Gone, Baby, gone....

No updates or shaping till mid-July....
Check back then and see my new shop and glassing set up...and our new home!
Off to the Land of Enchantment...see ya!

Karma fin...

A few months ago, fellow swaylockers Paul Jensen and David Falkenau were trying to do a trade, a 24' paddleboard for a 13'5" longboard. trouble was they live 1100 miles away from each other. They put the word out on sways, trying to get rides north and south for the boards. I chimed in that I could help as I usually make a Swami's trip in late winter. I was able to pick up Paul's paddleboard in Portland and get it 225 miles closer to David before my Swami's trip was canceled. No worries, I knew Santa Cruz was coming up so we made arrangements to pass it along there.
Turns out I was shaping a board for a friend who had another friend coming up from San Diego-and he had room for the 13'5" and picked it up in Carlsbad.
Last week, I dropped off the paddleboard with Rooster in Santa Cruz, the week before, the 13'5" was delivered to my front door.
Rooster will get the paddleboard to Santa Barbara at least, much closer to San Diego than here.
Yesterday, Paul stopped by to pick up the 13'5"...

Here comes the Karma...

I use one of my Father's old fins, a 1968 issue Nuuhiwa fin. Its beat, stressed, worn down on the tip and fits kind of loose. But its a great fin.
I copied the fin myself as a glass on, had it fitted on my 10'0" till the tail and fin met some rocks and ripped the fin base apart (fucked the tail up too).
So yesterday, Paul is showing me his van (super stylie!) and some how fins come up...
And he grabs one out of a drawer and hands it to me..."here, you can have this one"...


Thats the Karma fin on the left, my Fathers old fin in the box and the glass-on I made that was cut off after the tail exploded in the rocks (look closely and you can see the tail has been rebuilt).
Got to say, made my day.
I got a sticker too.
Paul is a straight up guy who builds some very nice boards and has really pushed the envelope when it comes to HWS's.
Thanks Paul, I will treasure this fin for a long time to come.

Stella and I switched bake night to Wednesdays so we could swim on Thursdays, here she is breaking things....
Yep, except for no surf, yesterday was pretty damn good...
See ya and thanks for stopping by.

Way cool

Coffin Ryder....
hat tip the Flying Longboarder....

Head check...

Yep, still there...
Running out to check out the low tide, not for surf because there isn't any but to show Stella whats under us when surfing.
I love rocks.
And I love teaching her these things, reefs, bars, rips, shorebreak.
Safety, ya know.

New Mexico is raging with LEO's busting Rainbows for any little thing.
The first weeks of a Gathering are like that.
This time though, the locals of Cuba are getting caught up in it, DUI's and the like...
Ignore all rumors of roadblocks etc...lol.

Seems I touched a nerve when I didn't name the blog that now features an ad for a magazine I have never seen let alone read.
I still won't name it, no reason.
And like I said its a personal choice if you want to to that-ads on your blog I mean and its a personal choice to not want to read that blog any more.
And...its a personal attack that shows how thin your rationale is for doing it.
You can't claim Soul and then act like a whore.
Not that you are a whore.
For a nickel.
But consider the SOC closed for now, k?

Well, have to run, this will be the last post till July something, have to go get my 'hippie in the woods' on.

See ya and have a great Summer.
Ad free of course.

Not even looking...

Because its crap out.
High pressure returns this week so not much point to it.
30 knots from the North.
Too small in the protected bay.
And simply blown out and messy every where else.
Thats why I stuffed so many waves in my pocket last week.

I remember spinning on a wave as I paddled back out and a buddy saying "you greedy fucker!"
Yep, cuz I knew then that in a week I would be not even looking.

Today...everything is back to the same old shit, not to say that I don't have it made (compared to some) but really, Summer is supposed to be different.
For a surfer anyway.

And to fan some old flames real quick...
Being a local (I am not) is not as much fun as it used to be.
Especially in a town with such a small gene pool.
While there may be 15 surfers here, it never fails that at least 5 want to kill each other, 5 are too busy grumbling about how shitty it is-even when its good and 5 are out surfing.
I fall into the first and the last group.
The kook that owns the surf shop hates me because I mentioned he doesn't have wax for us, he some how equates that fact to 'talking shit about him'.
The local Evangelical surfer hates me because I don't 'share' when in the water.
Apparently I am supposed to let waves go by for the lazy fuckers who don't know that you should paddle to the peak....right.
The local "enforcer" is a somewhat decent surfer (he can get to his feet) but has issues with those who can surf circles around him (me). This guy is a piece of work, rumor monger, booster, etc but when confronted about his stupidity...well, you know.

I often mumble in the water..."I am not from here", I say it with pride.
And let my surfing do the talking.
Its for me, not for you.
Every bottom turn, cutback and flailing Island kickout.
For me.

I was reading Pete at foulweather, thats what put me in this mood this morning.
He and I have much in common though he remains a bit idealistic and is a better street skater. But we have never met, surfed together or otherwise communicated in a friendly manner. I am sure we will some day.
I might even share a set or two.

In other news, I have real issues with surf blogs that run ads, have pop ups or tracking software installed in their templates.
If your blog about surfing is commercial in the first place, I guess thats ok for you.
But if it isn't and suddenly you feel its ok to subject others to your nickel making silliness, wow.
I run Firefox with adblocker so I don't see these ads usually.
But damn if I want to be assaulted with more commercialism when I surf through the blogs I read.
I have been reading Daily Bread for a long time but skip it lately because it seems he is begging for click throughs at the end of every post.
I am all for being informed about a decent surf oriented product that I might want but...there is a line.

My blog here is to document my shaping travails, my surf trips and a bit of this and that.
5 readers or 500, doesn't matter.
Like my surfing, its for me.
Not nickels.

Home is where the Heartbreak is....

Left outta SF yesterday and, as is standard, hit the North wind and rain just after Santa Rosa...right about where the State of Jefferson starts.
We spent Friday at Discovery Kingdom, riding the coasters and checking out the animal shows.
Stella and Crystal love coasters...I prefer slow moving mini-Jeeps...


Surf was good overall on the trip, smaller than predicted but with two swells running, lots of waves to be had. I surfed Indicators and the Slot, First Peak, the Hook, Privates, Sharks and of course, Jacks house (who was out and about without a cane on Thursday).
Indicators gave up the thrills and chills of surfing sans leash, OH and as close to the bluff face as you want to be. The Orangecicle stayed true and never left me floating...never missed the connecting section into the Slot either.
Lots of tube time till my arms gave out from a three session day.
Mornings were low tide and I usually surfed First Peak first and then moved to the Hook for some higher tide freight trains in late morning. The twin fin planing hull was made for that type of wave and the speed runs usually ended with Hail Mary cover-ups on the inside. Afternoons were log time at Jacks and First Peak...Thats the last 25 yards of a 200 yard wave I caught at First Peak, the wife looked up and there I was...legs were already rubber.


I was invited down to Privates for a late session Wednesday, all I can say is that is one sweet log wave, especially with only 4 out and some very consistent conditions.
Here are some pics, the surf shots are all 38th st in the late afternoon high tide mush-and the wife is not a surf photographer...
Thats 10'0" of Log leaving a trench.



Thats a chip dork on my inside, my new name for those clueless board riders who seem to Just. Not. Get. It. This was at Drainpipes.



Privates afternoon glass, 200 yards of glide and nose ride....



Stella getting her pizza fix...and below, Stella getting her shorebreak training.



Another wave at Pipes, late afternoon softness. There were four of us out trading waves till dark.

Stella and I in the line up, discussing peaks and shoulders, kooks and hodads...and chasing sea otters. The swell had dropped over night so her and I paddled around for an hour.
I have some more pics and whatnot but its all the same old shit really.
We have a busy week so again, the blog will go on hiatus till sometime in early July.
We close on a house Friday, New Mexico is on tap after that.
See ya and thanks for stopping by.

Oh, I was given a new rule for dropping in on others-"They gotta a leash on? Go!"
"When they get good enough to surf without one....well..."
Makes sense to me.

Not yet...

I am in San Francisco at the moment, finally going North today but not looking for any more surf...ya know you got some when you don't care if you find more.
SC was great, swell was consistent though not as big as last months trip.
I did a few more spots at the invitation of locals, the extreme Southerly direction had some oddball points working and we had some 4' by 200 yard waves to ourselves for most of Thursday.
The Wife and Child are happy, the Boardwalk gave them plenty to do while I got my surf on.
Thats the news from the road, pics when I get home tomorrow or Monday....
See ya...

Welcome Home...

The 38th Annual Rainbow Gathering of the Tribes is at Parque Venado in the Santa Fe National Forest. 24 miles from Cuba, New Mexico. Oregon 1997

The site is beautiful, altitude is 8,500 - 9,000 feet. Be prepared for cold nights (low 40's to 50 degrees) Warm days in the mid 80's and sunny. 1/2 hour afternoon thunderstorms most days, which are downpours, bring good rain gear.

Directions from Albuquerque: Take I-25 north to U.S. Highway 550. Go north on U.S. Highway 550 approximately 65 miles to State Highway 126 (Cuba, NM). From Cuba, NM take State Road 126 East for 13 + miles to FS Road 103 on left, go 2 miles to FS Road 69 on left then drive 9 miles to where FS Road 69 meets FS Road 70.

Very little surf in the area...lol.

See ya.

Laying low...

Busy few weeks coming up, I have packed away the shaping stuff and will have to be content with what I have in the quiver, the wife has counted boards (I have three) so I won't be building anything for a while.
The southward trip is on, New Mexico for two weeks after that so I doubt there will be much new content here.
Check back in July maybe.
See ya.

Weather...

Yeah, could live with out this shit.
Its almost 74 out and raining hard.
I had resin go off in less than 15 minutes, a bit of a mess to clean up...
Show ya tomorrow...yuck.
I got some surf today, 2' slop at best but something to do. I found a left in the mess that made the walk worth it.
Barely.
In other news, I don;t have any.
Kinda burnt out for the week, its been a tough few, thats for sure.
Anyway, see ya.

Oh, whats with all this leash talk?
Every one on the bandwagon?
23breaths is on it, Doc is on it.
Look, its this:
Wear a leash when you need to.
Dont use it though unless you have to.
If its under 4' and you are wearing a leash, there had better be some danger inside.
A leash causes drag, wraps around your leg, makes you lazy.
A beginner with a leash is the dumbest thing ever, its not like they are in deep water and they usually fall near the board anyway...
Thats my take.
See ya.

Love the weather but where is the surf?

Hot and humid, I like it, thunderstorms and lightning, reminds of some where else.
But not much for surf.
Nice SW in the water but not here.
Getting the MP Speed Egg glassed today and I have the finishing touches to do on my own 6'6" all the while trying to get my trip sorted out.
My new resin came yesterday, kinda green in the jug but it wets out nicely and is water clear when kicked.
What more could you ask for?
Fins.
I need fins. "I am a Hull..."

Any one?
I am looking for some fins, singles...at least 5....

Legs are still down for the count, I guess that shot I took was bad.
Oh well.
On to bigger and better things I guess.
See ya.

Stuff

Been busy healing...I took my longboard, the one with the pinched rails, into my thighs last night and its tough to walk.
I did set out a new template and lo and behold, I find that the guys at PCProgress
have done the same board.
But awesome of course.Art by Stella


I like it as it relates to the Orangecicle but with the single option. The Orangecicle was too small for me but the 6'6" I am building will fit the bill.
Especially when its hooked up to a flex single.
In other news, I sorta got another order for a hull type craft but I don't know if I want that wave hog out on one of my 'catches waves by itself' boards.
I say by themselves because the hulls don't get leash plugs.
Not much more fun than swimming after your board and watching it glide into a wave and into the beach.
I wonder if the boards do that on purpose?
Anyway, rambling on here, life is good.
See ya.

Thats better...

Yesterday was as good as it gets...
Was a bit late to the "Super Epic, All Time, Shoulda been here an Hour Ago" session but got a few anyway...
Saw S with his new hull and he had a smile, loves the board-this is a guy with Liddle and Andreinis hulls in his quiver...not saying mine are as good...but...
I ran up to Florence and delivered the Barklow Pintail, every one was right on time and he and his son were happy with the board and I was impressed with the 'Quantico' parking sticker...Thanks again Mr. Barklow!
I checked two spots on the way back but not much happening so I got home, dealt with the soon to be napping wife and child, dried my suits and snuck out for the afternoon tide push.
13 of my best friends were out already but by the time I hit the water, the crowd was down to 6.
Tag team surfing.
Peaks were working everywhere and the main peak was lining up into the rip with a nice bowl through the middle.
40 waves later...
Yeah, great day.
This week has me doing the glassing on my Velo Hull and Randy's Retro Single Glider as well as shaping out something different, I don't know what yet-shoot me an idea.
Southerly swell is supposed to pick up late this week so I do have a plan in place for a quick trip south, this will be my last till late July when I get back from New Mexico.
New Mexico?
Yeah.
Rainbow Gathering, the National.
Stella's first, my 14th.
Welcome Home
I didn't bother with Wyoming last year as gas was simply too much but this year, Stella is paying for the trip, does it get any better than your six old covering a Summer Vacation?
Colorado 2006...

Nope.
And while I am on a roll, even without cake, I now own a Cannondale Super Deluxe down the Coast Touring bicycle...
Yep, been a good weekend...
See ya, take on the day, will ya?
Oh, the Pintail in Purple...