After fuming last night....

And really getting worked up...
Hey, I aint from here, so don't judge me...
I called my Father.
My Father lives in Northern Baja, he is an old school prick, way worse than I could ever be.
We shared some stories about the old days at Topanga and Bay St., what localism was like back in the late 1960's, what it was like in the 1970's.
I left Cali for good in 1987 but by then I had a Dume key...

He and I use to zip tie leashes of other surfers together.
If someone dropped in on us, we broke off their fins.
If some one got mouthy in the water, I often saw my Father pull his fin out of the box and threaten to slash a guys neck with it...to this day, I don't use a fin bolt...lol.

Right Loren?

Anyway, I never saw the reason for all of that violence, it was just surf after all...let your skills and your commitment do the talking...



But there were some shitpigs who deserved the treatment.
I remember a certain val who had his car stolen and driven in to the creek.
Donny Wilson had his van set on fire up at third point.
After an NSSA contest in O'side one year, four of North County's finest surfers chased us halfway to Trestles because we had the nerve to come down and beat their school team at their home break.
I saw my own brother get his ass handed to him after snaking Sarlo.
Just recently I was told "You ain't sharing!" (by the same guy who Whitley was mouthing off to) and took it to heart-I was being greedy that day....






Rant off.

In other news, I got a Hitachi planer with the Clark mods...
Now I need to go break one of my boards so I can use it!
See ya kids...

1 comment:

Surfsister said...

I'm a chick and I don't disagree with a good diss or ass-kicking. I'm not raising my son to completely turn the other cheek. I'm simply teaching him not to start a fight. But if one starts, then he's got to be ready to bring it. (Not easy for a skinny little guy who's scared of his own shadow.) The good thing about having grown up black and athletic is that I totally get when men have to do what they have to do.

Do your thing, my brotha. You didn't kill him. You're simply calling a punk ass spade a spade. ( I can say that. I'm black, you know. Ha!)

I like your style. I really do.