That time of year...

When Oregon becomes a surfers paradise...
Sort of.
Big tide swings, swells out of nowhere, warm water in the morning, cold in the afternoon...

Its been epic or near epic 'round these southern parts.

Love it.

I have the first lam down on my longboard, have a ways to go on the other three, a SUP order is in so I am making up a custom blank for it (I don't have anything 29" wide so...I got to make one).

A few days a go, I clicked on something while out in the water.
I was taking off on the second wave of the set, the first wave clipped its surfer and left him right in the line I needed to make the wave...I had a choice, pull back and let it go just in case something happened and I kooked it and ran in to the guy or make eye contact, indicate my line and let him adjust to it.
Thats what I like about being in the water with seasoned surfers, they know what to do.
We looked at each other, I popped up, stalled, a little fade to the left, he had time to regroup and paddle for the shoulder, I made the wave with grace and every one was happy.
But how many times do we see the opposite happen? Guys who paddle into your line or worse, ditch their board as you go by?
So happy I don't see it here.

I was SUP'pin the other day in some really weak shit, 8" to 10" inches at the peak...really.
Anyway, this tourist kid from Oklahoma is swimming sans suit or common sense, his folks were on the beach taking pics of all the pretty we have here. I paddled over to the kid, ditched my paddle and asked him if he wanted to surf...
So I stuck him on the SUP and pushed him into a few waves while his parents took his picture.
He is so going to get some when he gets back to Big Cabin, Oklahoma...
His parents were as happy as he was.
Share the stoke.
I didn't miss a thing.

Well, thats all I got.
Life is good.
Might be waves.
See ya.


Surfsister said...

You would have laughed your ass off at the sequence of pictures of my first wave at San O yesterday. It shows me up on the wave. Then you see this guy paddle directly into my line. I mean, he was looking right at me!! Soul Brother #1 caught the whole thing on film. Classic kook move if there ever was one.

6ftnperfect said...

it's nice to be nice to Okies