Why....

I surfed for a bit yesterday, in between hotcoats and tailblocks...
Hit the local SUP spot on of all things-my SUP.
Everywhere else looked too big and out of control mostly. I would rather have shape than size any day.
I was surfing junk, 1' slop that would sometimes peel left, sometimes peel right and if you saw the stairstep, you could milk the wave 50 yards. I had a buddy shoot some video while I was out and after watching it, the secret to the SUP's noseriding talent became evident.
The best wave I got was a left, backside for me. I took off left-go-right and ran up to the nose for a quick five over and its obvious the weight of the board as well as the water on the deck from the lip are holding the board in. Keep in mind its still a single fin with a tail that is 19" wide, fin box is 7" up and I am using a pivot fin at 6" base and 11" tall. Even highline lip runs wont pop the fin out unless I force it. Whats going on back there? Lots of water on the deck, the board weighs out near 30 lbs. The video shows a clean wake and lots of 'air' beneath the nose, even during a quick ten the nose stayed up off the face.
Hmmm...
I def have learned something from this SUP.
Concaves are good for entry rocker and may have a bit to do with nose riding but if your rail and outline are good, it will nose ride. Wider is better in small, gutless surf.
I am 205 lbs. in a wetsuit and the SUP floats and paddles great at 9'3" by 31.5 by 4 1/4. It turns. Not 'longboard' pivot turns but actual lean and turn turns. I can't wait to get it out in bigger surf, not only to quiet the nay-sayers (there are many) but to see if I can get the damn thing to go vert and pull it around...
I get to surf all day today...after I finish up some board things.
Mike wants a leash plug in his board (leashes are for dogs)
The new 9'2" Gets bottom glass.
I need to get pictures of the mini Simmons craft (its going to be for sale, act now!)
And lastly, the tide needs to do its deal...

One more note on the leash thing to think about.
I have talked about 4 other surfers out of theirs. You see, if its 4' out and you are surfing beachbreak, how often do you fall? How far away from the board are you when you fall? How far away does the board go when you fall? Is the swim more than 25 yards?
But most importantly, if you are surfing small and gutless crap, do you know how much drag that 6' or 10' leash is inducing? No? Lots my friend, lots.
I have made a habit of surfing The Spot That Must Not Be Named without one. This is one board eating motherfucker, this spot. But it also has Bull Kelp and pinnacle rocks. Things that are just waiting to grab your leash and cause you havoc.
But I found that when I fall while surfing there, the board goes shoulder bound usually and I can reach it in three strokes. Huge advantage in paddle speed which means more waves for me. Huge advantage in not getting wrapped up in the kelp.
And thats what its all about, more waves.
So chuck your leash, limit the chicken string.

But then again, not much funnier than guys out in 2' slop roped to a 9'6" surftechs....

See ya in the water.

If you might be interested in the mini Simmons, shoot me an email at
retroshaper@gmail.com