Magic

When I asked yesterday for 'more'...I had no idea that not only would there be more but everything would line up as well as it did.
Two hours, 30 plus waves to the beach.
Two guys out on traditional longboards.
Surfing.
And to think, I almost didn't paddle as it looked small.
I suited up and hiked the trail to the water and I saw a Starfish a tourist had left high and dry, as I placed it in the tidepool, I looked up to see an 8 wave set A frame and peel off as pretty as anywhere.
"I love Oregon" I whispered.
Looked like Costa without the palm tree's and pretty girls.
Of course, the wind was a bit much and the hard rain falling made little difference to me.
We had lots of waves before we swapped boards for kicks. I got to ride a Dave Johnson old school log and he rode my 10'0".
First wave on his board was five over with Soul into a peeling 3' right handed bowl, as I put my toes over and clasped my hands behind my back, I turned my head and looked at him over the back.."Nice board!" and went on my merry way.
He then burned a left that lasted 55 seconds to the beach.
That's a long wave for around here.
The next hour, the rights went unridden as the lefts were just magic bowls all the way to the sand.
More than a few lefts went by too, unridden.
It was as good as it gets.

Today the buoy is showing 18' and winds from the South at 35 knots with gusts to 50.

That's alright, yesterdays session will last for weeks.

A swayser sent me this link for some Greenough edge rail stuff he used on his Velo kneeboards, cool stuff if you haven't seen it.
That's all I got, need to chase some cats that were blown up a tree and I am sure I have a chicken or two that is not happy with the wind.


See ya in the water.

More...

Of yesterday please...

I got the consummate Oregon surf call...

"You surf yet?"
Yeah.
"Its really good here, you coming out again?"
Nope.
"I wish some one else would show up, its..ah...pretty good."

Read that as...
"Its really good but a little bigger than it looks, would not mind having another body in the water, ya know?"
Not a judgment mind ya, just pointing out how uncrowded we can be, especially when it starts pushing OH plus and a bit scary on the set swings.

In other news, today is 35 knots from the south, swell is either 10' or 15' depending on the buoy.
Welcome to Fall.
And Winter.

Left my suits out last night for a natural bath, inch of rail has left them clean and fresh...and wet.
Heading out in a few.

That's all I got...so here is a picture of a bunny with no pancake on his head.
See ya.

Wait, check this out...
Paul Jensen picking on the hipster plank movement.
I am laughing along with him.

Finally...

Got some yesterday, log time but its all good.
Sun was out, light winds and reforms from outside made for a fun session.

That board below is one to be copied for a local guy, it has a channel set up the length of the bottom...ok.
Why? I don't know.
I asked on sways about it but nothing yet.
Picture Harbour nose channels running the length of the rail.
For lift he says.
Lifting what?

Hmmmph.

In other news...My new egg shapes...

Swell and winds change around today, forecast says really big with lots of wind, we will see.

Found this stash of boards...from a few era's no doubt...



That's all I got, shaping later today with any luck...
Something like this maybe?


See ya...

.

Mother Nature...

Bit me this week.
Really.
No surf to be had around these parts.
Zip.
Not even absolute crap.
And then...
I get punctured by a cactus leaving my right hand unusable, the tip went through my skin into the base knuckle.
Ouch.
A spider bit me on my thigh while looking for surf on Tuesday afternoon.
Didn't think much of it.
Should have.
I am now sporting a square foot of numb and blotchy skin, from my knee to me upper hip.
When I stretch to the right, it burns like some one stabbed me with a spear.

So yeah, Mother Nature, whats up?

So I am heading off to the beach to do some clean up.
Hit the trails and clean them up too.
I have all day.
Its 3' at 7 seconds and 17 knots from the North.

Would have been a great week to get a tattoo.

Thats all I got, see ya.

Home again, home again...chinny chin chin...

Got back from the Noll late last eve after saying cheers to the Oregon crew that had assembled in the dirt along the beach.

Got down there Thursday afternoon, North wind at 30 knots chasing me the whole way...
But I rolled up to 2-4 lowtide beachbreak with slight offshores and was in the water within minutes.
Had what seemed like 50 waves, really clean and lined up nicely, beautiful lefts from just West of the contest site.
Hooked up with Spike and Kendog, had dinner and hit the sack at 2030....zzzzzzzzzzz....
Woke up to junky 3' slop with the first SUP heat scheduled for 1000...but it got better with the tide and by almost heat time, it actually looked good, swell was at shoulder high by then and getting cleaner.
Wind turned a bit, suited up for a quick sesh on the log but after getting only two waves, I saw color in the water...Damn these well organized contests!
I ran in and grabbed the SUP, had a jersey tossed to me and in I went...right behind Noll hisself...lol.
Only had three waves in the heat but in the end, it was good enough for 7th.
But if I enter the SUP part next year, I will ride some bigger waves on my SUP first, it was shoulder high plus and I had never ridden anything on it bigger than waist high at best.

I sat and watched the final with Sean, Ken Wilson was doing a good job and we all thought he pulled it out for 1st...but you know how these things go.
Rhynn won, he did get a bunch of waves but...

The surf got better as the day went on, from 1400 on, it was as good as SH beachbreak gets. The Oregon kids were out till near darkthirty, the lefts were winders, some good for 100 yards. Friday was a great day for surf, best in a few weeks for me.
Went to sleep happy and very salt encrusted.
Yesterday morning was super clean on the rising tide...and even with 200 surfers on the beach, nary 1 in the water till the contest started at 0700.
I had a later heat so I surfed down the beach a bit in some really fun and lined up lefts and rights.
I didn't sign up till late so I was in the last of the cruiser heats...and since they will let any one with 45.00 enter..there was even a soft topper reppin' yo...wow.
A pink one.
I was the first outside and burned two decent waves till...
Yep, after not losing my board in any session over the last three weeks, I found myself on a collision course with a another guy in the heat...who was paddling for the face rather than the whitewater. I tried to flick the board up and out but that didn't work but I did keep the guy safe from 10' of longboard. In his defense, it was easy to get caught inside and get swept eastward, I know because my board ended up 50 yards past the flag.
Oh well, from then on, it was a scramble to get back outside. I got one more wave and my fourth would have been a sweet left but I buried the nose when I turned for the take off and it went by me.
4th in the heat left me free for the day.
Oh well.
And before I get called a dumbass for not wearing a leash, understand, ya gotta surf like ya surf.
And for me, that means leashless and stoned.
(to be truthful though, I bought a leash on the way down...but...)

Overall, it was a good experience. Brought back a lot of memories but I don't remember being so nervous and anxiety prone.
But I did break a streak as SB has always been a drive-by spot, I have never bothered surfing the place till Thursday but it does get good.

Well, that's my wrap up, it was great to see so many Oregonians, Lars (who I bought this house from), his bro Ollie, Spike, Nolan (nuts), Sean and others who get hazy in all of the dope smoke...lol...
And I got a couple of great t shirts...and some really crappy wax.

See ya.