sun stroked, it was at least 80 up the river, no place for a coastal local.
I took a cold shower and sat out under my apple tree for a bit, pondering surfboards and shaping.
In the last year, my personal boards have gone from all longboards to one log and two hulls at 6'0" and 6'10". I want to do a gunnier board for winter but need to replace the triple 10' first, I need a board done by the 1st of October.
I guess I could hit Shelter and cough up 990.00 for the latest shape that promises to make me Tudor.
Or I could whip out a blank and just do it myself.
For 150.00.
No waiting.
Except for the resin to kick.
And it won't make me Tudor.

Promise.

There is some surf at the moment, I got the heads up an hour ago but Stella is home from school and Crystal is deep in Bridge, Oregon.

Oh well, always tomorrow.
Maybe I should get started on a new board.
Yeah, think I will.
As soon as it cools down.

See ya.

Got some...

2009-09-11T05:53:00.000-07:00

Excellent beachbreak two days in a row, yesterday was an 'almost' but got stoned instead on some good hash we made.
Now I am out of the water for the next four days, Crystal is off to Belly Dance Camp and Stella and I are heading a little south for some camping.
Like south of my back door.
Stella started 1st grade this week and for the first time in six years, I have free time.
I know, I don't work or do much else but shape, surf and chase chickens but with Crystal and I despising day care, one of us has always been home with Stella.
Now, she leaves at 8am and is home at 3pm.
Geez, its weird not having that responsibility.
So with all of this free time...right.
Chickens...love them, 6 eggs a day right now, neighbors are happy and I discovered that chickens do make good pets. Stella and I were laying in the back yard at dusk last night waiting for the bats to show, we had 5 chickens gathered around our feet, roosting.

Well, thats the news from Rancho De Pollo...
Have a good weekend, see ya.

WTF?

2009-09-07T08:17:00.000-07:00

As fast as the swell came up, it went down...
Was hoping to score some early morning leftovers so I hit it at darkthirty, only instead of climbing into a cold, wet wetsuit, I got to sit and watch the swell drop by the minute...
Oh well, my hot tub is hot so there is that.

This is my first winter having a hot tub spa thing, I could get used to this...
But the wife is already whining about the sand in it, hey, thats what the filter is for!

Had a couchsurfer here last night too, a guy from BC who is riding down to SD on his bicycle. He was up and rolling at 0500, looking at Brookings by this evening, a 120 mile day!
Yikes!
For those on the cheap travel tip, couchsurfing.com is a great way to travel and meet people, find alternatives to camping/hotels and otherwise contribute to the growing Socialism that is sweeping our Country...lol.

Well, I gots nuthin' else...
See ya.

Uh, yeah. Got a little...

2009-09-06T20:11:00.000-07:00

And I mean little...

Swell came up 6' in three hours, buoys at 13', wind at 25 knots from the southwest, just perfect...

Beats nothing.
See ya.

oh, 9'4" by 30". 26" and 18", 4 3/4", single

And we are back....

2009-09-05T06:50:00.000-07:00

Sorry kids, wanted to share some surf info with just a few people and this was the best place to do it.
Real secret agent type stuff so if I let every one in on it, well....you know.
(the post is gone, relax SoOr/NorCal'ers)

In other news, its raining and has been since 0200.
Yay.
South wind at 8 knots due to gust to 20 tonight.
More yay.
10' plus by tonight.
Yay.
But....there will be waves today for me.

Any guesses as to how this turned out?

After my Big Wave Sissy post, my Father related two stories to me...
I didn't recall getting rescued by him when I was 9, after getting worked at what was then Salt Creek. (I guess it still is)
Busted ear drum, two broken teeth and a broken nose.
I didn't remember getting swept through the old wooden Topanga lifeguard tower during a major swell when I was 11, broke my ankle, nose again and two fingers.
(I think I should have quit surfing a long time ago)

He also mentioned an old timer he used to surf with who was one of the Pioneers at the Ranch.
Dad said the guy carried punching bag balloons and when he lost his board, he would blow a balloon up and use it to float in.
Scared of drowning.
Ok.
Drowning isn't my worry, its the beating that gets you to that point that I don't care for.

I did board repair yesterday, the 10' had some delam on the rear deck so I fixed that up. I also found pressure dings...in front of the comp line.
Lol.
We did a friends dings at the same time and he asked why I ride such a beat up board when I should be riding a badass resin tinted, wood tailblocked deluxe cruiser, entirely hand shaped and glassed by me.
Um, because I don't have to? When the 10' finally goes, maybe then but for now, I have what I need.
I find no pride in possessions.
Skills, yes.
Ain't one of those surfers with ten boards in the garage, still just 3 in rotation plus a boogie.

Not dissing those with 'board whore syndrome', thats another way of doing it.
Just not for me.

In other news, I gots none, go on about your weekend kids, have fun, be kind.
See ya.

Making the most of it...

2009-09-03T07:13:00.000-07:00

Had a blast yesterday surfing a local beach break, yeah it was smaller than every where else but shape is way more important than size-to me anyway.
What good is 6' with no where to go?
Besides, I am scared of big waves.
No, really.
Once it gets 8' plus without a channel, I am done.
Gun shy.
Before you start poking fun, get yourself nearly drowned a few times and get back to me.
Mother Ocean has had me in her grasp more than a few times, caught inside or swept out to sea. And after the third time, I realized that I would rather live to surf another day than risk it all for a bit of glory.
I went over the falls once at Uppers, big day, just huge. I was maybe 16 and misjudged the take off by a few seconds. I was not prepared for the beating I took, my board hit me, I bounced off the bottom, came up again only to get drug another 50 yards under water.
Then the next wave clipped me and one more after that.
I got out and counted the stars circling my head and swore to always surf smarter than I did that day.
A few years later I was at Rincon during an epic and well overhead swell.
It was 10' plus and there were 12 to 15 wave sets rolling through.
I burned maybe six waves before getting a huge screamer into the Cove. I went out over the back and saw another 10 waves coming. The first two I made it over, the next ten pushed me southward a 1/4 mile, up against the highway.
Seeing I was not going to get back outside, I pulled the leash and started swimming (along with two other surfers) towards the oil pier. We all washed through the pier and swam in through some horrendous shorebreak.
It was a long walk back to the upper lot...and I was shaking the whole way.
But being that close to losing it all instilled a fear in me of big waves.
Big being anything over 8' without a channel to hide in.
I have surfed Sunset at 15' Hawaiian (I thought it was 50') and had fun.
I have surfed a local beachbreak at 6' and was scared shitless.
Its all relative I guess.
Just call me a small wave specialist...lol.

Anyway, last weekend of summer coming up...and Stella is going to school full time this year...meaning I have between 8am and 3pm, 5 days a week free.
Made it.
And its our season for good surf.
Fortunate one, yes?

Well, got to get the wifes' lunch made and get the various critters fed.
See ya.

Nice long weekend...

2009-09-01T09:12:00.000-07:00

Had two great sessions at the spot That Will Not Be Named although I did bust a fin up again....8' drop into a heavy kelp bed equals one loose fin.
I stayed out anyway, the board was wiggly but the damage was already done.
Had it mostly uncrowded though a few stragglers showed up only to hear "I am glad you weren't here an hour ago..."

Thats me, all ten over...can ya tell? Me neither, looks like seaweed to me....

Stella has her farm going...
One parakeet
One Mini Rex
Two Panda Hamsters
8 chickens
4 cats
One fat dog
And we are looking for a goat...
Crystal says no more critters but since when do we listen to her?

Also scored a Sundance Spa for free off of CL...90.00 in wiring and we were soaking by 5 pm Sunday...it sold for 4800.00 new in 2003.

Octoberfish, a benefit for the foodbank has been canceled this year...sucks because I was going to build a board for the raffle.

I was recently asked to help start up a band...a gypsy kind of Cabaret thing...but I opted out after one get together, I don't like being stuck on one instrument and would rather play my flutes or mandolin these days.
But I might look into getting a band together for a winter type project.
Maybe not.

Well, some surf today for me later with any luck.
Um...thats it I guess.

Be kind.

See ya.

Swimming

2009-08-27T07:00:00.000-07:00

Had a good swim yesterday after thinking the shorebreak was a good place to surf...outside was 8' plus but the inside bar was pretty good I thought.
I hit it and was having fun till I ducked into a sand pit and was blasted off my board.
I came up and my board was no where to be seen...hmmm, not where it should be...is it over there in the end of the rip? Nope.
Next to the rocks? Nope.
Heading back out to sea? Nope.
So I started swimming in but I was going more southward than towards the beach, no worries...big finger of rocks that way and I could climb up and out...but where is my damn board?
I finally got to the rocks, climbed up and took another look for an orange 6' board.
Nope. Still don't see it.
I got off the rocks and started walking North, just in case the rip doubled back on itself, outside was a churning mess so it made as much sense as anything.
There it is...75 yards out and heading for Japan.
Fuck.
I ran out along the rocks, jumped off and started to swim for it...
20 minutes later...I am paddling in, almost to the shorebreak again...I picked off a peak, popped up and was tossed over the falls, too tired from the swim to get up quick enough for the drop...
There goes the board again.
I caught it quickly this time and bellied in.
Let this be a lesson, low rockered boards are hard to find in the foamy rips...
To the tourist who thought this was an every day thing, no, it wasn't, given the conditions, I was pretty close to letting the board go on its way...

Not having enough abuse, I did the SUP thing for three hours waiting for the tide to come up but the mysto I was waiting for never got it together enough to surf.

Met some dipshit tourist surfer from Eugene, he and his girl cruising their white VW Westy, boards on top, the full on long haired organic wanker scene...they parked next my VW tin top, maybe they thought I was some organic, co-op shopping hippie dippy surfer type?
After he named four local spots that he knew nothing about-I had heard enough..."Go home or go somewhere else..."
"But..."
"See ya..."

While I can appreciate tourist types-I am one after all, traveling as much as I do, there is no way you will catch me in NorCal or SoOr, standing on the beach next to a local and naming all of the local spots in the area.
Etiquette is good.
Keeping your mouth shut when traveling is even better.
Especially when you are sporting a day-glo green board on your racks...lol.
Patchouli reeking douches...

I have a full couple of days coming now so no surf for me, conditions are going southwind and ugly anyway.
Bike trip is put off because Crystal is dancing in Eugene (she won't name spots, I promise) Saturday and that leaves me with Stella for the weekend, no worries, her and I will head south anyway for a mini camp trip (where I won't name spots), perhaps the last for the Summer...
Bummer.
But make it last, eh?

I have a two week celebration coming Saturday too...
A middle finger to the tobacco companies...now, if I can get my wife to quit...
Two weeks smoke free.
I have to say I feel so much better, more energy, less stress, I don't stink as much (I rarely shower) so all in all, while it was hard (harder to kick than heroin), I am loving it. In the end, it was as much about my health as it was about money and Stella, she was a driving force in my efforts. She gave me more then enough inspiration to quit, she even got to use those words she doesn't get to use..."Put that fucking cigarette down!"

Well, thats the news, time to chase some chickens...
See ya and have a great weekend.

Maybe...

2009-08-25T20:04:00.001-07:00

Small...

2009-08-25T07:52:00.000-07:00

And it was hardly worth it but what are you going to do?
I paddled out for all of an hour, good to get wet I guess but damn, I need some good surf.
I sold off my too small single hull and now have the dough to finish off my new longboard, pics later with any luck...

I need a wheelbarrow...M?
lols..

Planning another trip south by bike this coming weekend, leave Saturday and head to Brookings or further...we will see.
I might go sans board and try for a few 100 mile days, like those crazy Italians that bike our Coast...I met a few, nuts is what they are.

Anyway, aside from chasing chickens, thats the news from Rancho de Costa Lotta...
See ya.

Design

2009-08-22T06:33:00.000-07:00

Just got back from the check, its crap...
Up since dark thirty going over quad designs...
For some reason, the hype got to a guy who wants me to shape a board for him.
"Head high and up, super hollow waves, paddle really well and go fast with great feedback. A quad finned super deluxe please..."
Quad...will not paddle well with all of that drag from those fins.
Head high and up, super hollow...you do not need speed for that wave, you need control.
Feedback?
I think he means control.
Ok, I can build a quad fin, you want it to flat paddle well so the rocker is going to be flatter...but then you will nose dive much more often.
Control and feedback...simpler is better, four fins ain't simple.
So what this guy wants is a bucket full of compromises.
No board is going to do it all at in our conditions.
Not my beloved planing hulls, not some stocker from CI.
Another case of the next big thing.
Oh well, there is no explaining board design to those who are caught up in the hype.

But it does mean that I am shaping once again.
Yay!
That means the blog has a purpose again, aside from my incessant habit of talking out loud.

Well, breaking out the templates for the quad-did I mention its going be up near 7'0"
WTF?

There is no pride in breaking boards...it usually means that you put yourself in a position to get hammered.
There are exceptions of course.
I have broken a few in my day.
Inside rock at Rincon.
My head at Uppers.
Free fall down 8' of face locally...(see bold above).
Lols.

Well, need some water time so I am going to load up the SUP for the first time in months and get some workout in...
See ya and have a good weekend.

Familiar bed...

2009-08-19T07:08:00.000-07:00

...not so great actually...
Miss the road but Summer is not over, no no, Indian Summer is on its way, less wind, promise of swell...and still some gas money left.
Unless I bike it again.
But the trouble with bike touring with board/gear is the distance between 'spots'. Yes, there are mysto spots, today-only specials out there but the SoOr/NorCal Coast is not like any where else.
There can be 30 miles between beaches, let alone spots.
But its a good way to go if you have the time.
I figure ten days from my house to Santa Cruz, if you like climbs anyway.
And I love climbs. The pacing, the resolution to top the hill.
Cape Sebastian did kick my ass though, pushed the middle third...lol.

My previous trip by bike, the trailer weighed out at 45 lbs., this trip it topped 30 lbs. and I could probably lose another 5 if I cut out some of the tub.
I think using the board as a chassis is the better way to go.
A mule thing maybe.
I took the 6'0", a 3/2 and booties, no towel, sleeping bag as board bag, 1 quart of water, stove, propane, 1 quart pot, coffee, 3 pairs of socks, one warm windbreaker, 2 shirts (one to wear), cycle shorts and nylon quick dry shorts to go over them.
Tools and two new tubes.
And thats it.
Oh, gumdrops.
No food because why carry what you can buy on the way? No dishes or cups because an empty can of spaghettio's makes a great coffee cup in the morning.
I use the 'no cleaning' method for cooking.
Place tortilla in bottom of pan, place chili or beans or whatever on tortilla, heat, fold and eat. If you are careful, you will leave nothing in the pan.
And have no clean up.
For coffee, put water and coffee in the pot, stir, go to sleep, wake up and heat. Most of the grounds will have sunk, you get a great yield and if you are lucky, some fiber...
Simple is always best.
I guess I aspire to be a dirtbag tourist type someday.
Like beating the system with my crafty cheapness.

Anyway, just thinking outloud.
Hoping to surf today, going to ~~kill~~ harvest a rooster...
And catch up on the house.
See ya.

Oh, aftermath of hitting a 4" branch on the roadway...up and over the bars...but not so bad the next day.$100,000 worth of boats for a $12.00 fish...a little herb to quiet my laughter...View from the tallest bridge on the Coast of Oregon. Yes, there is a person in the water...Have a good day, see ya later this week...

Whew...

2009-08-18T18:59:00.000-07:00

No surf 'round here lately, meager at best so I loaded up and hit the trail, with only a hieroglyphic on a thread worn t-shirt to guide me.
I knew in my heart that if I looked for it...I would have my paradise...

First, I got the cats out of my trailer...Then I loaded it up...
Then I went South because that just made more sense, how could this perfect spot be North of me? I saw some carnage, the mangled debris left by others foolish enough to try...
Nope, close but it was flat...Pretty Sunset though....I was pooped so I slept here by the creek...no , not that creek...The next morning, up at the crack...This looked promising...but no...
Same with this spot...And this one...And this one...And this one, even stoned, not even close...
So I asked this little busy bee...after getting him buzzed of course...
"Dude, its way far from here, always epic and Bro-Love!, check out my shirt!"
And then he buzzed away...

This was the last spot I looked at...I was getting weary, seems I wasn't going to find the myth after all....Oh well, I put the shirt/map up on the Welcome to Cali sign with a note...
"If you find this epic spot, call me!"
But even that won't help because I left my phone...here...right after calling the wife to let her know I had failed...End of the trail, no way could I venture in to Lotus Land...

And thats what I did since Sunday at 2 pm.
I am now safely at home due to some Karma from Nunzio.
Nunzio is one of our beloved Coos Bay type locals, or was...
I saw him going North Sunday afternoon and he flipped around. He asked where I was heading to. I showed him the shirt. He is one of the teachers axed due to budget cuts but he found a job in Brookings and was going back and forth moving...hmmm, I said, when you going down again?
He was down there today, I helped him unload his trailer and he loaded me up and gave me a ride home...

Miles...130
Waves...zip.
Money...3.17
Flats...zip
Wrecks...1

And what have you been doing?

Summer....

2009-08-16T06:24:00.000-07:00

Just another good day...as good as a day gets with zero surf involved anyway...
Wind was 30 knots by 10 am yesterday so...
We went and did the Seafood Fest...which was good because Crystal and her dance troupe, Fatinah Maysaa were scheduled to perform at 3.

Then we went up the river for Shannon and Seth's 1 year anniversary...
We were there the night before too but the pics didn't work...or I didn't work or something...I am pretty sure Wolfgang 'shroomed me with his Tequila flask with extra added ingredients...

Stella loves costumes and face painting...

And new friends to play 'horsey' with...( I was sooo the fastest horse against these 7 year olds! )

A little time in the middle of the MIllacoma...

And then, after eating 2 lbs of BBQ tuna at the Seafood Fest...Seth forced me I tell ya! To eat more...

Yep, no surf, no shaping...but....Summer anyway.

And for those who need help posting...get a muse!
(he is why I am so cocky...get it? Huh?)

Of course, I would have rather been doing this....

I leave for a bike trip later today, so see ya in a week I think.

Take care kiddies...

Oh, a quick shout out to Dale Inskeep and his band, you guys are really good...for Country!

Karma fins, saws, chickens and pedals....

2009-08-15T10:15:00.000-07:00

Geez, will the Karma circle ever end?
We got 8 more hens for free this week, all about 5 months old, all laying already (7 eggs yesterday), my wife better watch it-she is deathly allergic to egg protein...lol...
I loaned a set of clipless pedals to a guy in real need, asked on the blog if any one had a set to trade for a blank...instead I get gifted a better set than I loaned him! They came in the mail this morning and are already mounted up...sweet, brand new and super deluxe!...thanks M, so sweet of you to do that. I will give him the choice of keeping mine or using this set you sent....

And Stella's shirt says it all...(joking kids)
Another surf buddy is moving south and called to see if I wanted his old tools...
Craftsman radial arm saw for free, etc...oh yeah! I can use them!

Now...if I could just get some Karma surf....
Take it easy Kids, have a great Saturday!

Perfect

2009-08-12T14:02:00.000-07:00

My ideal.
2' and Sunny, alone.
Waves breaking over a shallow sandbar, peeling peaks, playful.
Left, right, even straight because I am that good.
Lol.
No really, it was super fun to get a few on the log, really nice out today with a pleasant offshore blowing. Had two hours to myself, love it.
See ya.

Barter?

2009-08-12T07:19:00.000-07:00

I need a set of clipless, SPD's or similar...
Trade ya 9'2" blank for a set in decent condition....
email or call
541 260 3320

Fog...

2009-08-12T06:34:00.000-07:00

Oh the drama of living at the Coast...
Looked good in the afternoon yesterday but I was a bit late on the take.
Had a few shorepounders in the middle while some longboarders had their way North of me.
Then the fog rolled in, couldn't see the beach even from the shorebreak I was riding...
I got to ride the Orangecicle, fixed the busted out fin yesterday, not much is more fun that shorepound cover ups on a little board.
There was a ruffle on sways yesterday about board thicknesses, some one posted that 2.75 is too thick for a retro fish and was promptly shouted down.
I haven't shaped a board that was too thick yet but a log I made for one guy was at 3.5, of course he weighs out at 260 so its all relative.
I rode the board and its was fine, not corky but I was careful to thin the rails out, if you go that thick, it becomes harder to sink the rail and that creates some tracking issues.
In my humble opinion...

I am going to have a 6'8" Hull for sale in a week, I missed the numbers for myself in volume, the board is more suited for a surfer at 140 lbs. than 170 lbs...oops.
Its the Palandrani template from the mint green hull I did for a local, the board worked so smoothly for him that I had to have one.
And no Loren, it won't work for you....
Look for pics this weekend after I ride it again to be sure.

Some ranting out there about what a piss poor Summer its been. Foggy, windy, small...wait, thats not piss poor, its typical Oregon...in the Summer.
But the Salad days are coming...last year was the best Fall I have had here, with clean conditions and, while small, good consistent swell. Our beachies can't handle the bigger stuff so there you are.

My wife is sponsoring me for the Noll this year.
Yep, going to do a contest.
Mostly to touch bases with other shapers in SoOr and Norcal but also to see what all the fuss is about.
Wish me luck...lol.

I left out Gato yesterday in the house pics, he was pretty pissed so...here he is...
Making applesauce today with Stella, I have a new foodmill and I borrowed a canner ( I was doing tuna this weekend anyway), Stella loves applesauce and with over 300 lbs. hanging on the tree, better do something with them.

Anyway, thats the news from Rancho de Retro, have a surfy type day.
See ya....

House...

2009-08-11T11:16:00.000-07:00

More or less, some fruit , an apple tree from hell, Crystals' Playhouse which should have been my glassing room...but she talked me out of it as only a woman can...I will build my shed in the next week or two...
a few cats, one fat dog...
My cold frame in the front yard for our greens through the winter, backyard view towards the house, blah blah blah...and my very crowded garage...
Huge lot but it was empty for three months and the weeds and dryness took over.
I'm now about 10 minutes from the beach, out of the fog and mist but close enough to just wander over and check it.
I like it, its a ten year house, get the garden in tight, a few updates to the house itself and we are good to go.
Dead end gravel road with two other homes on it...nice...its rural but 5 minutes from town...by bike!

And one very busted fin....
Which I fixed today....
See ya.

Not much, you?

2009-08-11T06:42:00.000-07:00

Been a slow week here at Campo De Cost Alotta...
Had a great weekend, no surf mind you but surf isn't everything...
I did have a look once...but nope, nothing doing in the dribblers.

Some Jew-fro wearing skinny white fuck did try to run up on me while checking the surf...

I heard a funny story...
A loooongtime local whom I respect dearly, once chased Whitless with a crescent wrench. I don't know why but I can imagine...
Anyway, what was interesting is this loooongtime local is the guy who is always getting after me for being late to the break..."Ya missed it, Kiddo..."
He leaves tide charts on my van....
Shapes his own blanks and boards, has a self-sufficient lifestyle, very green, has surfed here since the 1960's.
He has our spots wired up like only a surfer with 40 years here can.
Quite the Waterman and someone I look up too-I see myself as he when I am much older and grayer.
And, he knows an asshole kook when he sees one.
He and I have shared a few waves at the Mysto and other spots that most don't bother with, we once had a perfect right to ourselves for four hours, trading waves and his stories of old Coos and other nearby breaks.
He reminds me of my Father a bit but without the drama and cynicism.

Well, I am hoping to get two longboards shaped this week and glassed over the weekend, one Bing Lightweight for me and some kind of one off longboard for Spike
(you Kiwanda types might know Spike, he was up at your contest, his son is Ollie of Nelscott Reef fame, his other son is who I bought my current house from),
A local guy shaped a chined railed, ten finned, swallow tailed something or other and Spike wants one just like it.
Chine rails.
I had them on a custom Aipa Stinger way back when...work great on some designs.

Anyway, thats it from here, see ya...

Link list

2009-08-07T07:43:00.000-07:00

I just noticed it was missing...sorry...I will look for it or make a new one up....
Went searching last eve for surf, flat up here, odd because we never go flat...
Its raining anyway, who surfs in the rain?
Oh...we do.

Hung on the beach for a bit with a bro, nothing else to do, I love talking surfboards...
Out of here this evening for the Reggae Fest in the Valley, kid friendly, lots of great music, see ya there.
Have a great weekend!

Remember when surfing was fun?

2009-08-07T07:41:00.000-07:00

Ask and you shall receive...

2009-08-05T08:04:00.000-07:00

Surfed 'Impossibles' last evening because I like the place.
Its the best kind of mysto spot, all hairball and mostly TOAD.
It was mediocre at best but good for 20 yards of cover up and
hair washing.
Had to paddle in when I hit the reef with my inner fin on the Orangecicle.
I had lost the board on the second wave but swam fast enough to grab it before it
found the cliff face.
Not so lucky the second time.
The fin pulled hard and split in the middle, pulling the glass off between the fins a bit.
Easy fix but there is some sand in it I won't be able to get out.
Not bad enough to replace the board yet, maybe next time.

In other news and there is plenty...
I got my chickens yesterday! WooHoo!
And they are still alive this morning...which is good.
And I planted my seedlings for my cold frame, nothing like fresh greens through the winter.
I gave away a riding mower because I like the work out my push mower gives me.
Bet ya didn't know I like mowing lawns...
And vacuuming...
And straight lines.
Yeah.
Well, have to run, fin fixing, some planting and mulching.
Going to get pics of the house up too.
See ya and get some.

Of anything.

After fuming last night....

2009-08-04T06:49:00.001-07:00

And really getting worked up...
Hey, I aint from here, so don't judge me...
I called my Father.
My Father lives in Northern Baja, he is an old school prick, way worse than I could ever be.
We shared some stories about the old days at Topanga and Bay St., what localism was like back in the late 1960's, what it was like in the 1970's.
I left Cali for good in 1987 but by then I had a Dume key...

He and I use to zip tie leashes of other surfers together.
If someone dropped in on us, we broke off their fins.
If some one got mouthy in the water, I often saw my Father pull his fin out of the box and threaten to slash a guys neck with it...to this day, I don't use a fin bolt...lol.

Right Loren?

Anyway, I never saw the reason for all of that violence, it was just surf after all...let your skills and your commitment do the talking...

But there were some shitpigs who deserved the treatment.
I remember a certain val who had his car stolen and driven in to the creek.
Donny Wilson had his van set on fire up at third point.
After an NSSA contest in O'side one year, four of North County's finest surfers chased us halfway to Trestles because we had the nerve to come down and beat their school team at their home break.
I saw my own brother get his ass handed to him after snaking Sarlo.
Just recently I was told "You ain't sharing!" (by the same guy who Whitley was mouthing off to) and took it to heart-I was being greedy that day....

Rant off.

In other news, I got a Hitachi planer with the Clark mods...
Now I need to go break one of my boards so I can use it!
See ya kids...

Sweet....

2009-08-03T18:21:00.000-07:00

This is a bar of soap....
Badass....
Having shaped two like this one, I can tell that hours go into them, hours....

Hmmmm.....

2009-08-03T17:35:00.001-07:00

Well, look at this...seems someone is coming around to the shorter/fatter/wider deal...wonder why?
Oh, because the chip thing is dead.
He has too much rocker in the shape but otherwise, its on the right path.
I know, he is Shuler and I am a hack...but I ride these boards way more than he does and in my many conversations with Palandrani, I know what works.
Note how he talks about "planing", yeah, need a hull in the front third to get that 'feel' and fourth gear.
Trust me.

Board whores....no Loren, you are not yet a board whore.
I doubt you buy boards thinking they will make you better, more like the absolute junk surf you and I will paddle out in, that will make you better...

As to me, been laying low, getting my home in order, building cold frames, planning the additions, reggae fest coming up...
Haven't surfed in a few days and probably won't for a few more.
Life is like that.
Conditions have been rather poor anyway so while I am sure to be missing something...I am ok with it for now.
I am tripping off for two weeks again to SC as soon as the swell pattern for the end of the month looks good, even if its small I will still roll the dice because its the last blast of summer after all.
September is always good here anyway.

Well, thats it for me, see ya...
Off to bug the Surfsistah....

Surfed yesterday....

2009-07-31T06:12:00.000-07:00

Big whoop, didn't we all?
I caught three waves and then let the board go hang out on the beach, body surfed for an hour (water 49) and then strolled home.
Yeah, it was crap.
Tourist season is in full effect, the Valleys are hot, we are not.
Love to seem them show up in shorts when a nice down coat would be a better choice.

" So I want a quad set up with a swallow tail, chine rails from nose to tail, three inches thick, 22 wide, about 9'4"....for big waves..."
Right.
I call this surfer "Danger Boy" often, he is a charger but control isn't one of his strong points.
Just one of two inquiries I had yesterday.
I won't share the other one.

I used to restore pre-1934 guitars and sell them. One thing I came across often were players looking for that 'special tone', that one guitar that would have the guy playing like Ledbelly or Blind Lemon Jefferson in no time.
Never mind the 20 guitars the player already had, the next one was going to be the one to make up for the lack of practice or talent.
Tone man, I need tone!
I fed their habits because I liked the money.

Surfers do the same thing.
"The next board will make me Kelly!"
No, it won't.
Think about that the next time you are cruising the racks.

As to this blog, the above is what it will look like without me shaping any more, sorry but this is crap.

Yeah, sorry kids, I ain't into this.
We will be seeing ya around.
Take care.
Tony

In the mail...

2009-07-30T06:18:00.000-07:00

I had three requests for the twin fin planing hull dims, good to see others looking past the racks of white chips and "high performance" longboards...
I got them in the mail yesterday for you three, good luck and if you need a blank or two, fins, let me know.

I also got another email from the Spaghetti rider...he loves the board and surfs up north with it a bit. He describes the funny looks he and it gets till others see how well it works. I get the same 'looks'. They don't look like what every one else rides up here but in Santa Cruz, I have seen at least 10 in the water now.
Because the design works.
Mr. Spaghetti describes the ride perfectly, "fast" and fast equals more speed through turns, more sections made and that equals more stoke.

I have yet to hear of or see any other shapers up here doing these hulls or twins, thats surprising because I thought that most shapers have an open mind kind of thing going and if you have the skills and materials, why not experiment with new shapes?
I don't see why a shaper would limit his own boards to the standard chip or longboard.

In other news....
I started this blog to showcase my shaping and board building shit, its been a new adventure for me, I have been shaping and glassing for a whole 9 months now!
But since I have not bothered with shaping boards for sale or anything, I don't really have a need for this blog thing.
I have my quiver together (3 boards, two planing twins and my log) and while I am shaping out another log for myself, I won't be doing much else as far as shaping goes.

I don't want to do a 'surf' blog, there are plenty out there and I can't exploit my little part of the world in pictures.

So I don't a reason for this blog to be around much longer (thunderous applause).
So there you have it.

Well, I have another 2 hours of blackberry bush hacking to do, some surfing this pm with any luck.

Take care kids...and thanks for stopping by.

Twin fin planing hull

2009-07-29T08:51:00.000-07:00

One more thing before I go away....
I have been surfing the Orangecicle exclusively since I built it and I want to pass along some good info for those of you who have open minds and can actually surf.
I have been at this for more than 42 years, I have ridden every type of board under the Sun in that time, I am not the ripper I use to be but I do have some skills.
This new design that Palandrani came up with is by far the most versatile design I have ever ridden.
I have surfed it in 2' mush and OH hollow perfection.
Its very fast, its loose without being twitchy, it will hold a line and let you make sections with authority.
I have seen others ride it, loaned it out and they have given me feedback that mirrors my own experience.
I don't think its the end all-be all of surfboards but I do believe the design would suit many different styles and abilities.
Source has the originals, my boards are very close to what Nick shapes out.
If you get a chance to pick one up, do it, you won't be sorry.
I have the template, rocker and dims to share with any one who wants to shape their own, the only caveat is you have to start with a longer blank ( at least an 8'0" for a 5'8") to get the rocker numbers the design needs.
Its not hard to shape one out, the design is rather straight forward.
email for more at retroshaper@gmail.com

Well...

2009-07-29T06:42:00.000-07:00

Up the road, down the road, up the road, down the road...
6 thousand miles between this post and the last.
Lets see...
Surfed.
Bought a house.
Surf trip.
Moved in to house.
Surf trip.
Hippie trip.
Surf trip.
Surf trip.
Bike trip.
Worked on house.
Surfed.
Worked on house.
Didn't surf.
Surfed.
Surfed.
Now you are up to speed.

I haven't shaped a thing since late June and I have one board to finish (sorry Randy), two to shape (part of the house purchase) and thats about it.
I need to get a longboard done for myself as I snapped the nose on the 10'0".
I am not doing boards for others after these, no money in it and I can't simply give away what I build.
It was a good run.

Been a good summer so far, I was out of the water for a bit after the last SC trip ( I was spoiled ) but caught the super deluxe Mysto Saturday and Sunday, HH and spitting a mere 20' off the rocks.
Solo for the first hour both days.
Funny thing was I spotted two of them tourist types from that OSP hangout, they were this close to the Mysto spot but passed it right by.

Speaking of shitpigs...
Our local gossip monger, kook and wannabe enforcer of all things local stepped over the line recently.
Yes Mr. Ron Whitley, you fucked up.
Its bad enough you can barely surf, that alone has most of us just laughing at you.
But over the line you went.
No one respects you asshole.
And you were smart to get out before I paddled.
You should always do that.

Ah, Coos Bay, gotta love it.
15 surfers here sharing 12 spots and still nothing but drama brought on by jealousy and childishness.
Any one else have a 'local' shitpig wannabe enforcer who couldn't walk to the nose if the tail was on fire?

Anyway, still as surly as always.
Ride brothers and sisters, ride on.
See ya.

Gone, Baby, gone....

2009-06-28T06:12:00.000-07:00

No updates or shaping till mid-July....
Check back then and see my new shop and glassing set up...and our new home!
Off to the Land of Enchantment...see ya!

Karma fin...

2009-06-25T05:42:00.000-07:00

A few months ago, fellow swaylockers Paul Jensen and David Falkenau were trying to do a trade, a 24' paddleboard for a 13'5" longboard. trouble was they live 1100 miles away from each other. They put the word out on sways, trying to get rides north and south for the boards. I chimed in that I could help as I usually make a Swami's trip in late winter. I was able to pick up Paul's paddleboard in Portland and get it 225 miles closer to David before my Swami's trip was canceled. No worries, I knew Santa Cruz was coming up so we made arrangements to pass it along there.
Turns out I was shaping a board for a friend who had another friend coming up from San Diego-and he had room for the 13'5" and picked it up in Carlsbad.
Last week, I dropped off the paddleboard with Rooster in Santa Cruz, the week before, the 13'5" was delivered to my front door.
Rooster will get the paddleboard to Santa Barbara at least, much closer to San Diego than here.
Yesterday, Paul stopped by to pick up the 13'5"...

Here comes the Karma...

I use one of my Father's old fins, a 1968 issue Nuuhiwa fin. Its beat, stressed, worn down on the tip and fits kind of loose. But its a great fin.
I copied the fin myself as a glass on, had it fitted on my 10'0" till the tail and fin met some rocks and ripped the fin base apart (fucked the tail up too).
So yesterday, Paul is showing me his van (super stylie!) and some how fins come up...
And he grabs one out of a drawer and hands it to me..."here, you can have this one"...

Thats the Karma fin on the left, my Fathers old fin in the box and the glass-on I made that was cut off after the tail exploded in the rocks (look closely and you can see the tail has been rebuilt).
Got to say, made my day.
I got a sticker too.
Paul is a straight up guy who builds some very nice boards and has really pushed the envelope when it comes to HWS's.
Thanks Paul, I will treasure this fin for a long time to come.

Stella and I switched bake night to Wednesdays so we could swim on Thursdays, here she is breaking things....
Yep, except for no surf, yesterday was pretty damn good...
See ya and thanks for stopping by.

2009-06-23T18:39:00.000-07:00

Way cool

2009-06-23T10:49:00.000-07:00

Coffin Ryder....
hat tip the Flying Longboarder....

Head check...

2009-06-23T07:10:00.000-07:00

Yep, still there...
Running out to check out the low tide, not for surf because there isn't any but to show Stella whats under us when surfing.
I love rocks.
And I love teaching her these things, reefs, bars, rips, shorebreak.
Safety, ya know.

New Mexico is raging with LEO's busting Rainbows for any little thing.
The first weeks of a Gathering are like that.
This time though, the locals of Cuba are getting caught up in it, DUI's and the like...
Ignore all rumors of roadblocks etc...lol.

Seems I touched a nerve when I didn't name the blog that now features an ad for a magazine I have never seen let alone read.
I still won't name it, no reason.
And like I said its a personal choice if you want to to that-ads on your blog I mean and its a personal choice to not want to read that blog any more.
And...its a personal attack that shows how thin your rationale is for doing it.
You can't claim Soul and then act like a whore.
Not that you are a whore.
For a nickel.
But consider the SOC closed for now, k?

Well, have to run, this will be the last post till July something, have to go get my 'hippie in the woods' on.

See ya and have a great Summer.
Ad free of course.

Not even looking...

2009-06-22T06:54:00.000-07:00

Because its crap out.
High pressure returns this week so not much point to it.
30 knots from the North.
Too small in the protected bay.
And simply blown out and messy every where else.
Thats why I stuffed so many waves in my pocket last week.

I remember spinning on a wave as I paddled back out and a buddy saying "you greedy fucker!"
Yep, cuz I knew then that in a week I would be not even looking.

Today...everything is back to the same old shit, not to say that I don't have it made (compared to some) but really, Summer is supposed to be different.
For a surfer anyway.

And to fan some old flames real quick...
Being a local (I am not) is not as much fun as it used to be.
Especially in a town with such a small gene pool.
While there may be 15 surfers here, it never fails that at least 5 want to kill each other, 5 are too busy grumbling about how shitty it is-even when its good and 5 are out surfing.
I fall into the first and the last group.
The kook that owns the surf shop hates me because I mentioned he doesn't have wax for us, he some how equates that fact to 'talking shit about him'.
The local Evangelical surfer hates me because I don't 'share' when in the water.
Apparently I am supposed to let waves go by for the lazy fuckers who don't know that you should paddle to the peak....right.
The local "enforcer" is a somewhat decent surfer (he can get to his feet) but has issues with those who can surf circles around him (me). This guy is a piece of work, rumor monger, booster, etc but when confronted about his stupidity...well, you know.

I often mumble in the water..."I am not from here", I say it with pride.
And let my surfing do the talking.
Its for me, not for you.
Every bottom turn, cutback and flailing Island kickout.
For me.

I was reading Pete at foulweather, thats what put me in this mood this morning.
He and I have much in common though he remains a bit idealistic and is a better street skater. But we have never met, surfed together or otherwise communicated in a friendly manner. I am sure we will some day.
I might even share a set or two.

In other news, I have real issues with surf blogs that run ads, have pop ups or tracking software installed in their templates.
If your blog about surfing is commercial in the first place, I guess thats ok for you.
But if it isn't and suddenly you feel its ok to subject others to your nickel making silliness, wow.
I run Firefox with adblocker so I don't see these ads usually.
But damn if I want to be assaulted with more commercialism when I surf through the blogs I read.
I have been reading Daily Bread for a long time but skip it lately because it seems he is begging for click throughs at the end of every post.
I am all for being informed about a decent surf oriented product that I might want but...there is a line.

My blog here is to document my shaping travails, my surf trips and a bit of this and that.
5 readers or 500, doesn't matter.
Like my surfing, its for me.
Not nickels.

Home is where the Heartbreak is....

2009-06-21T07:12:00.000-07:00

Left outta SF yesterday and, as is standard, hit the North wind and rain just after Santa Rosa...right about where the State of Jefferson starts.
We spent Friday at Discovery Kingdom, riding the coasters and checking out the animal shows.
Stella and Crystal love coasters...I prefer slow moving mini-Jeeps...

Surf was good overall on the trip, smaller than predicted but with two swells running, lots of waves to be had. I surfed Indicators and the Slot, First Peak, the Hook, Privates, Sharks and of course, Jacks house (who was out and about without a cane on Thursday).
Indicators gave up the thrills and chills of surfing sans leash, OH and as close to the bluff face as you want to be. The Orangecicle stayed true and never left me floating...never missed the connecting section into the Slot either.
Lots of tube time till my arms gave out from a three session day.
Mornings were low tide and I usually surfed First Peak first and then moved to the Hook for some higher tide freight trains in late morning. The twin fin planing hull was made for that type of wave and the speed runs usually ended with Hail Mary cover-ups on the inside. Afternoons were log time at Jacks and First Peak...Thats the last 25 yards of a 200 yard wave I caught at First Peak, the wife looked up and there I was...legs were already rubber.

I was invited down to Privates for a late session Wednesday, all I can say is that is one sweet log wave, especially with only 4 out and some very consistent conditions.
Here are some pics, the surf shots are all 38th st in the late afternoon high tide mush-and the wife is not a surf photographer...
Thats 10'0" of Log leaving a trench.

Thats a chip dork on my inside, my new name for those clueless board riders who seem to Just. Not. Get. It. This was at Drainpipes.

Privates afternoon glass, 200 yards of glide and nose ride....

Stella getting her pizza fix...and below, Stella getting her shorebreak training.

Another wave at Pipes, late afternoon softness. There were four of us out trading waves till dark.

Stella and I in the line up, discussing peaks and shoulders, kooks and hodads...and chasing sea otters. The swell had dropped over night so her and I paddled around for an hour.
I have some more pics and whatnot but its all the same old shit really.
We have a busy week so again, the blog will go on hiatus till sometime in early July.
We close on a house Friday, New Mexico is on tap after that.
See ya and thanks for stopping by.

Oh, I was given a new rule for dropping in on others-"They gotta a leash on? Go!"
"When they get good enough to surf without one....well..."
Makes sense to me.

Not yet...

2009-06-20T05:57:00.001-07:00

I am in San Francisco at the moment, finally going North today but not looking for any more surf...ya know you got some when you don't care if you find more.
SC was great, swell was consistent though not as big as last months trip.
I did a few more spots at the invitation of locals, the extreme Southerly direction had some oddball points working and we had some 4' by 200 yard waves to ourselves for most of Thursday.
The Wife and Child are happy, the Boardwalk gave them plenty to do while I got my surf on.
Thats the news from the road, pics when I get home tomorrow or Monday....
See ya...

Welcome Home...

2009-06-12T06:09:00.000-07:00

The 38th Annual Rainbow Gathering of the Tribes is at Parque Venado in the Santa Fe National Forest. 24 miles from Cuba, New Mexico. Oregon 1997

The site is beautiful, altitude is 8,500 - 9,000 feet. Be prepared for cold nights (low 40's to 50 degrees) Warm days in the mid 80's and sunny. 1/2 hour afternoon thunderstorms most days, which are downpours, bring good rain gear.

Directions from Albuquerque: Take I-25 north to U.S. Highway 550. Go north on U.S. Highway 550 approximately 65 miles to State Highway 126 (Cuba, NM). From Cuba, NM take State Road 126 East for 13 + miles to FS Road 103 on left, go 2 miles to FS Road 69 on left then drive 9 miles to where FS Road 69 meets FS Road 70.

Very little surf in the area...lol.

See ya.

Laying low...

2009-06-05T15:23:00.000-07:00

Busy few weeks coming up, I have packed away the shaping stuff and will have to be content with what I have in the quiver, the wife has counted boards (I have three) so I won't be building anything for a while.
The southward trip is on, New Mexico for two weeks after that so I doubt there will be much new content here.
Check back in July maybe.
See ya.

Weather...

2009-06-03T20:51:00.000-07:00

Yeah, could live with out this shit.
Its almost 74 out and raining hard.
I had resin go off in less than 15 minutes, a bit of a mess to clean up...
Show ya tomorrow...yuck.
I got some surf today, 2' slop at best but something to do. I found a left in the mess that made the walk worth it.
Barely.
In other news, I don;t have any.
Kinda burnt out for the week, its been a tough few, thats for sure.
Anyway, see ya.

Oh, whats with all this leash talk?
Every one on the bandwagon?
23breaths is on it, Doc is on it.
Look, its this:
Wear a leash when you need to.
Dont use it though unless you have to.
If its under 4' and you are wearing a leash, there had better be some danger inside.
A leash causes drag, wraps around your leg, makes you lazy.
A beginner with a leash is the dumbest thing ever, its not like they are in deep water and they usually fall near the board anyway...
Thats my take.
See ya.

Love the weather but where is the surf?

2009-06-03T07:28:00.001-07:00

Hot and humid, I like it, thunderstorms and lightning, reminds of some where else.
But not much for surf.
Nice SW in the water but not here.
Getting the MP Speed Egg glassed today and I have the finishing touches to do on my own 6'6" all the while trying to get my trip sorted out.
My new resin came yesterday, kinda green in the jug but it wets out nicely and is water clear when kicked.
What more could you ask for?
Fins.
I need fins. "I am a Hull..."

Any one?
I am looking for some fins, singles...at least 5....

Legs are still down for the count, I guess that shot I took was bad.
Oh well.
On to bigger and better things I guess.
See ya.

Stuff

2009-06-01T20:52:00.000-07:00

Been busy healing...I took my longboard, the one with the pinched rails, into my thighs last night and its tough to walk.
I did set out a new template and lo and behold, I find that the guys at PCProgress
have done the same board.
But awesome of course.Art by Stella

I like it as it relates to the Orangecicle but with the single option. The Orangecicle was too small for me but the 6'6" I am building will fit the bill.
Especially when its hooked up to a flex single.
In other news, I sorta got another order for a hull type craft but I don't know if I want that wave hog out on one of my 'catches waves by itself' boards.
I say by themselves because the hulls don't get leash plugs.
Not much more fun than swimming after your board and watching it glide into a wave and into the beach.
I wonder if the boards do that on purpose?
Anyway, rambling on here, life is good.
See ya.

Thats better...

2009-06-01T05:54:00.000-07:00

Yesterday was as good as it gets...
Was a bit late to the "Super Epic, All Time, Shoulda been here an Hour Ago" session but got a few anyway...
Saw S with his new hull and he had a smile, loves the board-this is a guy with Liddle and Andreinis hulls in his quiver...not saying mine are as good...but...
I ran up to Florence and delivered the Barklow Pintail, every one was right on time and he and his son were happy with the board and I was impressed with the 'Quantico' parking sticker...Thanks again Mr. Barklow!
I checked two spots on the way back but not much happening so I got home, dealt with the soon to be napping wife and child, dried my suits and snuck out for the afternoon tide push.
13 of my best friends were out already but by the time I hit the water, the crowd was down to 6.
Tag team surfing.
Peaks were working everywhere and the main peak was lining up into the rip with a nice bowl through the middle.
40 waves later...
Yeah, great day.
This week has me doing the glassing on my Velo Hull and Randy's Retro Single Glider as well as shaping out something different, I don't know what yet-shoot me an idea.
Southerly swell is supposed to pick up late this week so I do have a plan in place for a quick trip south, this will be my last till late July when I get back from New Mexico.
New Mexico?
Yeah.
Rainbow Gathering, the National.
Stella's first, my 14th.
Welcome Home
I didn't bother with Wyoming last year as gas was simply too much but this year, Stella is paying for the trip, does it get any better than your six old covering a Summer Vacation?
Colorado 2006...

Nope.
And while I am on a roll, even without cake, I now own a Cannondale Super Deluxe down the Coast Touring bicycle...
Yep, been a good weekend...
See ya, take on the day, will ya?
Oh, the Pintail in Purple...

.

2009-05-29T15:24:00.001-07:00

Love that sandbar...

2009-05-29T07:22:00.001-07:00

Yeah, been busy shaping and glassing this week but still found time for a few sessions. Our local wind protected sandbar has been great during this flat spell, holding up rights into the rip and lefts that peel over crystal clear water onto the bar.
Been stuck riding the log but its better than nothing.
Boards are going well, I have the Barklow Lightweight ready for the fin box this morning-always my last step for some reason-and I hope to deliver it this weekend.

I shaped out my new Simmons inspired Hull Velo tail at 6'6", I will be putting boxes in it so it can go single or keel, nice to have a choice. I did use more curve in the rail starting at 34 inches, not to get it looser but to pull the tail back into the 17 inch range.
I plan on doing a Balsa deck with my new vacuum bag set up-thats right, compsand here I come because if I ain't learning, I end up being a blank skinner and shaping generic surfboards-can't have that, I would be competing with...well, you know.

I have a trip southward next week, new south is hitting my Tropical vacation spot with a predicted 6' plus, long period swell, Santa Cruz...time to trunk it! Ok, so the water is still 57 there but thats good enough for me to shed rubber...local water is down to 47, thank you 40 knot North wind.
Thats my friend in the lower center of the screenshot...spin Baby spin!
I have room for one if anyone wants to tag along.
Right.
Most people are so busy working for money that working for time ain't gonna happen.
I learned long ago that no matter how rich I get, I still can't buy time.
Can you?

Well, thats the news from the Retro shack of shaping...
See ya.

201...

2009-05-26T21:27:00.001-07:00

Posts...but this week will be slow here as I have to get a few things done...boards of course.
Currently have three in the shed and and one more on the way, one to get done soon and the others are outlined and ready for cutout.
So...go find something else to do...
See ya.
Oh, got some today.
Waves I mean.

First....

2009-05-25T07:15:00.000-07:00

An emergency camping trip...first heading southward and then...because there was no surf...and we had family camped out up at Cougar Hot Springs...we left to the Springs in a hurry...but an hour from Cougar we learned that the Family was actually up above Oakridge...but we got lucky and found a camp spot anway, on a Friday night, Memorial Day Weekend...right near some full on Valley Big Truck flat-billers...who liked their music really loud....but its wasn't speed metal....till around 11 pm...but that stopped at Midnight...so they could play with their guns...the springs were closed anyway till Saturday...so we packed up and hit the springs and then hauled ass home because the Valley does really suck...only to come home to 40 knots of wind (thats from the Valley sucking so hard) and 2' swell...but, hey, there is always the skatepark...but I don't own any skate type tennis shoes...but that didn't stop me so we three hit Myrtle Point...and didn't get beat up by the little kids...but I did have to run out of a sticker hit near the top of the bowl and did some nasty foot slapping on the way down...thats ok, the blisters I was already getting padded my feet...came home to find red trim getting painted on my windows...wife was hard at work...no thanks Dear, you go ahead...RW was here house sitting Friday and Saturday...and waiting for one 'special' piece of ass....how special...he cleaned my ENTIRE house because he is caring and thoughtful and this chick was HOT...so we bailed out to the Aunts place so he could get his...but man, my house is clean...thats one cool brother there...I wish I had his energy...gonna leave out some paint and some windows and lumber for his next stay...lol...his board colors came out not so bueno so we start another one today because there is NO FUCKING SURF....anywhere...I know because my spies have already looked from one end of Oregon to the other...and I have been up seen 0500 staring at the Camel Rock cam and wishing I was closer to Cali...so thats my weekend in a nutshell...and I still have today to go...where is my BONG?!!???

lmao...see ya.

Further...

2009-05-22T06:53:00.000-07:00

Its not just the name of a famous bus...

I did not get much done the last two days, between Stella and the house, the nasty 40 knot winds and a questionable gallon of resin, I have not been that productive.
I have the Barklow pin masked and ready for deck glass but it will have to wait till tomorrow for that, my Silmar resin has a cloudy look to it and I need to swap it out at the local supply house.
They rotate stock but their supplier sometimes doesn't and I will not use a questionable looking resin...fresh or nothing darn it!
While I have the blank shaped out, I transferred the numbers to two other blanks, I am sure to be asked for more of that style of board so that will save me some time.
Anyway, I wish I had more but thats it from the woeful windy Coast.
Have a good weekend and be sure to remember those who gave their lives for this Country.

See ya.

Priorities...

2009-05-21T09:41:00.000-07:00

Had a sick child yesterday so to her needs I did tend.
Got zip done but I have today to do what must be done by tomorrow.
Wish me luck, I am no good at being in a hurry...
Ghandi said "the purpose of life has never been to speed it up"...

And I lost my phone...
Right about now I should mention the 30 knots of North wind...
Oh well, sometimes you kick, sometimes you get kicked...
See ya.

Next...

2009-05-20T06:27:00.000-07:00

6'4" Source Scrambler.

I did an outline last night on my next board (meaning for me), really just a longer Orangescicle board but with a thinner tail and a different fin layout.
I sent off an email for info on tail width but these curves are my own.
The 6'0" Orangescicle has enough float for me so taking that volume and
putting it in a 6'8", pull the tail in to 17"...gives the same rail foil and curve as
the smaller 6'0", not quite as loose but with these legs, I don't need loose.
The concept of thinner-meaning tail thickness-from 26 inches up, well, I think I will get carried away...
Ya'll seen this?
I am so stealing that.

I had a long conversation last night with another local guy about hulls and other alt craft.
Not really alt I guess, just different from the mass produced or tired old shapes.
And I think, for me, its that my surfing has evolved to a point where I need/want to explore other ways of surfing. I have always surfed all kinds of boards, long and short.
But with the ability to shape out whatever I want for not too much money, that opens up a whole new way of looking at what I can get under my feet.
And, the wife really doesn't care how many boards pile up, as long as one goes away each week.
I was riding a 5'6" twin fin in 1976.
2009, I can ride a 6'0" planing hull twin fin.
And have fun doing it.
My surfing isn't as 'vert' as it once was, thats true.
My back (Hell, my body) will not let me do what came naturally as a kid.
So like the rest of the old guys, down the line speed and long carves have replaced getting upside down backside re-entries...come on, admit it.
I have always been a down the line kind of guy anyway, growing up on a point break does that to you.
So, searching for new ways to 'surf', I guess I am using my shaping to do just that.
Lately when I ride my log, I sit and trim out more often than not. I find myself tucking into the pocket more often and riding the nose less. Dragging my hand in the wave face, often.
Am I bored with logs? A little. The same moves over the last 40 years...yeah, its all second nature now. I did come up with some new shit after watching the logjam in SC but I find myself itching for any wave over 3' that will let me go to the shortboard.
I love bottom turns.
Long, swooping, way out onto the shoulder bottom turns.
I have a good one, be it on a log or otherwise.
My formative years were spent looking at pictures of Jeff Hakman and Reno, many others at Sunset. Those guys committed to their bottom turns and always seem to project with amazing speed.
Full circle.

After finishing out the Minty Hull, I have a few ideas and I am lucky enough to be able to get them into foam and glass.
Uh, what was I saying?
Yeah, I love surfing and I love shaping.
Thats it.
And I am heading off into the thinner tailed hulls and altcraft.
Why not?
I still ride a sponge too.
Its all surfing.
Claim it, right Sissyfish?

Barklow pintail 'Lightweight'

2009-05-19T17:15:00.000-07:00

The Barklow pintail 'Lightweight'...
A bit of foiling to do yet but its within an hour
of being ready for glassing.
Purple tint was mentioned, darker purple.
Cutlapped onto the deck.
But I need a deck color.
Not clear, too stark.
What the heck goes with a darker shade of
purplish?
Off to Sways to browse through the 'resin tints and patterns' threads...

Thats a medium 9'4" blank...

Thats the start of things...

There are the rocker numbers I want and I have the stringer close to them.
Got them and now the stringer and bottom are uniform and the foam is flat straight across.
Start of walking down the rail bands.
Deck somewhat foiled, outline is at pencil line.
And there she is.
Headed to Newport when finished.
Its a copy of a very popular board back in the day.
Its only update is a bit of rail, the original shaper got it right.
And I left a bit of thickness, hidden but its there.
Hidden.
Right.

See ya.

FAIL

2009-05-19T10:36:00.000-07:00

6ftnperfect mentioned he had a mini Simmons go south on him...

This is whats left of a really bad mix of hot resin/too much tint and a whole lot of Sun...
The Bloody Stool before...

The Bloody Stool after a month on my roof...
Epic Fail...lol.
But like they say, even Rich Harbours first board was a piece of shit.
And Terry Martin shaped me a slug of a team board back in the day too, a board so bad I left it on the beach in Mex after only two waves, in three pieces.
Shapes happen, sometimes they are Magic, other times, just shit.

The hazards of litter...

2009-05-19T06:47:00.000-07:00

I just went out to the van to get my suit out and wash it up.
After last nights session, I had picked up the parking area, litter left over from the weekend warrior crew.
I picked up a few paper cups, a few cans and a box dinner from DQ...
The DQ box had some weight to it and normally I would toss any food in it to the gulls or crows but I just threw it in the trash bag I carry in the van.
This morning, I grabbed the bag to empty it out and three rats came out of it, in a hurry.
Yeah, I jumped a bit.
Friggin' rats.
And then I thought, maybe the rats were the dinner? It is DQ after all.
Yuck.
In other news...
Suns out, looks like a great day on the Coast.
9 months of rain will have you praising even a '55 as the high' kinda day.

I am still pretty stoked after last nights session, there is something about evening go outs, especially with decent conditions and zero crowds.
And that kind of stoke has me wanting to shape some more boards.

I am putting the final touches to the Speedy Two Tone, a board that has been a challenge from the start. I don't like spray painted blanks, the color fades, they look cheap and are really a short cut to a good looking board.
After a few dings, they really look like shit.
On this one, the guy wanted black and white...so instead of going cheesy and spraying it out in acrylics, I used the old method of resin foam stain and then taping it off and doing the glass in colored layers. Real 1960's kind of stuff.
But....I ran into compatibility issues, the gloss coat lifted some of the lam color, the black picked up every speck of dust it could find-including two spiders...
The white-though all tinted at the same time, still laminated in two shades.
In short, from ten feet it looks good...close up? Not so much.
What did I learn?
No more black noses, no more white decks or bottoms.
And no, I will not spray out a foam blank, like I said, cheesy.
Its resin tint or nothing.
But the Speedy Two Tone will be what it will, I am dropping its price to cost for him, if I ain't happy at least he will be.
Unless he hates it, then look for a really cheap 7'10" to show up here.
I don't mind failing a bit but I sure ain't gonna stare at it for long.

Thats the news from here.
See ya.

Sweetness and light...

2009-05-18T21:24:00.000-07:00

And a pony too.
Had a great session just a bit ago, fun little beachbreak with little wind and two others out, a SUP'er and S on my sixten Simmons...I was relegated to longboarding on my trusty 10'0". Lots of waves, lined up lefts and the rights were reforms all the way through the shorebreak.
S had a bunch of waves including the last left of 75 yards to the beach.

He picked up his new hull from me but neither of us had a fin with us...lol.
He likes it, lets see how it rides ( I was hoping to ride it first but....)

Anyway, just another good day in a long string of good days.
Oh, I made brownies. No, not the special kind.
Going to finish a new longboard blank tomorrow for a surfer in Newport and finish off the last of the polishing on the Speedy Two Tone.
Then on to another Bing copy I think.
Life is good.

'night.

Two boards...

2009-05-18T07:34:00.000-07:00

Will be done today...and two more started.
Oh boy.

Was a great weekend though, got some surf, got some board stuff done, went swimming...watched "Twilight"...(zzzzzz) and some guy named JT won Survivor.
Does it get any better?
Yes.
We made an offer on a house...a full acre in town, south facing, good solar prospects and we will have some rental income too if everything goes as planned.
I will be out a shaping bay for a month but I have another place to do that.
Not looking forward to moving everything.
The acre is just over the hill from the beach, out of the fog but still 10 minutes from my spots.
Lets hope.
In other news...
A glassing outfit emailed me about glassing my shapes.
I will admit that my glassing, while solid, is never going to be cosmetically perfect.
But to shape a board and then send it 470 miles round trip to be glassed.
For 250.00.
Naw, I will stick with it.
Besides, I like glassing.
Its the sanding that sucks.
And maybe my glass jobs will never be perfect but when I started this, that was never a consideration.
Glassing and colors are tough.
Thats why there are places that do it.
Not every one wants the challenge, dig?
I dig.
And I like the challenge.
The Hull I am finishing today is tight and looks great.
I wonder what that outfit gets for a Coke bottle green tint?

Well, the house is waking up, time to get lunches made, school day planned and surfboards finished up.

See ya.

Wow...

2009-05-17T13:24:00.001-07:00

Surf, lots of it.
I was in the water at 0515 watching the sun come up on 2'-4' peaks, air 45, water maybe 55.
Had it to myself till 0700 when all of my good friends paddled out on me.
Nothing to do but paddle in and grab the shorter board...
I finally got good waves on the little 6'0" twin fin planing hull, otherwise known as the Orangescicle.
I was impressed.
It turns from any where on the board, I was pumping down the line and had toes within a few inches of the nose and I was just climbing and dropping as I pleased.
Its super fast and gets on its hull quickly. No spin outs even backside and pushing the tail hard.
It belly rides good too.
But alas, it needs a younger rider...its simply too short for me at 6'0".
But I will say it rides enough like the Simmons that I never lost the board or fell off and its not like I am used to it.
Is it faster than my Simmons stuff?
Yes.
Even at its length, it felt good drawing a line out onto the flats for a sweeping cutback without worrying about bogging down.
Speed plus.
Can't wait to make a stubbie just like it at 6'6".
I will put it up on CL and see where it goes.

Yeah, its a glamorous life, shaping and sanding...Heading back out in a bit for more, longboard time I guess.
Beats nothing.
See ya.

Sleepy House...

2009-05-16T07:40:00.000-07:00

Man o man...must have been tired last night, went to sleep in the big chair at maybe 6 pm and woke up an hour ago...

Anyway, gonna run and check it, no surf and I will get the boards here done today...even that colored nightmare in black and white.

Ugh.

See ya.

Whew...

2009-05-14T19:08:00.000-07:00

Thats there is some sorta of hull thing.
Tahts the view from the ass end.

No surf so I hid out in the Foam Dungeon.
I went further with this one, near finished.
Here is the foil from the front.
Click it.

Thats the bottom, you can tell cuz it has teh tail patch.
Thats the well balanced outline. Its really balanced on that bit of rail across the basket.

Thats the new hull hanging with last weeks model.
The Orangescicle is bored because there are no waves to be had.
Its also sporting a rather kooky wax job.

See ya.
Oh, Stella and I are doing brownies tonight.
Mmm, brownies.
I may break out the super sugar frosting.

Up since darkthirty...

2009-05-14T10:27:00.000-07:00

Just finished the deck glass on the Hull and the fill coat on the 7'10 speed egg.
Speed egg.
Its a fun board.
Not much difference.
The Hull is wearing a custom Coke bottle green color, fake Volan if you will. It looks great and is one of the better cosmetic glass jobs I have done so far.
Its pretty light so far too, something I expected but didn't really know till now.

The joy of the Hull is its a custom for a local guy.
Thats nothing special but the guy knows a bit about boards.
He has, what? 20? Lots of hulls and alt-craft, some older vintage stuff. That he trusted me to get one of these rather complicated shapes right really boosted my ego a bit.
I am still hack but I do have a certain understanding of Hulls and surfboards, period.
If I see it, I can build it.
And Dog knows I can ride it.

Wanted to start on my new Mini Simmons but it will have to wait till these four are done.
Hoping to ride the Orangescicle today, we will see.

Going to go check the surf in a bit, should be something rideable somewhere and I can't touch anything in the shop for a few hours.

I have two more boards on order...how cool is that?
Summer.
Pictures later of the latest...
See ya.

Minty...

2009-05-13T20:41:00.001-07:00

Glassed today, times two.
Messy business, glassing.

And it never goes exactly as planned,

This one did.
Right color, a match head of green, two drops of white.

Nice droopy string.
And this is all I had leftover.

In other surf type news, scored little a-frames today on a rising tide. Very little wind, it was like Puerto but without the ten foot faces, warm water, chicks and beer on the beach, palm tree's and crowds.
So, two feet and grinding on a shallow sandbar, water 52, air 45 and light rain.
Alone.

Back to it.
See ya.

.

2009-05-13T10:57:00.001-07:00

Its a Slippery Soap.

2009-05-12T21:18:00.001-07:00

This is...

Foam dust, the fine stuff.
The nuisance dust of finishing touches to a blank.

phhhewww...

But this one is ready for glass.
I have the deep dark black board ready for more too so tomorrow promises to be messy.

Its a good thing there is no surf.
Otherwise I might not get anyting done.
Man, I miss waves,

And there isn't much brewing, is there?
Here anyway.
But I made brownies and I shaped out a hull.
I suspect I will see this board drop in on me now and then.
Its a good thing the Simmons inspired boards are faster than a stubbie hull.
(lmao...)
See ya.

6'10" Hull

2009-05-11T16:18:00.000-07:00

S deck....bar of soap in the end days....slick.

Did this one today. The surfer who ordered it will look it over and make some refinements (a true custom) and then I will glass it this week.
What did you do this morning?

See ya.
Oh, 6'10" by 22 1/2 by 3 1/8th, 18 3/4 nose, 16 3/4 tail. Rails will get knifed out and super pinched (when it safe to do so...right before glassing).

The first board....

2009-05-11T07:43:00.000-07:00

Yep, this was my first...
It still lives locally, I don't see it often.
Bio foam, resin tint, cutlaps, etc.
Nothing like challenge for the first one.

Some one buy me one of these.

2009-05-11T07:28:00.000-07:00

Check the comments for a link....
Cool t shirt.
Or maybe Doc will make me one.
You still owe me a shirt, dammit.
And Rick, you so don't want to see the shirt you sent me...
It now has a bunch of locals sniveling about ptown kooks drawn on it.
(if you can't dominate your own line up on any board you own...its time to find a new line up).
I need to get a picture of it.
And let me know when Nico needs the hand me down suits and booties from Stella.