Had a blast yesterday surfing a local beach break, yeah it was smaller than every where else but shape is way more important than size-to me anyway.
What good is 6' with no where to go?
Besides, I am scared of big waves.
Once it gets 8' plus without a channel, I am done.
Before you start poking fun, get yourself nearly drowned a few times and get back to me.
Mother Ocean has had me in her grasp more than a few times, caught inside or swept out to sea. And after the third time, I realized that I would rather live to surf another day than risk it all for a bit of glory.
I went over the falls once at Uppers, big day, just huge. I was maybe 16 and misjudged the take off by a few seconds. I was not prepared for the beating I took, my board hit me, I bounced off the bottom, came up again only to get drug another 50 yards under water.
Then the next wave clipped me and one more after that.
I got out and counted the stars circling my head and swore to always surf smarter than I did that day.
A few years later I was at Rincon during an epic and well overhead swell.
It was 10' plus and there were 12 to 15 wave sets rolling through.
I burned maybe six waves before getting a huge screamer into the Cove. I went out over the back and saw another 10 waves coming. The first two I made it over, the next ten pushed me southward a 1/4 mile, up against the highway.
Seeing I was not going to get back outside, I pulled the leash and started swimming (along with two other surfers) towards the oil pier. We all washed through the pier and swam in through some horrendous shorebreak.
It was a long walk back to the upper lot...and I was shaking the whole way.
But being that close to losing it all instilled a fear in me of big waves.
Big being anything over 8' without a channel to hide in.
I have surfed Sunset at 15' Hawaiian (I thought it was 50') and had fun.
I have surfed a local beachbreak at 6' and was scared shitless.
Its all relative I guess.
Just call me a small wave specialist...lol.
Anyway, last weekend of summer coming up...and Stella is going to school full time this year...meaning I have between 8am and 3pm, 5 days a week free.
And its our season for good surf.
Fortunate one, yes?
Well, got to get the wifes' lunch made and get the various critters fed.