"I went surfing instead"

Yeah, wanted to get some board related stuff done but something told me to have a look first.
Had some fun log waves and then transitioned to the 6'6" fish...thats a hard one for me, coming off of 10'0" onto a board that I can do ollies on.
I got four waves on it, I cant get over how well it paddles in to waves, must be the flat rocker and width (23").
I like the board but I thought it would flex a bit being stringerless. I haven't had it out in more than waist high surf yet but even at shoulder high and coming off the bottom hard (I ride logs, I can over power a short board with one leg), I dont feel any flex. Some spring maybe but the damn thing is so fast anyway its hard to tell.
I did lose it and went for a swim, watched it bounce towards the rocks and then get caught in a small southbound rip-thank goodness.
I did step right off the tail...more than once.

I have the prep done on the retro single, its masked and ready for glassing, maybe this pm as its warm enough to kick it.

Anyway, thats the news for me, tough day in Paradise....

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