And we are back....

Sorry kids, wanted to share some surf info with just a few people and this was the best place to do it.
Real secret agent type stuff so if I let every one in on it, know.
(the post is gone, relax SoOr/NorCal'ers)

In other news, its raining and has been since 0200.
South wind at 8 knots due to gust to 20 tonight.
More yay.
10' plus by tonight.
But....there will be waves today for me.

Any guesses as to how this turned out?

After my Big Wave Sissy post, my Father related two stories to me...
I didn't recall getting rescued by him when I was 9, after getting worked at what was then Salt Creek. (I guess it still is)
Busted ear drum, two broken teeth and a broken nose.
I didn't remember getting swept through the old wooden Topanga lifeguard tower during a major swell when I was 11, broke my ankle, nose again and two fingers.
(I think I should have quit surfing a long time ago)

He also mentioned an old timer he used to surf with who was one of the Pioneers at the Ranch.
Dad said the guy carried punching bag balloons and when he lost his board, he would blow a balloon up and use it to float in.
Scared of drowning.
Drowning isn't my worry, its the beating that gets you to that point that I don't care for.

I did board repair yesterday, the 10' had some delam on the rear deck so I fixed that up. I also found pressure front of the comp line.
We did a friends dings at the same time and he asked why I ride such a beat up board when I should be riding a badass resin tinted, wood tailblocked deluxe cruiser, entirely hand shaped and glassed by me.
Um, because I don't have to? When the 10' finally goes, maybe then but for now, I have what I need.
I find no pride in possessions.
Skills, yes.
Ain't one of those surfers with ten boards in the garage, still just 3 in rotation plus a boogie.

Not dissing those with 'board whore syndrome', thats another way of doing it.
Just not for me.

In other news, I gots none, go on about your weekend kids, have fun, be kind.
See ya.

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