Swimming

Had a good swim yesterday after thinking the shorebreak was a good place to surf...outside was 8' plus but the inside bar was pretty good I thought.
I hit it and was having fun till I ducked into a sand pit and was blasted off my board.
I came up and my board was no where to be seen...hmmm, not where it should be...is it over there in the end of the rip? Nope.
Next to the rocks? Nope.
Heading back out to sea? Nope.
So I started swimming in but I was going more southward than towards the beach, no worries...big finger of rocks that way and I could climb up and out...but where is my damn board?
I finally got to the rocks, climbed up and took another look for an orange 6' board.
Nope. Still don't see it.
I got off the rocks and started walking North, just in case the rip doubled back on itself, outside was a churning mess so it made as much sense as anything.
There it is...75 yards out and heading for Japan.
Fuck.
I ran out along the rocks, jumped off and started to swim for it...
20 minutes later...I am paddling in, almost to the shorebreak again...I picked off a peak, popped up and was tossed over the falls, too tired from the swim to get up quick enough for the drop...
There goes the board again.
I caught it quickly this time and bellied in.
Let this be a lesson, low rockered boards are hard to find in the foamy rips...
To the tourist who thought this was an every day thing, no, it wasn't, given the conditions, I was pretty close to letting the board go on its way...

Not having enough abuse, I did the SUP thing for three hours waiting for the tide to come up but the mysto I was waiting for never got it together enough to surf.

Met some dipshit tourist surfer from Eugene, he and his girl cruising their white VW Westy, boards on top, the full on long haired organic wanker scene...they parked next my VW tin top, maybe they thought I was some organic, co-op shopping hippie dippy surfer type?
After he named four local spots that he knew nothing about-I had heard enough..."Go home or go somewhere else..."
"But..."
"See ya..."

While I can appreciate tourist types-I am one after all, traveling as much as I do, there is no way you will catch me in NorCal or SoOr, standing on the beach next to a local and naming all of the local spots in the area.
Etiquette is good.
Keeping your mouth shut when traveling is even better.
Especially when you are sporting a day-glo green board on your racks...lol.
Patchouli reeking douches...

I have a full couple of days coming now so no surf for me, conditions are going southwind and ugly anyway.
Bike trip is put off because Crystal is dancing in Eugene (she won't name spots, I promise) Saturday and that leaves me with Stella for the weekend, no worries, her and I will head south anyway for a mini camp trip (where I won't name spots), perhaps the last for the Summer...
Bummer.
But make it last, eh?

I have a two week celebration coming Saturday too...
A middle finger to the tobacco companies...now, if I can get my wife to quit...
Two weeks smoke free.
I have to say I feel so much better, more energy, less stress, I don't stink as much (I rarely shower) so all in all, while it was hard (harder to kick than heroin), I am loving it. In the end, it was as much about my health as it was about money and Stella, she was a driving force in my efforts. She gave me more then enough inspiration to quit, she even got to use those words she doesn't get to use..."Put that fucking cigarette down!"

Well, thats the news, time to chase some chickens...
See ya and have a great weekend.

Maybe...

Small...

And it was hardly worth it but what are you going to do?
I paddled out for all of an hour, good to get wet I guess but damn, I need some good surf.
I sold off my too small single hull and now have the dough to finish off my new longboard, pics later with any luck...

I need a wheelbarrow...M?
lols..

Planning another trip south by bike this coming weekend, leave Saturday and head to Brookings or further...we will see.
I might go sans board and try for a few 100 mile days, like those crazy Italians that bike our Coast...I met a few, nuts is what they are.

Anyway, aside from chasing chickens, thats the news from Rancho de Costa Lotta...
See ya.

Design

Just got back from the check, its crap...
Up since dark thirty going over quad designs...
For some reason, the hype got to a guy who wants me to shape a board for him.
"Head high and up, super hollow waves, paddle really well and go fast with great feedback. A quad finned super deluxe please..."
Quad...will not paddle well with all of that drag from those fins.
Head high and up, super hollow...you do not need speed for that wave, you need control.
Feedback?
I think he means control.
Ok, I can build a quad fin, you want it to flat paddle well so the rocker is going to be flatter...but then you will nose dive much more often.
Control and feedback...simpler is better, four fins ain't simple.
So what this guy wants is a bucket full of compromises.
No board is going to do it all at in our conditions.
Not my beloved planing hulls, not some stocker from CI.
Another case of the next big thing.
Oh well, there is no explaining board design to those who are caught up in the hype.

But it does mean that I am shaping once again.
Yay!
That means the blog has a purpose again, aside from my incessant habit of talking out loud.

Well, breaking out the templates for the quad-did I mention its going be up near 7'0"
WTF?

There is no pride in breaking boards...it usually means that you put yourself in a position to get hammered.
There are exceptions of course.
I have broken a few in my day.
Inside rock at Rincon.
My head at Uppers.
Free fall down 8' of face locally...(see bold above).
Lols.

Well, need some water time so I am going to load up the SUP for the first time in months and get some workout in...
See ya and have a good weekend.

Familiar bed...

...not so great actually...
Miss the road but Summer is not over, no no, Indian Summer is on its way, less wind, promise of swell...and still some gas money left.
Unless I bike it again.
But the trouble with bike touring with board/gear is the distance between 'spots'. Yes, there are mysto spots, today-only specials out there but the SoOr/NorCal Coast is not like any where else.
There can be 30 miles between beaches, let alone spots.
But its a good way to go if you have the time.
I figure ten days from my house to Santa Cruz, if you like climbs anyway.
And I love climbs. The pacing, the resolution to top the hill.
Cape Sebastian did kick my ass though, pushed the middle third...lol.

My previous trip by bike, the trailer weighed out at 45 lbs., this trip it topped 30 lbs. and I could probably lose another 5 if I cut out some of the tub.
I think using the board as a chassis is the better way to go.
A mule thing maybe.
I took the 6'0", a 3/2 and booties, no towel, sleeping bag as board bag, 1 quart of water, stove, propane, 1 quart pot, coffee, 3 pairs of socks, one warm windbreaker, 2 shirts (one to wear), cycle shorts and nylon quick dry shorts to go over them.
Tools and two new tubes.
And thats it.
Oh, gumdrops.
No food because why carry what you can buy on the way? No dishes or cups because an empty can of spaghettio's makes a great coffee cup in the morning.
I use the 'no cleaning' method for cooking.
Place tortilla in bottom of pan, place chili or beans or whatever on tortilla, heat, fold and eat. If you are careful, you will leave nothing in the pan.
And have no clean up.
For coffee, put water and coffee in the pot, stir, go to sleep, wake up and heat. Most of the grounds will have sunk, you get a great yield and if you are lucky, some fiber...
Simple is always best.
I guess I aspire to be a dirtbag tourist type someday.
Like beating the system with my crafty cheapness.

Anyway, just thinking outloud.
Hoping to surf today, going to kill harvest a rooster...
And catch up on the house.
See ya.


Oh, aftermath of hitting a 4" branch on the roadway...up and over the bars...but not so bad the next day.$100,000 worth of boats for a $12.00 fish...a little herb to quiet my laughter...View from the tallest bridge on the Coast of Oregon. Yes, there is a person in the water...Have a good day, see ya later this week...

Whew...

No surf 'round here lately, meager at best so I loaded up and hit the trail, with only a hieroglyphic on a thread worn t-shirt to guide me.
I knew in my heart that if I looked for it...I would have my paradise...

First, I got the cats out of my trailer...Then I loaded it up...
Then I went South because that just made more sense, how could this perfect spot be North of me? I saw some carnage, the mangled debris left by others foolish enough to try...
Nope, close but it was flat...Pretty Sunset though....I was pooped so I slept here by the creek...no , not that creek...The next morning, up at the crack...This looked promising...but no...
Same with this spot...And this one...And this one...And this one, even stoned, not even close...
So I asked this little busy bee...after getting him buzzed of course...
"Dude, its way far from here, always epic and Bro-Love!, check out my shirt!"
And then he buzzed away...



This was the last spot I looked at...I was getting weary, seems I wasn't going to find the myth after all....Oh well, I put the shirt/map up on the Welcome to Cali sign with a note...
"If you find this epic spot, call me!"
But even that won't help because I left my phone...here...right after calling the wife to let her know I had failed...End of the trail, no way could I venture in to Lotus Land...

And thats what I did since Sunday at 2 pm.
I am now safely at home due to some Karma from Nunzio.
Nunzio is one of our beloved Coos Bay type locals, or was...
I saw him going North Sunday afternoon and he flipped around. He asked where I was heading to. I showed him the shirt. He is one of the teachers axed due to budget cuts but he found a job in Brookings and was going back and forth moving...hmmm, I said, when you going down again?
He was down there today, I helped him unload his trailer and he loaded me up and gave me a ride home...

Miles...130
Waves...zip.
Money...3.17
Flats...zip
Wrecks...1

And what have you been doing?

Summer....

Just another good day...as good as a day gets with zero surf involved anyway...
Wind was 30 knots by 10 am yesterday so...
We went and did the Seafood Fest...which was good because Crystal and her dance troupe, Fatinah Maysaa were scheduled to perform at 3.



Then we went up the river for Shannon and Seth's 1 year anniversary...
We were there the night before too but the pics didn't work...or I didn't work or something...I am pretty sure Wolfgang 'shroomed me with his Tequila flask with extra added ingredients...


Stella loves costumes and face painting...

And new friends to play 'horsey' with...( I was sooo the fastest horse against these 7 year olds! )


A little time in the middle of the MIllacoma...


And then, after eating 2 lbs of BBQ tuna at the Seafood Fest...Seth forced me I tell ya! To eat more...

Yep, no surf, no shaping...but....Summer anyway.

And for those who need help posting...get a muse!
(he is why I am so cocky...get it? Huh?)


Of course, I would have rather been doing this....

I leave for a bike trip later today, so see ya in a week I think.


Take care kiddies...

Oh, a quick shout out to Dale Inskeep and his band, you guys are really good...for Country!

Karma fins, saws, chickens and pedals....

Geez, will the Karma circle ever end?
We got 8 more hens for free this week, all about 5 months old, all laying already (7 eggs yesterday), my wife better watch it-she is deathly allergic to egg protein...lol...
I loaned a set of clipless pedals to a guy in real need, asked on the blog if any one had a set to trade for a blank...instead I get gifted a better set than I loaned him! They came in the mail this morning and are already mounted up...sweet, brand new and super deluxe!...thanks M, so sweet of you to do that. I will give him the choice of keeping mine or using this set you sent....


And Stella's shirt says it all...(joking kids)
Another surf buddy is moving south and called to see if I wanted his old tools...
Craftsman radial arm saw for free, etc...oh yeah! I can use them!



Now...if I could just get some Karma surf....
Take it easy Kids, have a great Saturday!

Perfect

My ideal.
2' and Sunny, alone.
Waves breaking over a shallow sandbar, peeling peaks, playful.
Left, right, even straight because I am that good.
Lol.
No really, it was super fun to get a few on the log, really nice out today with a pleasant offshore blowing. Had two hours to myself, love it.
See ya.

Barter?

I need a set of clipless, SPD's or similar...
Trade ya 9'2" blank for a set in decent condition....
email or call
541 260 3320

Fog...

Oh the drama of living at the Coast...
Looked good in the afternoon yesterday but I was a bit late on the take.
Had a few shorepounders in the middle while some longboarders had their way North of me.
Then the fog rolled in, couldn't see the beach even from the shorebreak I was riding...
I got to ride the Orangecicle, fixed the busted out fin yesterday, not much is more fun that shorepound cover ups on a little board.
There was a ruffle on sways yesterday about board thicknesses, some one posted that 2.75 is too thick for a retro fish and was promptly shouted down.
I haven't shaped a board that was too thick yet but a log I made for one guy was at 3.5, of course he weighs out at 260 so its all relative.
I rode the board and its was fine, not corky but I was careful to thin the rails out, if you go that thick, it becomes harder to sink the rail and that creates some tracking issues.
In my humble opinion...

I am going to have a 6'8" Hull for sale in a week, I missed the numbers for myself in volume, the board is more suited for a surfer at 140 lbs. than 170 lbs...oops.
Its the Palandrani template from the mint green hull I did for a local, the board worked so smoothly for him that I had to have one.
And no Loren, it won't work for you....
Look for pics this weekend after I ride it again to be sure.



Some ranting out there about what a piss poor Summer its been. Foggy, windy, small...wait, thats not piss poor, its typical Oregon...in the Summer.
But the Salad days are coming...last year was the best Fall I have had here, with clean conditions and, while small, good consistent swell. Our beachies can't handle the bigger stuff so there you are.

My wife is sponsoring me for the Noll this year.
Yep, going to do a contest.
Mostly to touch bases with other shapers in SoOr and Norcal but also to see what all the fuss is about.
Wish me luck...lol.

I left out Gato yesterday in the house pics, he was pretty pissed so...here he is...
Making applesauce today with Stella, I have a new foodmill and I borrowed a canner ( I was doing tuna this weekend anyway), Stella loves applesauce and with over 300 lbs. hanging on the tree, better do something with them.

Anyway, thats the news from Rancho de Retro, have a surfy type day.
See ya....

House...

More or less, some fruit, an apple tree from hell, Crystals' Playhouse which should have been my glassing room...but she talked me out of it as only a woman can...I will build my shed in the next week or two...
a few cats, one fat dog...
My cold frame in the front yard for our greens through the winter, backyard view towards the house, blah blah blah...and my very crowded garage...
Huge lot but it was empty for three months and the weeds and dryness took over.
I'm now about 10 minutes from the beach, out of the fog and mist but close enough to just wander over and check it.
I like it, its a ten year house, get the garden in tight, a few updates to the house itself and we are good to go.
Dead end gravel road with two other homes on it...nice...its rural but 5 minutes from town...by bike!


And one very busted fin....
Which I fixed today....
See ya.

Not much, you?

Been a slow week here at Campo De Cost Alotta...
Had a great weekend, no surf mind you but surf isn't everything...
I did have a look once...but nope, nothing doing in the dribblers.

Some Jew-fro wearing skinny white fuck did try to run up on me while checking the surf...


I heard a funny story...
A loooongtime local whom I respect dearly, once chased Whitless with a crescent wrench. I don't know why but I can imagine...
Anyway, what was interesting is this loooongtime local is the guy who is always getting after me for being late to the break..."Ya missed it, Kiddo..."
He leaves tide charts on my van....
Shapes his own blanks and boards, has a self-sufficient lifestyle, very green, has surfed here since the 1960's.
He has our spots wired up like only a surfer with 40 years here can.
Quite the Waterman and someone I look up too-I see myself as he when I am much older and grayer.
And, he knows an asshole kook when he sees one.
He and I have shared a few waves at the Mysto and other spots that most don't bother with, we once had a perfect right to ourselves for four hours, trading waves and his stories of old Coos and other nearby breaks.
He reminds me of my Father a bit but without the drama and cynicism.

Well, I am hoping to get two longboards shaped this week and glassed over the weekend, one Bing Lightweight for me and some kind of one off longboard for Spike
(you Kiwanda types might know Spike, he was up at your contest, his son is Ollie of Nelscott Reef fame, his other son is who I bought my current house from),
A local guy shaped a chined railed, ten finned, swallow tailed something or other and Spike wants one just like it.
Chine rails.
I had them on a custom Aipa Stinger way back when...work great on some designs.

Anyway, thats it from here, see ya...

Link list

I just noticed it was missing...sorry...I will look for it or make a new one up....
Went searching last eve for surf, flat up here, odd because we never go flat...
Its raining anyway, who surfs in the rain?
Oh...we do.

Hung on the beach for a bit with a bro, nothing else to do, I love talking surfboards...
Out of here this evening for the Reggae Fest in the Valley, kid friendly, lots of great music, see ya there.
Have a great weekend!

Remember when surfing was fun?

Ask and you shall receive...

Surfed 'Impossibles' last evening because I like the place.
Its the best kind of mysto spot, all hairball and mostly TOAD.
It was mediocre at best but good for 20 yards of cover up and
hair washing.
Had to paddle in when I hit the reef with my inner fin on the Orangecicle.
I had lost the board on the second wave but swam fast enough to grab it before it
found the cliff face.
Not so lucky the second time.
The fin pulled hard and split in the middle, pulling the glass off between the fins a bit.
Easy fix but there is some sand in it I won't be able to get out.
Not bad enough to replace the board yet, maybe next time.




In other news and there is plenty...
I got my chickens yesterday! WooHoo!
And they are still alive this morning...which is good.
And I planted my seedlings for my cold frame, nothing like fresh greens through the winter.
I gave away a riding mower because I like the work out my push mower gives me.
Bet ya didn't know I like mowing lawns...
And vacuuming...
And straight lines.
Yeah.
Well, have to run, fin fixing, some planting and mulching.
Going to get pics of the house up too.
See ya and get some.


Of anything.

After fuming last night....

And really getting worked up...
Hey, I aint from here, so don't judge me...
I called my Father.
My Father lives in Northern Baja, he is an old school prick, way worse than I could ever be.
We shared some stories about the old days at Topanga and Bay St., what localism was like back in the late 1960's, what it was like in the 1970's.
I left Cali for good in 1987 but by then I had a Dume key...

He and I use to zip tie leashes of other surfers together.
If someone dropped in on us, we broke off their fins.
If some one got mouthy in the water, I often saw my Father pull his fin out of the box and threaten to slash a guys neck with it...to this day, I don't use a fin bolt...lol.

Right Loren?

Anyway, I never saw the reason for all of that violence, it was just surf after all...let your skills and your commitment do the talking...



But there were some shitpigs who deserved the treatment.
I remember a certain val who had his car stolen and driven in to the creek.
Donny Wilson had his van set on fire up at third point.
After an NSSA contest in O'side one year, four of North County's finest surfers chased us halfway to Trestles because we had the nerve to come down and beat their school team at their home break.
I saw my own brother get his ass handed to him after snaking Sarlo.
Just recently I was told "You ain't sharing!" (by the same guy who Whitley was mouthing off to) and took it to heart-I was being greedy that day....






Rant off.

In other news, I got a Hitachi planer with the Clark mods...
Now I need to go break one of my boards so I can use it!
See ya kids...