Magic

When I asked yesterday for 'more'...I had no idea that not only would there be more but everything would line up as well as it did.
Two hours, 30 plus waves to the beach.
Two guys out on traditional longboards.
Surfing.
And to think, I almost didn't paddle as it looked small.
I suited up and hiked the trail to the water and I saw a Starfish a tourist had left high and dry, as I placed it in the tidepool, I looked up to see an 8 wave set A frame and peel off as pretty as anywhere.
"I love Oregon" I whispered.
Looked like Costa without the palm tree's and pretty girls.
Of course, the wind was a bit much and the hard rain falling made little difference to me.
We had lots of waves before we swapped boards for kicks. I got to ride a Dave Johnson old school log and he rode my 10'0".
First wave on his board was five over with Soul into a peeling 3' right handed bowl, as I put my toes over and clasped my hands behind my back, I turned my head and looked at him over the back.."Nice board!" and went on my merry way.
He then burned a left that lasted 55 seconds to the beach.
That's a long wave for around here.
The next hour, the rights went unridden as the lefts were just magic bowls all the way to the sand.
More than a few lefts went by too, unridden.
It was as good as it gets.

Today the buoy is showing 18' and winds from the South at 35 knots with gusts to 50.

That's alright, yesterdays session will last for weeks.

A swayser sent me this link for some Greenough edge rail stuff he used on his Velo kneeboards, cool stuff if you haven't seen it.
That's all I got, need to chase some cats that were blown up a tree and I am sure I have a chicken or two that is not happy with the wind.


See ya in the water.