Home is where the Heartbreak is....

Left outta SF yesterday and, as is standard, hit the North wind and rain just after Santa Rosa...right about where the State of Jefferson starts.
We spent Friday at Discovery Kingdom, riding the coasters and checking out the animal shows.
Stella and Crystal love coasters...I prefer slow moving mini-Jeeps...

Surf was good overall on the trip, smaller than predicted but with two swells running, lots of waves to be had. I surfed Indicators and the Slot, First Peak, the Hook, Privates, Sharks and of course, Jacks house (who was out and about without a cane on Thursday).
Indicators gave up the thrills and chills of surfing sans leash, OH and as close to the bluff face as you want to be. The Orangecicle stayed true and never left me floating...never missed the connecting section into the Slot either.
Lots of tube time till my arms gave out from a three session day.
Mornings were low tide and I usually surfed First Peak first and then moved to the Hook for some higher tide freight trains in late morning. The twin fin planing hull was made for that type of wave and the speed runs usually ended with Hail Mary cover-ups on the inside. Afternoons were log time at Jacks and First Peak...Thats the last 25 yards of a 200 yard wave I caught at First Peak, the wife looked up and there I was...legs were already rubber.

I was invited down to Privates for a late session Wednesday, all I can say is that is one sweet log wave, especially with only 4 out and some very consistent conditions.
Here are some pics, the surf shots are all 38th st in the late afternoon high tide mush-and the wife is not a surf photographer...
Thats 10'0" of Log leaving a trench.

Thats a chip dork on my inside, my new name for those clueless board riders who seem to Just. Not. Get. It. This was at Drainpipes.

Privates afternoon glass, 200 yards of glide and nose ride....

Stella getting her pizza fix...and below, Stella getting her shorebreak training.

Another wave at Pipes, late afternoon softness. There were four of us out trading waves till dark.

Stella and I in the line up, discussing peaks and shoulders, kooks and hodads...and chasing sea otters. The swell had dropped over night so her and I paddled around for an hour.
I have some more pics and whatnot but its all the same old shit really.
We have a busy week so again, the blog will go on hiatus till sometime in early July.
We close on a house Friday, New Mexico is on tap after that.
See ya and thanks for stopping by.

Oh, I was given a new rule for dropping in on others-"They gotta a leash on? Go!"
"When they get good enough to surf without one....well..."
Makes sense to me.

1 comment:

Surfsister said...

I love that new rule!

I think I will be surfing leashless even more now, at least for awhile. My bad, now good and bionic knee, is on the leg that takes the leash. It was beginning to hurt when the leash pulled. I only surf with a leash in bigger waves (or when near rocks) anyway. For now, I'm done with them until they stop causing knee pain.

Of course, I still can't surf so what am I talking about.

Great pictures!