About to have another go, water has chilled some no doubt, even wore my good booties yesterday.
In any case...
Thats the news, outta here till Monday I guess....
See ya.
Bad computer! Bad!
Lost my 10 year old HP...
Now I have to set this one up.
Some surf, some where, not here really.
Thats all I got...and a headache...
I dislike computers...
Now I have to set this one up.
Some surf, some where, not here really.
Thats all I got...and a headache...
I dislike computers...
That time of year...
When Oregon becomes a surfers paradise...
Sort of.
Big tide swings, swells out of nowhere, warm water in the morning, cold in the afternoon...
Its been epic or near epic 'round these southern parts.
Love it.
I have the first lam down on my longboard, have a ways to go on the other three, a SUP order is in so I am making up a custom blank for it (I don't have anything 29" wide so...I got to make one).
A few days a go, I clicked on something while out in the water.
I was taking off on the second wave of the set, the first wave clipped its surfer and left him right in the line I needed to make the wave...I had a choice, pull back and let it go just in case something happened and I kooked it and ran in to the guy or make eye contact, indicate my line and let him adjust to it.
Thats what I like about being in the water with seasoned surfers, they know what to do.
We looked at each other, I popped up, stalled, a little fade to the left, he had time to regroup and paddle for the shoulder, I made the wave with grace and every one was happy.
But how many times do we see the opposite happen? Guys who paddle into your line or worse, ditch their board as you go by?
Yuck.
So happy I don't see it here.
I was SUP'pin the other day in some really weak shit, 8" to 10" inches at the peak...really.
Anyway, this tourist kid from Oklahoma is swimming sans suit or common sense, his folks were on the beach taking pics of all the pretty we have here. I paddled over to the kid, ditched my paddle and asked him if he wanted to surf...
"Oh HELL YEAH!"
So I stuck him on the SUP and pushed him into a few waves while his parents took his picture.
He is so going to get some when he gets back to Big Cabin, Oklahoma...
His parents were as happy as he was.
Share the stoke.
I didn't miss a thing.
Well, thats all I got.
Life is good.
Might be waves.
See ya.
Sort of.
Big tide swings, swells out of nowhere, warm water in the morning, cold in the afternoon...
Its been epic or near epic 'round these southern parts.
Love it.
I have the first lam down on my longboard, have a ways to go on the other three, a SUP order is in so I am making up a custom blank for it (I don't have anything 29" wide so...I got to make one).
A few days a go, I clicked on something while out in the water.
I was taking off on the second wave of the set, the first wave clipped its surfer and left him right in the line I needed to make the wave...I had a choice, pull back and let it go just in case something happened and I kooked it and ran in to the guy or make eye contact, indicate my line and let him adjust to it.
Thats what I like about being in the water with seasoned surfers, they know what to do.
We looked at each other, I popped up, stalled, a little fade to the left, he had time to regroup and paddle for the shoulder, I made the wave with grace and every one was happy.
But how many times do we see the opposite happen? Guys who paddle into your line or worse, ditch their board as you go by?
Yuck.
So happy I don't see it here.
I was SUP'pin the other day in some really weak shit, 8" to 10" inches at the peak...really.
Anyway, this tourist kid from Oklahoma is swimming sans suit or common sense, his folks were on the beach taking pics of all the pretty we have here. I paddled over to the kid, ditched my paddle and asked him if he wanted to surf...
"Oh HELL YEAH!"
So I stuck him on the SUP and pushed him into a few waves while his parents took his picture.
He is so going to get some when he gets back to Big Cabin, Oklahoma...
His parents were as happy as he was.
Share the stoke.
I didn't miss a thing.
Well, thats all I got.
Life is good.
Might be waves.
See ya.
Outta here...
The surf, it calls...
Packed and racked, soon to be en route to a spot that is still a rumor at this point (nice pun, kook!) but sources say...that its worth the trip and hike.
Speaking of blowing up secrets, I hear there are mutterings about a certain area to the North becoming exposed...cuz terms like 'uniformed young men', come on...
Let it because its wide open and if every surfer and his house dress wearing girlfriend from Portland can find it, it ain't a secret.
And the only locals there wear fur coats.
And its just as fickle as the rest of the Coast up here.
Which leads some how to...
If you have to use a rope to get to your spot...
Along with a set of snippers for the brush...
See bear scat on the hike in...
Carry a sidearm in your board bag...
Have an EPIRB pocket on your Hotline...
Chances are you are on the right path to being a surfer type in Oregon.
It was a tough week, perfect surf for a few days, 2 hour windows at a spot that rewards only those with Good Karma.
Some little SF art hipster twit, you may know the type, "been to school for a year or two and knows he has seen it all", he even told me to 'educate' myself (never mind that I have been surfing longer than he has been alive, I couldn't possibly know what I am talking about)...while talking about surfboard designs...yeah, tough week.
And look for Larmo in the sky because he is mind surfing Oregon.
Maybe it was Larmo who sanded some one's shoes...
A few days ago, I got to surf alone for a few hours, perfect little waves, offshore winds and sunny. The water was so clear, you could count the starfish on the rocks below as you surfed the wave...some one else got it the next day and mentioned the same thing, I don't know why I find this so cool but it is for some reason.
Anyway, third cup has kicked in, time to go in search of...
See ya and have a good weekend...
Newest member of the family...
And even chickens pick on my boards...
Packed and racked, soon to be en route to a spot that is still a rumor at this point (nice pun, kook!) but sources say...that its worth the trip and hike.
Speaking of blowing up secrets, I hear there are mutterings about a certain area to the North becoming exposed...cuz terms like 'uniformed young men', come on...
Let it because its wide open and if every surfer and his house dress wearing girlfriend from Portland can find it, it ain't a secret.
And the only locals there wear fur coats.
And its just as fickle as the rest of the Coast up here.
Which leads some how to...
If you have to use a rope to get to your spot...
Along with a set of snippers for the brush...
See bear scat on the hike in...
Carry a sidearm in your board bag...
Have an EPIRB pocket on your Hotline...
Chances are you are on the right path to being a surfer type in Oregon.
It was a tough week, perfect surf for a few days, 2 hour windows at a spot that rewards only those with Good Karma.
Some little SF art hipster twit, you may know the type, "been to school for a year or two and knows he has seen it all", he even told me to 'educate' myself (never mind that I have been surfing longer than he has been alive, I couldn't possibly know what I am talking about)...while talking about surfboard designs...yeah, tough week.
And look for Larmo in the sky because he is mind surfing Oregon.
Maybe it was Larmo who sanded some one's shoes...
A few days ago, I got to surf alone for a few hours, perfect little waves, offshore winds and sunny. The water was so clear, you could count the starfish on the rocks below as you surfed the wave...some one else got it the next day and mentioned the same thing, I don't know why I find this so cool but it is for some reason.
Anyway, third cup has kicked in, time to go in search of...
See ya and have a good weekend...
Newest member of the family...
And even chickens pick on my boards...
Here and gone...
Great week for surf, been busy with two sessions a day, SUP time, super session alone yesterday in 4' perfection...never better.
Hanging out but not this weekend, sorta but traveling closer to home with the option...what?Means I am surfing a super secret getaway, if its good, I will stay there, if not so good, home again, home again...
See ya.
Hanging out but not this weekend, sorta but traveling closer to home with the option...what?Means I am surfing a super secret getaway, if its good, I will stay there, if not so good, home again, home again...
See ya.
Sometimes, its just as much fun...
...to sit and watch.
Sort of some surf today, not quite good enough to paddle but close. Thats the deal when you live on the Coast, you can take it or leave it some days.
Today, just didn't really care. Sun was out, warm on the beach, friends about, talk boards, life, 'surf' hipster art fucks, posers, boards that are a waste of money and other sundry topics.
Some of you may note that little widget over there on the right, you might, given the time of day or night, notice a proliferation of incoming visitors from Portland...
lol.
I'm gonna drop the widget in a few days but a buddy didn't believe me when I told him I get more hits from a city 90 miles from the nearest wave than anywhere else in Oregon.
Maybe they know something up there that I don't.
Nah.
Tomorrow is a surf day regardless, my shoulder is healed up or close enough anyway, I am core, ya know?
Also...
I will be sharing more stories and what not here in the future, hold your breath, k?
But with shaping being so slow and me not wanting to give out 'surf reports' or have this blog become yet another shitpig, seems I got to fill this page up with something.
I write perhaps 5k words a day, some here, mostly some where else.
I don't care to let retroshaper simply fade away...well maybe, just not anytime soon.
In other news, I have a few boards in for repair-none of my shapes mind you...
But some bad delams and stress cracks that need attention.
Delams are bad news, more boards break from having delams than you think.
After, um, educating myself...hello?
...a board with delams in the middle of the deck will spread any forces it encounters out to the rail...crack, broken board.
Fix your decks.
See ya.
Sort of some surf today, not quite good enough to paddle but close. Thats the deal when you live on the Coast, you can take it or leave it some days.
Today, just didn't really care. Sun was out, warm on the beach, friends about, talk boards, life, 'surf' hipster art fucks, posers, boards that are a waste of money and other sundry topics.
Some of you may note that little widget over there on the right, you might, given the time of day or night, notice a proliferation of incoming visitors from Portland...
lol.
I'm gonna drop the widget in a few days but a buddy didn't believe me when I told him I get more hits from a city 90 miles from the nearest wave than anywhere else in Oregon.
Maybe they know something up there that I don't.
Nah.
Tomorrow is a surf day regardless, my shoulder is healed up or close enough anyway, I am core, ya know?
Also...
I will be sharing more stories and what not here in the future, hold your breath, k?
But with shaping being so slow and me not wanting to give out 'surf reports' or have this blog become yet another shitpig, seems I got to fill this page up with something.
I write perhaps 5k words a day, some here, mostly some where else.
I don't care to let retroshaper simply fade away...well maybe, just not anytime soon.
In other news, I have a few boards in for repair-none of my shapes mind you...
But some bad delams and stress cracks that need attention.
Delams are bad news, more boards break from having delams than you think.
After, um, educating myself...hello?
...a board with delams in the middle of the deck will spread any forces it encounters out to the rail...crack, broken board.
Fix your decks.
See ya.
Foam...resin...glass...fin...fins...
Had B over last night for some final tweaking of his board, he is super stoked to have finally 'shaped' his own...wait till he is wrist deep in lam resin thats kicking faster than he would like and I will ask him again how much fun it is making your own surfboard.
Then I will ask him again when he finishes the third hour of sanding the hot coat...
If it was easy, every body would do it.
Hoping to get the shaping done on the WB Flyer today so maybe we can glass them both by the weekend. The board is my first quad set up, a design I don't believe in but I ain't the one riding it...
My special, two days only lightweight copy will be glassed then too, nothing special, in fact, I want to ride it a week and then park it, use it two days and then burn the fucker on the beach.
I will explain more later when the plan comes together...or I fall flat on my face...
There are three threads at sways right now about length and mini fish and Simmons influenced boards...
One interesting comment...
There is a comment about how smaller, tighter curved boards fit better in small waves, that I can get my feeble mind around. But you still have to get that flowing entry or start to pump the board as soon as your feet hit the deck.
Discussing board length or design on the innernets is always interesting...discussions at sways are for the most part civil...
Joe Roper (or some one impersonating him) chimed in on Sissy's post about his new 4'11"...after reading my comment on the board and its suitability in Oregon.
Not wanting to trash sissie blog, let me pick this posters comment apart...
I mentioned Larry Mabile doesn't surf in Oregon-I stated this because I feel its important that a shaper know the conditions the board he is custom shaping will be used in. A bit backhanded I know, I mean who comes to Oregon to surf?
Here is the comment...(italics are his words)
"Larmo does surf Oregon just not in person"
Yeah, and I do Salma all day, everyday just not in person.
"and to say a board lacking specific details like hull, flat tail rocker, S deck, etcetera means it is not a Simmons influenced design but something else entirely seems silly."
Um, if it doesn't have any of those things then its getting pretty far fetched to say its even related to a mini Simmons influenced surfboard.
Oh, Simmons built surfboards, the White Pony is a surfboard, I get it.
I chalk this up to marketing. I am well aware of the need to sell more surfboards, every board is the next big thing, trust me, you need this new board design if you want to rip.
I use this line all the time.
Doesn't work for me.
"Influences affect aspects but don't rule design necessarily, Retro said himself that many Simmons "influenced I presume" hulls have moved on to a different fin base."
I did the half moon fins on three of my mini's and the Paipo, they work ok till it gets steep and/or HH, then they tend to skip and lose drive. After talking to Palandrani at length and seeing what Ace, Ryan (P38) and others were doing, I left the half moon behind and went with another template and material. The difference is apparent in hold and drive, apples to better apples. What rules design is progression.
The four I have shaped using the new template fins are faster and exhibit more hold in steep waves. Kane Garden produced some of the best retro fishes out there, not one has half moons.
Later, a classic troll post...
"You are typing but not saying anything,
Become more educated, rant less."
And you are reading but not comprehending my friend.
My comment was no rant, you want a rant, you should see my political blog.
I admit I hate this kind of comment. Just a classic case of teh stoopid.
"This board is not low volume."
A 4'11" is low volume, period. At that length, it can't be anything else.
Its little.
"I am not too old...my board is shorter than I am" Sickdog.
Thats from the sways thread.
Now, about 9 months ago, I started going shorter on my personal boards and I will admit that it crossed my mind many times that I was only going shorter to prove I still had it. I was out one day with a guy I surf with a lot. He paddled over and told me "I didn't know you rode shortboards".
Actually, I hadn't bothered with anything shorter than 7'10" for 10 years.
Older surfers tend to go longer to make up for the skills we lose to age and responsibilities.
I know I did.
I have always had a longboard in the quiver from day one but they were never my go to unless it was small.
I am back to that approach now, the right board for the conditions in front of me.
Well, I am going to let it go, I wasn't meaning to pass any sort of judgment on sissies new board, good for him I think and I am sorry if any one misconstrued my comments
on it design and length.
Information sharing is good though, regardless of the pissy people.
Now, I have to go educate myself though it may be too late...lol.
Oh, one more thing...
Surfboards are addicting...I get the whole quiver thing even if it doesn't fit in with my ideals of less is more.
See ya.
Then I will ask him again when he finishes the third hour of sanding the hot coat...
If it was easy, every body would do it.
Hoping to get the shaping done on the WB Flyer today so maybe we can glass them both by the weekend. The board is my first quad set up, a design I don't believe in but I ain't the one riding it...
My special, two days only lightweight copy will be glassed then too, nothing special, in fact, I want to ride it a week and then park it, use it two days and then burn the fucker on the beach.
I will explain more later when the plan comes together...or I fall flat on my face...
There are three threads at sways right now about length and mini fish and Simmons influenced boards...
One interesting comment...
"Riding a board intended for weak surf that is several inches shorter than your good wave board makes little sense" (op's statement)
"Actually this sentence above makes no sense to me, if you could see the waves I get here except for the low pressures of winter and 10-20 typhoons (avg) a year you would begin thinking about fish n mini simmons if you like to surf anyway. It is difficult enough getting six feet+ of rail majestically up down n back around a 12-24 inch wave that curls for about three to four seconds."
I don't understand what the guy is saying...if you are trying to get waves that are 1' to 2' and have face for 4 seconds and in that 4 seconds you want to go "up down n back around', one might think that an early entry into the wave would help set you up for that 4 seconds of face. A little board will not give you that.There is a comment about how smaller, tighter curved boards fit better in small waves, that I can get my feeble mind around. But you still have to get that flowing entry or start to pump the board as soon as your feet hit the deck.
Discussing board length or design on the innernets is always interesting...discussions at sways are for the most part civil...
Joe Roper (or some one impersonating him) chimed in on Sissy's post about his new 4'11"...after reading my comment on the board and its suitability in Oregon.
Not wanting to trash sissie blog, let me pick this posters comment apart...
I mentioned Larry Mabile doesn't surf in Oregon-I stated this because I feel its important that a shaper know the conditions the board he is custom shaping will be used in. A bit backhanded I know, I mean who comes to Oregon to surf?
Here is the comment...(italics are his words)
"Larmo does surf Oregon just not in person"
Yeah, and I do Salma all day, everyday just not in person.
"and to say a board lacking specific details like hull, flat tail rocker, S deck, etcetera means it is not a Simmons influenced design but something else entirely seems silly."
Um, if it doesn't have any of those things then its getting pretty far fetched to say its even related to a mini Simmons influenced surfboard.
Oh, Simmons built surfboards, the White Pony is a surfboard, I get it.
I chalk this up to marketing. I am well aware of the need to sell more surfboards, every board is the next big thing, trust me, you need this new board design if you want to rip.
I use this line all the time.
Doesn't work for me.
"Influences affect aspects but don't rule design necessarily, Retro said himself that many Simmons "influenced I presume" hulls have moved on to a different fin base."
I did the half moon fins on three of my mini's and the Paipo, they work ok till it gets steep and/or HH, then they tend to skip and lose drive. After talking to Palandrani at length and seeing what Ace, Ryan (P38) and others were doing, I left the half moon behind and went with another template and material. The difference is apparent in hold and drive, apples to better apples. What rules design is progression.
The four I have shaped using the new template fins are faster and exhibit more hold in steep waves. Kane Garden produced some of the best retro fishes out there, not one has half moons.
Later, a classic troll post...
"You are typing but not saying anything,
Become more educated, rant less."
And you are reading but not comprehending my friend.
My comment was no rant, you want a rant, you should see my political blog.
I admit I hate this kind of comment. Just a classic case of teh stoopid.
"This board is not low volume."
A 4'11" is low volume, period. At that length, it can't be anything else.
Its little.
"I am not too old...my board is shorter than I am" Sickdog.
Thats from the sways thread.
Now, about 9 months ago, I started going shorter on my personal boards and I will admit that it crossed my mind many times that I was only going shorter to prove I still had it. I was out one day with a guy I surf with a lot. He paddled over and told me "I didn't know you rode shortboards".
Actually, I hadn't bothered with anything shorter than 7'10" for 10 years.
Older surfers tend to go longer to make up for the skills we lose to age and responsibilities.
I know I did.
I have always had a longboard in the quiver from day one but they were never my go to unless it was small.
I am back to that approach now, the right board for the conditions in front of me.
Well, I am going to let it go, I wasn't meaning to pass any sort of judgment on sissies new board, good for him I think and I am sorry if any one misconstrued my comments
on it design and length.
Information sharing is good though, regardless of the pissy people.
Now, I have to go educate myself though it may be too late...lol.
Oh, one more thing...
Surfboards are addicting...I get the whole quiver thing even if it doesn't fit in with my ideals of less is more.
See ya.
Proned Starfish...
Man, I am sore today, I took off late on a bomb last night and instead of popping up, I stayed down till the explosion and then rode it out on my belly...only to pearl rather hard and get washed up. I didn't think much of it, just a blown drop...but man, I got rubbed. My shoulders and back got wrenched I guess...thank goodness for the spa.
I needed a bit more foam last evening but thats a whole 'nother post...
Stella did some wacking yesterday at Aurora's b-day...
The chickens ate an apple...again...
And the Bunny is just chill...
Motherfucker has it made...go on, hate me...lol!
See ya kids...
Oh, one down...
9'0" by 22.5", 3" thick, pintail, 17"n,15"t, flat to belly to slight v, 60/40 all the way to semi tucked at 24"...single cuz side bites* are for sissies.
*not really, use them if you need to.
I needed a bit more foam last evening but thats a whole 'nother post...
Stella did some wacking yesterday at Aurora's b-day...
The chickens ate an apple...again...
And the Bunny is just chill...
Motherfucker has it made...go on, hate me...lol!
See ya kids...
Oh, one down...
9'0" by 22.5", 3" thick, pintail, 17"n,15"t, flat to belly to slight v, 60/40 all the way to semi tucked at 24"...single cuz side bites* are for sissies.*not really, use them if you need to.
Boom
Yep, it was good.
Tired.
Sore.
Lots of steep drops including one very late take off that had all the makings of a TOAD.
Heavy currents and wash, some bump but if you know the place, some very good waves.
Right Mr. Cranberry?
I pulled a 'Blue Crush' on my buddy, told him to not be afraid, just "paddle into the pit man..."
He scored, almost ran me over once.
So...HH, a little bump, four out...for two hours.
Crash.
Boom.
See ya.
Tired.
Sore.
Lots of steep drops including one very late take off that had all the makings of a TOAD.
Heavy currents and wash, some bump but if you know the place, some very good waves.
Right Mr. Cranberry?
I pulled a 'Blue Crush' on my buddy, told him to not be afraid, just "paddle into the pit man..."
He scored, almost ran me over once.
So...HH, a little bump, four out...for two hours.
Crash.
Boom.
See ya.
New egg shapes
Here is Stella showing off our newest egg shapes, one big'un, one little'un...
Of course, I broke them both...
Yep, double yoker, might be a twin fin...
One of our chickens lays a bomber every other day...
This is this morning haul, three leftover from last night and six this morning.
Hmmm...eggs.
Of course, I broke them both...
Yep, double yoker, might be a twin fin...
One of our chickens lays a bomber every other day...
This is this morning haul, three leftover from last night and six this morning.
Hmmm...eggs.
"We shouldn't be laughing..."
Three of us got together last night after putting our respective kids, spouses and critters to bed. Had a few puffs and hit the shed to outline three boards for shaping later today today.
We outlined a 'fast' quad pin at 6'10" for a heavy local break, a 9'0" Bing shape for me and a mini Simmons at 5'8" for a local kid who weighs all of 120 lbs.
While toking the last of the home made hash under the apple tree, I brought up the recent purchase by a surfer up in Portland, the 4'11" by 22" something fish thing, I asked if anyone had ever ridden anything so small.
No.
Now, I rode a Source Scrambler at 5'2", EPS, back in April while in SC, in fast and lined up semi-point HH surf. The board was way too small for me, I could flick it and do kick turns at will, pop the fins out and spin it around in circles till I threw up. That board was 23 wide and a hull, 50/50 to 60/40 rails, hard bladed out of the tail. It caught waves ok, a little late but then again, I weigh out at 165. The only real beef I had with the board was paddling back to the line up....I was swimming the thing more than paddling it.
B related a single he rode from Schroff back in the day, 5'5" by maybe 22", he recalled the board loved to turn but paddling was a joke, too little foam for the paddle back out and positioning in the crowded line ups of North County.
My other buddy is one of those guys, like so many up here, that ride only longboards because of the longer paddles we have locally. Never steps to the nose or surfs it in any traditional way, just rides boards longer to get waves and then tries to hustle the 9'6" around like a shorter board. He will never step down to something shorter, in his mind and for his style of surfing, longer is better.
I agree. No way would he have fun on a 6'6" Simmons, he would not get any waves.
Most of us in Oregon know this type of surfer, recreational, won't paddle out if its under 2' or over 6'. Its another way of doing it I guess but I cringe when I see perfect set ups for ten overs and the surfer is stuck in the middle of the board trying to pump it down the line.
With a leash flapping behind him.
Now, I throw my 10' around a bit, been known to bury 8' of rail on it but then again, I have been riding logs since 1967, when that was all that was around. If you wanted to turn one, you learned the technique or fell trying. I have taken a 9'6" vertical and got it back around but that was way back in '03, lol...to old to do it now.
R is a decent surfer, rides a 7'10" most of the time, has no problems surfing it how he wants to surf it. And we all agreed that that was key.
Before you shape or buy a board, ask yourself, what do you want to do on the waves you get?
Most guys under 30 want to rip and slash, take what they do on a skateboard and do the same things while surfing.
I totally get this. I am bumping 50 and skate Myrtle Point, carving, kick turns, lip slides (not an air guy). But when I ride my 6'0" in clean surf, I am more into driving turns with speed and deep positioning in the pocket. I want to go fast. Hit the lip? Sure thing, as long as I am coming out of a full rail bottom turn at speed.
Double pumps don't count.
Carve hard into a roundhouse, full rail cutback? Hell yeah, especially at speed where halfway through the cutback, you feel the fins tweaking and your thighs max out, ready to un-weight for the rebound.
Full compression.
So we all agreed that we should all ride boards that are designed for the style of surfing the individual wants to do.
But the next issue was conditions....
Which leads back to the longer is better syndrome, especially here in Oregon.
Our local beachie has about a 200 yard paddle out on a 4' day, thats to get to the line up.
None of us three would bother with a board under 6'0" for that. Staying in position alone would take lots of time and energy, never mind the paddle back out after getting a wave. I occasionally ride my Orangecicle in those conditions, its nice to be able to duck dive but in the end, I get far fewer waves because of the 10 minute swim/paddle back out ( the other locals don't miss me, lol).
Its all a compromise.
How do you want to surf?
Where do you surf?
How often do you surf?
What's the wave like 90 percent of the time?
What are your abilities now?
Those questions answered honestly will lead to the perfect one board quiver.
Right.
I live ten minutes from the beach and still carry two boards at all times.
So we all passed a lighthearted judgment on a 4'11" in Oregon surf, not for us nor most adults we know.
More foam is not a sin, either is less.
Every board is just another way of doing it, surfing I mean.
True, there are rippers out there riding sub 5'0"'s, hell, there are guys riding wooden planks that are 6' long and 16" wide and having fun.
But none of them live and surf on the Oregon Coast.
There may be one guy in Portland though...(luv ya Sissy)
Well, pictures today of our shaping progress on the boards we cut out last night, B has his first date with a planer at 10 am, I will let him skin the blank before pulling the cord...power tools are dangerous ya know.
And if he fucks up, look for a 4'11" for sale here...lol.
See ya in the water.
We outlined a 'fast' quad pin at 6'10" for a heavy local break, a 9'0" Bing shape for me and a mini Simmons at 5'8" for a local kid who weighs all of 120 lbs.
While toking the last of the home made hash under the apple tree, I brought up the recent purchase by a surfer up in Portland, the 4'11" by 22" something fish thing, I asked if anyone had ever ridden anything so small.
No.
Now, I rode a Source Scrambler at 5'2", EPS, back in April while in SC, in fast and lined up semi-point HH surf. The board was way too small for me, I could flick it and do kick turns at will, pop the fins out and spin it around in circles till I threw up. That board was 23 wide and a hull, 50/50 to 60/40 rails, hard bladed out of the tail. It caught waves ok, a little late but then again, I weigh out at 165. The only real beef I had with the board was paddling back to the line up....I was swimming the thing more than paddling it.
B related a single he rode from Schroff back in the day, 5'5" by maybe 22", he recalled the board loved to turn but paddling was a joke, too little foam for the paddle back out and positioning in the crowded line ups of North County.
My other buddy is one of those guys, like so many up here, that ride only longboards because of the longer paddles we have locally. Never steps to the nose or surfs it in any traditional way, just rides boards longer to get waves and then tries to hustle the 9'6" around like a shorter board. He will never step down to something shorter, in his mind and for his style of surfing, longer is better.
I agree. No way would he have fun on a 6'6" Simmons, he would not get any waves.
Most of us in Oregon know this type of surfer, recreational, won't paddle out if its under 2' or over 6'. Its another way of doing it I guess but I cringe when I see perfect set ups for ten overs and the surfer is stuck in the middle of the board trying to pump it down the line.
With a leash flapping behind him.
Now, I throw my 10' around a bit, been known to bury 8' of rail on it but then again, I have been riding logs since 1967, when that was all that was around. If you wanted to turn one, you learned the technique or fell trying. I have taken a 9'6" vertical and got it back around but that was way back in '03, lol...to old to do it now.
R is a decent surfer, rides a 7'10" most of the time, has no problems surfing it how he wants to surf it. And we all agreed that that was key.
Before you shape or buy a board, ask yourself, what do you want to do on the waves you get?
Most guys under 30 want to rip and slash, take what they do on a skateboard and do the same things while surfing.
I totally get this. I am bumping 50 and skate Myrtle Point, carving, kick turns, lip slides (not an air guy). But when I ride my 6'0" in clean surf, I am more into driving turns with speed and deep positioning in the pocket. I want to go fast. Hit the lip? Sure thing, as long as I am coming out of a full rail bottom turn at speed.
Double pumps don't count.
Carve hard into a roundhouse, full rail cutback? Hell yeah, especially at speed where halfway through the cutback, you feel the fins tweaking and your thighs max out, ready to un-weight for the rebound.
Full compression.
So we all agreed that we should all ride boards that are designed for the style of surfing the individual wants to do.
But the next issue was conditions....
Which leads back to the longer is better syndrome, especially here in Oregon.
Our local beachie has about a 200 yard paddle out on a 4' day, thats to get to the line up.
None of us three would bother with a board under 6'0" for that. Staying in position alone would take lots of time and energy, never mind the paddle back out after getting a wave. I occasionally ride my Orangecicle in those conditions, its nice to be able to duck dive but in the end, I get far fewer waves because of the 10 minute swim/paddle back out ( the other locals don't miss me, lol).
Its all a compromise.
How do you want to surf?
Where do you surf?
How often do you surf?
What's the wave like 90 percent of the time?
What are your abilities now?
Those questions answered honestly will lead to the perfect one board quiver.
Right.
I live ten minutes from the beach and still carry two boards at all times.
So we all passed a lighthearted judgment on a 4'11" in Oregon surf, not for us nor most adults we know.
More foam is not a sin, either is less.
Every board is just another way of doing it, surfing I mean.
True, there are rippers out there riding sub 5'0"'s, hell, there are guys riding wooden planks that are 6' long and 16" wide and having fun.
But none of them live and surf on the Oregon Coast.
There may be one guy in Portland though...(luv ya Sissy)
Well, pictures today of our shaping progress on the boards we cut out last night, B has his first date with a planer at 10 am, I will let him skin the blank before pulling the cord...power tools are dangerous ya know.
And if he fucks up, look for a 4'11" for sale here...lol.
See ya in the water.
Boutique...
Its not just for skaters any more.
I spent the morning working with a buddy, hard ass grunt work pulling ivy and shoveling mulch. I do this about every Friday, keeps my core strength up and makes me remember how it feels to get blisters and splinters. I like dirty work.
But now, I am sun stroked, it was at least 80 up the river, no place for a coastal local.
I took a cold shower and sat out under my apple tree for a bit, pondering surfboards and shaping.
In the last year, my personal boards have gone from all longboards to one log and two hulls at 6'0" and 6'10". I want to do a gunnier board for winter but need to replace the triple 10' first, I need a board done by the 1st of October.
I guess I could hit Shelter and cough up 990.00 for the latest shape that promises to make me Tudor.
Or I could whip out a blank and just do it myself.
For 150.00.
No waiting.
Except for the resin to kick.
And it won't make me Tudor.
Promise.
There is some surf at the moment, I got the heads up an hour ago but Stella is home from school and Crystal is deep in Bridge, Oregon.
Oh well, always tomorrow.
Maybe I should get started on a new board.
Yeah, think I will.
As soon as it cools down.
See ya.
I spent the morning working with a buddy, hard ass grunt work pulling ivy and shoveling mulch. I do this about every Friday, keeps my core strength up and makes me remember how it feels to get blisters and splinters. I like dirty work.
But now, I am sun stroked, it was at least 80 up the river, no place for a coastal local.
I took a cold shower and sat out under my apple tree for a bit, pondering surfboards and shaping.
In the last year, my personal boards have gone from all longboards to one log and two hulls at 6'0" and 6'10". I want to do a gunnier board for winter but need to replace the triple 10' first, I need a board done by the 1st of October.
I guess I could hit Shelter and cough up 990.00 for the latest shape that promises to make me Tudor.
Or I could whip out a blank and just do it myself.
For 150.00.
No waiting.
Except for the resin to kick.
And it won't make me Tudor.
Promise.
There is some surf at the moment, I got the heads up an hour ago but Stella is home from school and Crystal is deep in Bridge, Oregon.
Oh well, always tomorrow.
Maybe I should get started on a new board.
Yeah, think I will.
As soon as it cools down.
See ya.
Got some...
Excellent beachbreak two days in a row, yesterday was an 'almost' but got stoned instead on some good hash we made.
Now I am out of the water for the next four days, Crystal is off to Belly Dance Camp and Stella and I are heading a little south for some camping.
Like south of my back door.
Stella started 1st grade this week and for the first time in six years, I have free time.
I know, I don't work or do much else but shape, surf and chase chickens but with Crystal and I despising day care, one of us has always been home with Stella.
Now, she leaves at 8am and is home at 3pm.
Geez, its weird not having that responsibility.
So with all of this free time...right.
Chickens...love them, 6 eggs a day right now, neighbors are happy and I discovered that chickens do make good pets. Stella and I were laying in the back yard at dusk last night waiting for the bats to show, we had 5 chickens gathered around our feet, roosting.
Well, thats the news from Rancho De Pollo...
Have a good weekend, see ya.
Now I am out of the water for the next four days, Crystal is off to Belly Dance Camp and Stella and I are heading a little south for some camping.
Like south of my back door.
Stella started 1st grade this week and for the first time in six years, I have free time.
I know, I don't work or do much else but shape, surf and chase chickens but with Crystal and I despising day care, one of us has always been home with Stella.
Now, she leaves at 8am and is home at 3pm.
Geez, its weird not having that responsibility.
So with all of this free time...right.
Chickens...love them, 6 eggs a day right now, neighbors are happy and I discovered that chickens do make good pets. Stella and I were laying in the back yard at dusk last night waiting for the bats to show, we had 5 chickens gathered around our feet, roosting.
Well, thats the news from Rancho De Pollo...
Have a good weekend, see ya.
WTF?
As fast as the swell came up, it went down...
Was hoping to score some early morning leftovers so I hit it at darkthirty, only instead of climbing into a cold, wet wetsuit, I got to sit and watch the swell drop by the minute...
Oh well, my hot tub is hot so there is that.
This is my first winter having a hot tub spa thing, I could get used to this...
But the wife is already whining about the sand in it, hey, thats what the filter is for!
Had a couchsurfer here last night too, a guy from BC who is riding down to SD on his bicycle. He was up and rolling at 0500, looking at Brookings by this evening, a 120 mile day!
Yikes!
For those on the cheap travel tip, couchsurfing.com is a great way to travel and meet people, find alternatives to camping/hotels and otherwise contribute to the growing Socialism that is sweeping our Country...lol.
Well, I gots nuthin' else...
See ya.
Was hoping to score some early morning leftovers so I hit it at darkthirty, only instead of climbing into a cold, wet wetsuit, I got to sit and watch the swell drop by the minute...
Oh well, my hot tub is hot so there is that.
This is my first winter having a hot tub spa thing, I could get used to this...
But the wife is already whining about the sand in it, hey, thats what the filter is for!
Had a couchsurfer here last night too, a guy from BC who is riding down to SD on his bicycle. He was up and rolling at 0500, looking at Brookings by this evening, a 120 mile day!
Yikes!
For those on the cheap travel tip, couchsurfing.com is a great way to travel and meet people, find alternatives to camping/hotels and otherwise contribute to the growing Socialism that is sweeping our Country...lol.
Well, I gots nuthin' else...
See ya.
Uh, yeah. Got a little...
And I mean little...
Swell came up 6' in three hours, buoys at 13', wind at 25 knots from the southwest, just perfect...
Beats nothing.
See ya.
oh, 9'4" by 30". 26" and 18", 4 3/4", single
And we are back....
Sorry kids, wanted to share some surf info with just a few people and this was the best place to do it.
Real secret agent type stuff so if I let every one in on it, well....you know.
(the post is gone, relax SoOr/NorCal'ers)
In other news, its raining and has been since 0200.
Yay.
South wind at 8 knots due to gust to 20 tonight.
More yay.
10' plus by tonight.
Yay.
But....there will be waves today for me.
Any guesses as to how this turned out?
After my Big Wave Sissy post, my Father related two stories to me...
I didn't recall getting rescued by him when I was 9, after getting worked at what was then Salt Creek. (I guess it still is)
Busted ear drum, two broken teeth and a broken nose.
I didn't remember getting swept through the old wooden Topanga lifeguard tower during a major swell when I was 11, broke my ankle, nose again and two fingers.
(I think I should have quit surfing a long time ago)
He also mentioned an old timer he used to surf with who was one of the Pioneers at the Ranch.
Dad said the guy carried punching bag balloons and when he lost his board, he would blow a balloon up and use it to float in.
Scared of drowning.
Ok.
Drowning isn't my worry, its the beating that gets you to that point that I don't care for.
I did board repair yesterday, the 10' had some delam on the rear deck so I fixed that up. I also found pressure dings...in front of the comp line.
Lol.
We did a friends dings at the same time and he asked why I ride such a beat up board when I should be riding a badass resin tinted, wood tailblocked deluxe cruiser, entirely hand shaped and glassed by me.
Um, because I don't have to? When the 10' finally goes, maybe then but for now, I have what I need.
I find no pride in possessions.
Skills, yes.
Ain't one of those surfers with ten boards in the garage, still just 3 in rotation plus a boogie.
Not dissing those with 'board whore syndrome', thats another way of doing it.
Just not for me.
In other news, I gots none, go on about your weekend kids, have fun, be kind.
See ya.
Real secret agent type stuff so if I let every one in on it, well....you know.
(the post is gone, relax SoOr/NorCal'ers)
In other news, its raining and has been since 0200.
Yay.
South wind at 8 knots due to gust to 20 tonight.
More yay.
10' plus by tonight.
Yay.
But....there will be waves today for me.
Any guesses as to how this turned out?After my Big Wave Sissy post, my Father related two stories to me...
I didn't recall getting rescued by him when I was 9, after getting worked at what was then Salt Creek. (I guess it still is)
Busted ear drum, two broken teeth and a broken nose.
I didn't remember getting swept through the old wooden Topanga lifeguard tower during a major swell when I was 11, broke my ankle, nose again and two fingers.
(I think I should have quit surfing a long time ago)
He also mentioned an old timer he used to surf with who was one of the Pioneers at the Ranch.
Dad said the guy carried punching bag balloons and when he lost his board, he would blow a balloon up and use it to float in.
Scared of drowning.
Ok.
Drowning isn't my worry, its the beating that gets you to that point that I don't care for.
I did board repair yesterday, the 10' had some delam on the rear deck so I fixed that up. I also found pressure dings...in front of the comp line.
Lol.
We did a friends dings at the same time and he asked why I ride such a beat up board when I should be riding a badass resin tinted, wood tailblocked deluxe cruiser, entirely hand shaped and glassed by me.
Um, because I don't have to? When the 10' finally goes, maybe then but for now, I have what I need.
I find no pride in possessions.
Skills, yes.
Ain't one of those surfers with ten boards in the garage, still just 3 in rotation plus a boogie.
Not dissing those with 'board whore syndrome', thats another way of doing it.
Just not for me.
In other news, I gots none, go on about your weekend kids, have fun, be kind.
See ya.
Making the most of it...
Had a blast yesterday surfing a local beach break, yeah it was smaller than every where else but shape is way more important than size-to me anyway.
What good is 6' with no where to go?
Besides, I am scared of big waves.
No, really.
Once it gets 8' plus without a channel, I am done.
Gun shy.
Before you start poking fun, get yourself nearly drowned a few times and get back to me.
Mother Ocean has had me in her grasp more than a few times, caught inside or swept out to sea. And after the third time, I realized that I would rather live to surf another day than risk it all for a bit of glory.
I went over the falls once at Uppers, big day, just huge. I was maybe 16 and misjudged the take off by a few seconds. I was not prepared for the beating I took, my board hit me, I bounced off the bottom, came up again only to get drug another 50 yards under water.
Then the next wave clipped me and one more after that.
I got out and counted the stars circling my head and swore to always surf smarter than I did that day.
A few years later I was at Rincon during an epic and well overhead swell.
It was 10' plus and there were 12 to 15 wave sets rolling through.
I burned maybe six waves before getting a huge screamer into the Cove. I went out over the back and saw another 10 waves coming. The first two I made it over, the next ten pushed me southward a 1/4 mile, up against the highway.
Seeing I was not going to get back outside, I pulled the leash and started swimming (along with two other surfers) towards the oil pier. We all washed through the pier and swam in through some horrendous shorebreak.
It was a long walk back to the upper lot...and I was shaking the whole way.
But being that close to losing it all instilled a fear in me of big waves.
Big being anything over 8' without a channel to hide in.
I have surfed Sunset at 15' Hawaiian (I thought it was 50') and had fun.
I have surfed a local beachbreak at 6' and was scared shitless.
Its all relative I guess.
Just call me a small wave specialist...lol.
Anyway, last weekend of summer coming up...and Stella is going to school full time this year...meaning I have between 8am and 3pm, 5 days a week free.
Made it.
And its our season for good surf.
Fortunate one, yes?
Well, got to get the wifes' lunch made and get the various critters fed.
See ya.
What good is 6' with no where to go?
Besides, I am scared of big waves.
No, really.
Once it gets 8' plus without a channel, I am done.
Gun shy.
Before you start poking fun, get yourself nearly drowned a few times and get back to me.
Mother Ocean has had me in her grasp more than a few times, caught inside or swept out to sea. And after the third time, I realized that I would rather live to surf another day than risk it all for a bit of glory.
I went over the falls once at Uppers, big day, just huge. I was maybe 16 and misjudged the take off by a few seconds. I was not prepared for the beating I took, my board hit me, I bounced off the bottom, came up again only to get drug another 50 yards under water.
Then the next wave clipped me and one more after that.
I got out and counted the stars circling my head and swore to always surf smarter than I did that day.
A few years later I was at Rincon during an epic and well overhead swell.
It was 10' plus and there were 12 to 15 wave sets rolling through.
I burned maybe six waves before getting a huge screamer into the Cove. I went out over the back and saw another 10 waves coming. The first two I made it over, the next ten pushed me southward a 1/4 mile, up against the highway.
Seeing I was not going to get back outside, I pulled the leash and started swimming (along with two other surfers) towards the oil pier. We all washed through the pier and swam in through some horrendous shorebreak.
It was a long walk back to the upper lot...and I was shaking the whole way.
But being that close to losing it all instilled a fear in me of big waves.
Big being anything over 8' without a channel to hide in.
I have surfed Sunset at 15' Hawaiian (I thought it was 50') and had fun.
I have surfed a local beachbreak at 6' and was scared shitless.
Its all relative I guess.
Just call me a small wave specialist...lol.
Anyway, last weekend of summer coming up...and Stella is going to school full time this year...meaning I have between 8am and 3pm, 5 days a week free.
Made it.
And its our season for good surf.
Fortunate one, yes?
Well, got to get the wifes' lunch made and get the various critters fed.
See ya.
Nice long weekend...
Had two great sessions at the spot That Will Not Be Named although I did bust a fin up again....8' drop into a heavy kelp bed equals one loose fin.
I stayed out anyway, the board was wiggly but the damage was already done.
Had it mostly uncrowded though a few stragglers showed up only to hear "I am glad you weren't here an hour ago..."
Thats me, all ten over...can ya tell? Me neither, looks like seaweed to me....
Stella has her farm going...
One parakeet
One Mini Rex
Two Panda Hamsters
8 chickens
4 cats
One fat dog
And we are looking for a goat...
Crystal says no more critters but since when do we listen to her?
Also scored a Sundance Spa for free off of CL...90.00 in wiring and we were soaking by 5 pm Sunday...it sold for 4800.00 new in 2003.
Octoberfish, a benefit for the foodbank has been canceled this year...sucks because I was going to build a board for the raffle.
I was recently asked to help start up a band...a gypsy kind of Cabaret thing...but I opted out after one get together, I don't like being stuck on one instrument and would rather play my flutes or mandolin these days.
But I might look into getting a band together for a winter type project.
Maybe not.
Well, some surf today for me later with any luck.
Um...thats it I guess.
Be kind.
See ya.
I stayed out anyway, the board was wiggly but the damage was already done.
Had it mostly uncrowded though a few stragglers showed up only to hear "I am glad you weren't here an hour ago..."
Thats me, all ten over...can ya tell? Me neither, looks like seaweed to me....Stella has her farm going...
One parakeet
One Mini Rex
Two Panda Hamsters
8 chickens
4 cats
One fat dog
And we are looking for a goat...
Crystal says no more critters but since when do we listen to her?
Also scored a Sundance Spa for free off of CL...90.00 in wiring and we were soaking by 5 pm Sunday...it sold for 4800.00 new in 2003.
Octoberfish, a benefit for the foodbank has been canceled this year...sucks because I was going to build a board for the raffle.
I was recently asked to help start up a band...a gypsy kind of Cabaret thing...but I opted out after one get together, I don't like being stuck on one instrument and would rather play my flutes or mandolin these days.
But I might look into getting a band together for a winter type project.
Maybe not.
Well, some surf today for me later with any luck.
Um...thats it I guess.
Be kind.
See ya.
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