Boom

Yep, it was good.
Tired.
Sore.
Lots of steep drops including one very late take off that had all the makings of a TOAD.
Heavy currents and wash, some bump but if you know the place, some very good waves.
Right Mr. Cranberry?
I pulled a 'Blue Crush' on my buddy, told him to not be afraid, just "paddle into the pit man..."
He scored, almost ran me over once.
So...HH, a little bump, four out...for two hours.

Crash.
Boom.
See ya.