Not even looking...

Because its crap out.
High pressure returns this week so not much point to it.
30 knots from the North.
Too small in the protected bay.
And simply blown out and messy every where else.
Thats why I stuffed so many waves in my pocket last week.

I remember spinning on a wave as I paddled back out and a buddy saying "you greedy fucker!"
Yep, cuz I knew then that in a week I would be not even looking.

Today...everything is back to the same old shit, not to say that I don't have it made (compared to some) but really, Summer is supposed to be different.
For a surfer anyway.

And to fan some old flames real quick...
Being a local (I am not) is not as much fun as it used to be.
Especially in a town with such a small gene pool.
While there may be 15 surfers here, it never fails that at least 5 want to kill each other, 5 are too busy grumbling about how shitty it is-even when its good and 5 are out surfing.
I fall into the first and the last group.
The kook that owns the surf shop hates me because I mentioned he doesn't have wax for us, he some how equates that fact to 'talking shit about him'.
The local Evangelical surfer hates me because I don't 'share' when in the water.
Apparently I am supposed to let waves go by for the lazy fuckers who don't know that you should paddle to the peak....right.
The local "enforcer" is a somewhat decent surfer (he can get to his feet) but has issues with those who can surf circles around him (me). This guy is a piece of work, rumor monger, booster, etc but when confronted about his stupidity...well, you know.

I often mumble in the water..."I am not from here", I say it with pride.
And let my surfing do the talking.
Its for me, not for you.
Every bottom turn, cutback and flailing Island kickout.
For me.

I was reading Pete at foulweather, thats what put me in this mood this morning.
He and I have much in common though he remains a bit idealistic and is a better street skater. But we have never met, surfed together or otherwise communicated in a friendly manner. I am sure we will some day.
I might even share a set or two.

In other news, I have real issues with surf blogs that run ads, have pop ups or tracking software installed in their templates.
If your blog about surfing is commercial in the first place, I guess thats ok for you.
But if it isn't and suddenly you feel its ok to subject others to your nickel making silliness, wow.
I run Firefox with adblocker so I don't see these ads usually.
But damn if I want to be assaulted with more commercialism when I surf through the blogs I read.
I have been reading Daily Bread for a long time but skip it lately because it seems he is begging for click throughs at the end of every post.
I am all for being informed about a decent surf oriented product that I might want but...there is a line.

My blog here is to document my shaping travails, my surf trips and a bit of this and that.
5 readers or 500, doesn't matter.
Like my surfing, its for me.
Not nickels.

4 comments:

Surfsister said...

I like your style, my man! I probably wouldn't like it in the water. Then again, maybe I would. I'm growing more and more impatient with the surfers at most breaks. I used to shy away from paddle battles. Now I invite them cos I no longer back down and I've got the fitness to back me up.

Catch a left for me when you paddle out again!

Bill said...

Happy fathers day from one old fart to another

Doc said...

To be honest...
Your issues go far beyond surf blogs that run ads, have pop ups or tracking software installed in their templates....
But either way...
Enjoy your pureness.

Retro hack said...

Close to home eh Doc? Hey, its your blog, you want to beg for nickels, go ahead.
And as to 'my issues', thanks for your diagnosis, some day you might be retired and get to do all the things I do, till then, keep posting surf reports from your home in Portland for me... and yes, I will strive to enjoy my pureness.
Tell the collective cock of the OSP I said hi.