Freaks

Thats what you find when you have massive swell and tide swings...
I watched a left yesterday that would have scared the Shipsterns guys peel off a slab reef for 50 yards. It was 15' plus and grinding away, so hollow and spitting you could have put a school bus in it-sideways.
It was breaking maybe 20 yards of the beach and was makeable.
Not for me though.
I ended up at a different freak, high tide push plus 10' swell equals one quality sandbar where none should exist.
Its not often you get to finish out a wave up a creek 20 yards.
I have surfed that freak before but not with the shape and size it had yesterday.
And only two guys on it.
State Park Ranger: You ever make it to the bridge?
Me: Not yet.
SPR: Looks like you will today!

The spot was good for two hours, no more, no less.

On the shaping front, I finished shaping a blank for a friend, he wants to do the glass. Its a copy of the first board I made but downscaled for his weight and it has a touch more nose rocker.
I prefer flatter decks and keeping some volume in the board, using the bottom for the rocker and the rail for the foil.
I was on an 8'0" yesterday and burning my friend who was on a 9'4" Arrow. I had the same volume as he but with a faster foil and less board presented to the water surface.
My 8'0" will paddle into waves better than his 9'4", all things being equal.
Wider/thicker is better than longer/thinner.
Who needs all that nose swing?
We scaled his board using AKU, a little more curve in the last 36" for some carve.
Of course we dented the deck just carrying it out to his car...no worries.

Mikes board gave me issues with the acrylic pinlines drifting off on one side of the deck. I don't know why but the line lifted in the hotcoat and drifted down the rail. I found the mess, sanded it out, redid the pin and did the hotcoat again.
The pinline once again migrated in these three area's.
WTF?
I have no idea, contamination?
We are going to sand it out and just do the line on top of the hotcoat and then clearcoat it.
Well, he is going to sand it out. I have given up enough time on it!

Thats all the news from here.
The wife did a Hafla last night, raised 104.80 in cash and about 80 lbs. of food for the local food bank.
Cool.

See ya.

1 comment:

Doc said...

Solid, solid, solid up north tonight...
Only got it for an hour before dark...
Paid dues on close to doh tho...
Oh well, 4 out of 5...
And still alive.