Of yesterday please...
I got the consummate Oregon surf call...
"You surf yet?"
"Its really good here, you coming out again?"
"I wish some one else would show up, its..ah...pretty good."
Read that as...
"Its really good but a little bigger than it looks, would not mind having another body in the water, ya know?"
Not a judgment mind ya, just pointing out how uncrowded we can be, especially when it starts pushing OH plus and a bit scary on the set swings.
In other news, today is 35 knots from the south, swell is either 10' or 15' depending on the buoy.
Welcome to Fall.
Left my suits out last night for a natural bath, inch of rail has left them clean and fresh...and wet.
Heading out in a few.
That's all I got...so here is a picture of a bunny with no pancake on his head.
Wait, check this out...
Paul Jensen picking on the hipster plank movement.
I am laughing along with him.