Pulled the trigger

On a quick trip south. A bit of southerly showing and very little wind made for some clean little peaks. High tide shut it down but it was something to do.
I just had to get wet.
I am free and easy for the evening so in a bit, its time to glass the 6'0".
I still have no idea as to color but Lorens' fin gave me an idea.
Whats to lose?
See ya with pics later...

Whee stick 2

Hmmm, nice outline...where did I steal it from?

I have the blank finished up and masked for its top lam, going double 4 oz with a tail patch and I am going to use 6 colors I think...yeah.
The bottom will be single 6 oz and single 4 oz, its stringerless so...
I saw a color combo on sways that I liked so I am going to try to duplicate it.
I thought of going with long tiger stripes but too messy looking for my eyes.
I left it a stand up rider but took the thickness down to 2 11/16ths.
I looked at Sources a bit and noticed he does go to 6'6" with them.
This one is 6'0" right now, volume should float a surfer to 190 lbs. without too much sacrifice in float and paddling.Up there is the bottom at mid point. The hull is still flowing but the thinned rails have pretty much taken over. Thinning the eggy rails helps to put the board on rail.
I will glass her this morning and maybe get her in the water by Saturday.
I haven't surfed since I got back, hell, I haven't even looked.
Its hard to come off a great trip like that one and then go stare at 3' windslop.
But I have to say, all of those groveling sessions in junk, paddling out when no one else would even bother pays off. I had at least 6 hours in the water every day on the trip and never felt it except the next morning-while suiting up.
Something to be said for keeping those skills sharp and those shoulders in the mix.

Not much else going on. Aside from the Source Scrambler copy, I am building a custom for Randy, a 7'10 Speed Machine, similar to the Turtle but without the Turtles.
Its the one and only tri-fin I will ever build.
Widowmakers don't count.
I mention that fin set up as it would apply to the stubbie I am building.
Hmmm...oh boy, here comes the drama!
I haven't made the fins yet so....
Thats the life of a hack shaper.
I am good enough to repro anything I see, not good enough to define what would work best with any (ok, some) confidence.
Like my first Simmons inspired, the back and forth is good and will yield good results.
Hmmm...a stubbie.
Must.
Not.
Change.
Horses.
In.
Midstream.
Or I will get wet.
Ha!
See ya.

This board will be up for sale in a week or so, if its something you might want, email me at retroshaper@gmail.com, if you are quick enough, you will get the color (s) of your choice as well as fin set up! Board is 250.00 with fins and leash plug.
May or may not come with dings.

ps...for a group of osp "surfers" that profess to hate me, you guys sure come here a lot. I have 36 people reading this shit, coming out of Portland, some with over 300 visits.
Of course, if I lived 80 miles from the water, sitting in a little box at Nike all day, I would want a distraction too.
Sonno Vostro Sciavo.

Whee stick

Got after a bit of foam. Wee thing is close to glassing.
It looks much like the Source board in all but length.
Planing Hull, concave out the back, 2 " nose rocker, 1" tail. Deck is domed spilling
onto hard egg rails to 24" and then rolled down.
Nose is 20", tail 18".
Trash can lid tail.
I still have the thickness at 3" in the middle.
I am not sure I want to take that volume out.
If I leave it in, its def a stand up rider.
I take it out and I think its a kneeboard.
Man, the drama, who knew?
(laugh with me, k?)


Thats a rail thing.

Thats a concave thing.
Them are graduated steps marked onto the foam to form in the front hull.
Its like math but dusty,

Thats the 90% completed blank from afar.
That there is a picture of the foil.
Its pretty cool so far.
Except that bike trailer has seen better days.
Stella has ridden in it since she was 6 months.
Now, she barely fits.
See ya.

Hulls and the Simmons adventure

While surfing the Hook, I watched a little grom flying down the line so fast he looked scared. He was riding a 5'2" Source mini hull/Simmons, a bit short for his power as he was getting bounced around a bit on his line. The board and rider were very fast in the lined up walls. I talked to Nick Saturday (who had the board with him) and we went over his design aspects and the whys and hows.
I took a template off the board and got the rocker numbers and fin placement. Nick mentioned he moves the fins up a bit as the length increases but he doesn't build them longer than 5'8" I think. (on edit-he goes up to 6'6" with these 'Scrambler Models).
The fins were made just for that board design, not a keel or a D fin but more like a traditional thruster fin but with a longer base. Single foiled and toed to 9 degree's (thats a guess). I started on one yesterday as a kneeboard shape for me, 5'6" by 23" by 2 1/2", 20" nose, 19" tail, flat hull to concave through the tail. If I don't like it, it will work as a stand up rider for a chipper who wants to go fast.
There is no explaining how fast these little boards are. I did a go behind on a logger at 38th st. and played in the pocket behind him till I saw he was going to get left behind. I dropped back in hard with all of my weight forward and swooped around him in a long sweeping bottom turn, aiming for the top of the section that was closing out in front of us. I threw the board up, set the down rail and was back in the pocket in front of a ten yard section while the logger was trying to figure out what happened.
Its the speed off the pump and the subsequent glide that opens up different lines and 'feel'. There is a lot of 'feel' in these shapes.
Like skating a pool.
After I finish my kneeboard, I am dropping my length down to 6'2" and my width to 22", staying at 3" thick for float and paddle. Nick mentioned that I didn't need so much 'flip' in the last 4 inches of the nose hull but I think it helps in paddling in to waves. I can get my weight far forward without digging the nose in. It might help in duck diving, I was able to get good penetration on my sixten when I went under a few 5' walls at 20 seconds, some push back but I was able to paddle through fairly easily for a board thats got a lot of volume.
I put a link up to Nicks' "Source" label, I highly recommend them, after seeing how fast that kid was going, I can only hope to shape a board that goes that fast down the line.
Here is the board I saw at the Hook...
Oh, he uses a disc tail for a bit more drive and lift, something I am going to do with my kneeboard to see how it goes.

See ya.

Not buried treasure...

The note says "Dig here"....




Its pointing to the center of this...
Where I dug and found this...
Empty.
What kind of kook goes through all of that trouble and then leaves a glass bottle in the sand?
Oh wait! Whats in the bottle?
A dollar.
One.
But I got another nickel for the bottle.


This is the only bridge I know of on the West Coast that I can not hold my breath on for the entire length.
And now you know.

No surf today, windy, small and, uh, Oregon.
See ya.

A bit more or less...


The sixten still smiling from a smokin', no leash, balls to the wall speed session at the Hook. Blistering 6' faces were reeling down the kelp line at low tide on this afternoon session and every wave ended in a tube riding beat down.


The contest scene, a very low key fund raiser really. Lots of cool old boards and some of the nicest 'locals' you will find anywhere. If you can surf anyway.
Free donuts, coffee, boards to drool over. Killer raffle that included a GP Wave Farmer, an Ashley Lloyd with a sweet baby blue tint...I surfed with Ashley at First peak Friday night, all I can say is "graceful"...In the middle of the picture, the guy in the brown shirt and glasses...he and I were the last men standing during a 20 wave set on Saturday evening. We were way outside and laughing, watching 6' green walls marching down the point towards us-"you want to go?" "No Bro! you go!" "SEE YA!"
Went I paddled back out you can bet I said thanks.
In the background you can see the Hook doing something.


"Hurry up, lets go!" says the sixten as I grab some herb and chill for a bit in the van.
It was 74 on the beach and rather toasty.


Light Saturday crowd during the high tide softness,

Some weird ass picture of me.

Lunch. Can of Stagg, cold. Doritos naturally.
Oh, Union Made Miller Beer because this man does not do frau frau.


I stopped by Homeboys' place in Davenport to drop off a gift from the Earth...

¿Formó usted una tabla hawaiana para una mujer de Portland?
¡"Sí, ella tuvo algunas tetas agradables"!
Refresque.
"Y un asno agradable también"!
Sí, yo la encontré una vez.
¿"Pero su novio, él fue un loco, no"?
Sí.
I left with a smile at the joke.

Anyway, see ya.

Well crap...




I had a bunch of stuff I wanted to throw out there but ya know what?
I am kind of done with it...
My trip was great, from Wednesday at 4:36 PM till 8:00 AM Sunday, I was treated to a great south swell.
I surfed the Lane, the Hook, 38th ave, First Peak and Privates.
I rode 11 boards in all not counting my own.
I attended the LogJam and shagged lost boards.
I proved up my Simmons inspired boards at the Hook and while doing battle with the longboarders at 38th.
I broke one leash, used one bar of wax, spent 330.00 on gas, food, pot and camping.
I was invited to the 36th ave Block Party.
I spent an hour with Nick Palandrani (he liked my Simmons).
I confirmed my status as an Honorary Dirt Farmer.
I got some swag.Surf was epic, as good as the April swell of '07, maybe a bit bigger.
My Simmons inspired boards are a delight to ride in big point surf, I can't remember the last time I had that much fun surfing. I will be going shorter with my own boards though.

There is a bunch more but I just don't want to throw it out there.
While I love the visitors that 'get' this blog, there are too many visitors that don't.
Kind of like surfing.

See ya.

6 for 6


Had a great trip, way more than I can share in one post.
Have much to do today (you should see the honey-do list) but will get some pics up and some more 'I hate this guy' info on the conditions, people and spots.
And of course, the sixtens' adventures in speed runs.

See ya.

Racked, packed and....

Gone surfing.
See ya in a week.

Not a bad weekend...

Went one for two on the travels to the spot south of Kiwanda...
Yesterday was much smaller and windy but I had my 6 waves in 15 minutes and called it.
I also got the warm and fuzzies...
Mr. Cranberry, who has a few boards in his quiver, is now a certified Simmons convert. He rode the board Saturday and got a few good waves while getting used to it. Yesterday, he was out for four hours and got some great waves on his 7'0".
His surfing seems to have been ignited by having a board that is small and compact yet floats and paddles like something much longer and unwieldy. He is 225 and riding a 7'0" by 24 by 3 1/4 Casper, the board is identical to my sixten, just blown up for his weight.
He was getting into the hard offshore 3' waves early and hauling ass down the line, wave after wave.
I wasn't sure it was him when I saw the first wave.
I guess a happy feeling comes from shaping a board for some one and then watching them progress so rapidly...and yes, I know its the board.
The Casper out paddles his much longer epoxy board and is looser to boot.
Super.

I am itching to shape out something but aside from my own Bing Lightweight copy, I don't have much else going on.
Summer is coming and I thought of shaping out a few longboards for sale but I would rather go custom for someone than shape out what I like and then sell it.
Its just easier.
But I did decide to keep my shit a bit closer to the ocean.
I will shape for those who are stuck inland but...
I sold the custom Turtle to a local guy who saw it when it was being shaped. I mentioned to him I could copy it for him so we were going to do that.
But after having so many second thoughts about the Turtle getting parked on a wall in Bend...fuck that.
Sorry Missy, go get a board somewhere else.
Mine are for surfers.

In other news...
I can no longer ride my log with any sort of sanity.
After riding my ever shorter Simmons projects, I seem to have lost interest in logging much. I rode my SUP for a few hours yesterday morning but its pretty loose for a 9'4".
My 10'0", while being one of my favorite logs ever, has become really stiff to my feet.
When I rode it Friday, it didn't like me neither.
My wife has noticed my boards getting shorter, she has known me to ride only longboards till recently.
You may not find me on a 6'0" any time soon but my next Simmons will be back down to 6'4".
So far, I have built from 5'8" to 7'0" in the design, I think 7 now.
The only one I am missing is a 6'8" in the bunch.
But since the design is rather straight forward, adding length is a simple matter.
So is going shorter. I have yet to make a long one because a longboard that won't noseride is kind of silly. And back when Bob was doing his thing, noseriding was not part of the surfing equation. Turning was barely part of the equation.

Anyway, much to do today, Stella stuff because I bail out for the week tomorrow, regardless.

Take care kids, see ya.
Oh, Surf Sister, good luck with becoming a Robot! I hope it goes well for you!

Oh #2, any readers in Santa Cruz?
Hmmm?

0 for 7

What a great day, went a bit south for some wind protection and while it wasn't a Princess Sparkle Pony under the Christmas tree day, it was fun. I ducked into 7 and made it out of 0.
The stringerless sixten Simmons was tested, thoroughly and came up in one piece.
I was slammed, starfished and otherwise dumped in the hollow shorepound.
It pumps so well down the line I was able to turn closeouts into some decent waves.
Me go fast, me like.

Mr. Cranberry did the driving and treated me to two "World Famous Hot Dogs" on the way home.
He scored some waves too and I saw him 'find' the gas pedal on his 7'0" Casper. He got the wave and then it threw out in front of him, he stayed with it but it looked he was getting left behind. He leaned forward a bit and ZOOM! Right back in he went, he was smiling pretty hard and he bought me two hot dogs so I know he is stoked.
Will shape for hot dogs.

I haven't had much luck at this spot lately but it sure produced for me today.
Heading back tomorrow...and yes its just south of Kiwanda.
See ya.

Fruits, nuts and flakes...

Ok.
Now, if I was one of them thar rightwinging teabaggers, I might just go all
postal and start shooting shit up.
Or lick some balls or something.

First, I deal with a girl/woman who thinks that uniformity is cool, that all turtles should look alike, that once they are handpainted onto foam and then painted again onto the first lam glass for depth, that I should be able to change them.
Even though she approved of them thar tortugas.
Then, whilst we plan to meet in Florence, she can't.
For a bit of time.
Ok.
Now, I will build you a board without a deposit if it isn't some far out space ship looking thing.
But if you want a certain color a certain way and some turtles... I am going to ask for 100.00 towards the board. Seems she missed that part.
So there it sits, 8'4" of the perfect point break/all around/cool retro single fin, custom built.
And there it is going to sit.

This is why I shape what I ride, that way, at least its in my quiver for a bit.
Now, I shaped her out a Michael Peterson templated single fin, its a retro with updated rails and a thumb-ier tail. Griffin tuck rails. Single to spiral V.
17" by 22.5 by 16" by 3".
Dome deck last third.
Now, she doesn't know she got all of that, nope. She only knows she got some purple and some turtles.
If she gets it.
I already had a problem making a board that will sit so much.
In Bend.

And...
As we all know, I have trying to get out of here on a southern type trip for ten days now. First delay was me, I wanted to build boards instead in the peace and quiet of an empty house as the wife was gone.
Then, the weather where I was headed went to shit.
But Mr. Cranberry mentions the other night that he is free for a week to ten days.
So we plan it.
He canceled Wednesday but put it on for Saturday.
Cool.
I understand.
Needs time with his girl.
His girlfriend is hot.
Like mad 'hot'.
So I am in the basement, sanding away, setting up two new templates, life is good, I leave tomorrow, I am packed, ain't even looking at the surf today, tomorrow is on to Shelter and then on to SC for the south swell that hits Thursday...
And I get a text...
"Can't go, girlfriend has me tied to the..."
Well, this is a family blog so I won't go into details.
No worries.

(Insert string of really bad words screamed in frustration here)

Alright.
Once again, I am packed and really have no where I want to go now.
Why? Its a cursed trip, I will get eaten by a shark or something.
Shoreline Crips will set up shop in Redway and I would be done for.
I have to sit and think for a while.
To wish I was somewhere warm.

So I am unpacking my gear.
Though my wife wants me to GET THE FUCK OUT OF THE HOUSE AND GO SURFING.
You know how I know?
She gave me gas money.
(I spent it on hookers and beer)

This trip was important to me because I wanted to set the stage to rid myself of the most fucked up thing I have ever done (and thats counting my time in El Salvador).
A tobacco habit.
I smoke and I do not want to.
for 12 years, puffin'.
I hate it.
Fucking hate it.
But quitting is hard, for me, its been nigh impossible. But I have a plan and that plan requires me to spend a lot of time in the woods or on a nice right point somewhere.
Chain myself to a tree.
And Mr. Cranberry is a big guy and I told him, any time I light up on the trip, hit me.
And I was being truthful.
Oh I know, I will quit soon enough and that relying on others to do the hard work (though I think he likes hitting people) is wrong, blah blah.

Anyway, there is my little rant, I am laughing as I type this so don't think all is so fucking woe cuz it ain't.
I have some Alaskan Thunderfuck that will tell me different any time I flick my Bic.
See ya.

And Mr. Cranberry? I am going to zip tie your leash to Spikes' next time I see you in the water!

(again, all of this is a silly rant, my life is good, don't get upset, don't rejoice quite yet, don't rush off and email all of your OSP buddies and saying that old Dawg has gone off the deep end, I may not know where Kiwanda is but I can certainly spell it...)

Almost...

It looks like we won't get much surf next week but the weather looks good anyway.
And yes, SC is Santa Cruz...water is five degree's warmer and the chicks are...well.


In other news, I just ventured down to our local surf shop...
Its called Waxers...
And...no one associated with the shop actually surfs.
There are more piece of shit beat up and old ass boards in there than you could possibly imagine.
Starting at...350.00
Anyway, they do have a fin I wanted because of its color.
I can get a new one from FS for $19.60 but hey, I try to keep some money local.
So this fin they have is used, a bit beat but I can clean it up.
They want...$18.00 for it.
Same as new from FS.
Right about now I should mention that they do not have any wax.
Thats right, no surfboard wax.
None.
Zero.
WTF?
Welcome to Coos, please lower all expectations and enjoy your stay.

So I put the order in with FS, needed fin boxes anyway.
I should open up a shop here.
A real shop.
With wax.
And call it....
Waxes.

See ya.

Yawn....

Is it summer yet?
Surfed last eve in shit you wouldn't even call Florida-like.
Just awful but something to do. Some times, you just have to get
wet.
But frankly, its been shit for the last 6 weeks and I am so over the walled up and windy.

Mr. Cranberry says he is free for a bit so we made a tentative plan for a run to SC...which is already getting a strong southern pulse...and then I get the email...
"My girlfriend...." well....ya fucker! Ha!
So, I have everything set up so I might as well go tomorrow.
Dammit.
I don't mind solo surf trips but...
Anyway...

On the shaping front, I have the Turtle board within minutes of being finished, I still have no way of getting it to her and she has no way of coming to get it.
Uh oh.
Things go as they go.

I did the 5'8" mini Simmons in EPS last night, I will glass it when I get back. Its not an ordered board, just something I wanted to build. I will ride it before I put it up for sale but frankly, my surfing will over power any board that small. Hydrodynamica has a clip of a guy riding a 5'2" Trilobyte, that board is way too short and gets overpowered throughout the clip.

I dont care for the way EPS shapes out, it really is like an ice chest.
A spackled ice chest.

I am also designing a kneeboard for my self in the Simmons style. I rode some 2' windslop the other night on my sixten prone. The board in straight trim is very, very fast and I got to thinking that a Paipo or kneeboard would be really fun to have around. I did do some kneeboarding back in the day, mostly at spots that would rock a stand up surfer. We have some high tide wompers locally that might work.
And it only costs me about 70.00 to build one, including hand made fins, in epoxy.
Time to bust out the Churchills.
I think they are still attached to my sponge...
Anyway, not much else new going on.
I can't start a new board because I have all that I want in my own quiver.
One of you out there need to get a hold of me and order something so I don't go stir crazy.
I called Bob Miller in SC this morning and left a message. Last time I was in SC he shared some templates and shaping with me (but wouldn't let me buy his own personal Rambler!) so I will come back with some more knowledge.
If you don't know who Miller is...

Anyway, thats it for me.
I promise to leave this time.
Really.
Watch the Pleasure cam after Thursday for my finger.
See ya.

My eyes! My eyes!

Ok, they are still burning after paddling into that 30 knot offshore this morning.
It was hit and miss, waist high fun in between taking the head highs on the head.
That wind opened up a few cover ups but then blew you backwards in to the hole.
Surfed the go to board and had a blast while I could handle the wind. It was blistering and my eyes are still a bit cold and feel like they have been sandblasted.
Met a cool kid and his girlfriend, from Maryland, he has been surfing Cali and working his way north, told him Kiwanda was the shit and to bring friends when he surfs there.

Going to have a fun week.
I have an EPS blank for a mini Simmons here, hoping to blow it out shortly.
I also outlined Scotts' paper thin cross between a Simmons outline and a true S decked hull.
Parallel rails are fast.
Curved outlines are loose.
I took a 10'2" blank, flipped it bottom up, thats now the S deck. Now I will flatten out the former deck which is now the bottom in the middle third, plane in nose and tail rocker.
Hull it out, paper thin the rails. Run the foil like a Simmons and leave the tail at 17"...
You just have to see the board in the blank.
Yeah, thats it.
Anything is possible.
I wish I knew how long he wanted it before I made it 5'2"...kidding.

Speaking of hulls and various Simmons inspired boards...
I look at a lot of them. Before building my first a few months ago, I went through every picture and every article I could find. I talked to no less than three other shapers about the outlines and templates, fins and foils.
Murry at Head High was really helpful in the beginning.
So what I see out there is quite a few of these boards do not have the hull shape but stick with a traditional nose and bottom configuration, even forgoing the knifed rails and gaining some tail rocker.
This one below has a thinned nose and regular down rails.
Is it a square tailed fish or a mini type Simmons?



This little black one...now that is what I consider to be a mini. His shapes and contours are what I followed and took inspiration from when I started, you can plainly see his rails/foils in my boards though I don't go as 'mini' as he does.
His hulls rawk.

This one is Wildes and except for the bad ass resin work and super shiny finish, it too shares a lot with what I build. His outlines and mine are within mm's of each others.
Dig them Mod fins.Anyway, what works? Float and planing on a hull with pinched rails or the thinner, more typical nose and rail set up?
I think both.
For the chip rider wanting to swap, they will want super thin, something that 'feels' like what they are riding now.
The fuller, hull type bottom is better for those seeking the flow and style of long, arcing turns.
The hull shape is faster in my opinion.
The thinned out nose models will feel more user friendly.

Hey, I wore a leash today and went fast enough to make it hum on a shoulder high wave. I also tried to get upside down backside, get covered up frontside and try to get with Maryland kids' girlfriend.
One of those is a lie.

Anyway, something to think about.
I am just glad I don't have to ride longboard every time the surf gets less than 4'.

See ya.

Next...

The Mirage, doubled, on a square stern canoe...

"It looks like Florida...but cold"


Stoked: What you call two grown men playing in 1-3 foot windslop, air 50. water 48.

Thats right, Mr. Retrotrendynamic and his buddy will ride anything, anywhere.
We were out till almost dark in some nasty stuff.
Like Florida.
But cold.
But the sixten doesn't mind and I had a few decent waves at knee high.
Mr. L is like me, just happy to be in the water and not counting cranberries.
Or something.
The Circus Lightweight is with its new owner, he was stoked too, its a Lightweight thats actually light.
And he showed me the 'real deal', a Calvani Bing Lightweight...that weighed 25 lbs.
Ha...The Calvani has Volan and a nice glass job but I could not see much of a difference in the shape...oh, except I had the flatter rocker that the originals had through the middle third.
Get that Matt? Not all surfers are into the generic once size fits all rocker deals.
"If I wanted a banana, I would have asked for a banana..."
The new owner was happy, could be it was just because it was Friday or it could be that he just picked up a board that was truly a lightweight and looked like it should work for him.
It will be good to see him out in the water again. I have heard rumors about his bigger wave exploits, I know he disintegrated a surftech in macking NE.
Please don't kill the Circus board!

Anyway, the Turtle is calling me and I want to ask if any one is heading to Bend any time soon? From Eugene or Florence?
I have 50.00 for you to get a board over there from either place.
See ya.

Long story too short and wide...

I am in a long and detailed conversation with a fellow swayser about length vs. width in terms of volume left behind.
I was asked if I could shape out a board similar to a Liddle that popped up recently.
The board is thinned out, like a foot up from the tail it is 1 inch thick. At two feet up, it hits a whopping 1.5 inches and gets all the way to 2 and 11/16ths or something. Stays that way to 3 feet back from the nose where it starts its slide to the 11/32nds rail edge on the nose.
The guy who owns it says "I dont know where he hid the volume!"
I do!
It doesn't have any!
Holy smokes.
Its a good looking board, the Liddle. Nice wide tail, fuller plan shape than most of his hulls.
The tail and nose, the rails too, all super thin, I mean while shaping it out, its going to be bending the foam to even sand it let alone run a planer across it.
Liddle must do these on a support table.
So I thinned out a blank cut off last night to see how thin I could go.
1/4 inch was as far as I got. I took a 2' by 2" piece of foam and planed it to a 1/4 inch.
The it simply collapsed like a white foam black hole.
So I took a 9'2" blank and laid it out on a soft foam backing and was able to get to the 1/4 thickness (the blank will be cut down for a 5'6" Simmons) without cracking the foam.
So that may be how he does it.
Still, I don't think I can do it.
He is Liddle, I am a hack.

In yet another talk about boards...when did 23 inches become too wide?
My 10'6" was 25.5 and worked just fine. My first Simmons was 24 and it too did everything it was supposed to do.
My personal sixten is 23.5 and I rode it till dark last night in 2' peaky perfection (while watching the Cormorants build nests in the tree's), any less foam and I would have been struggling to catch the little grinders.
The formula, all things being relative...an inch of width is equal to 6 inches in length.
Since how much length of rail and outline can determine how 'loose' the board feels, wouldn't it make sense to go wider rather than longer for the same paddle and float?
I think it relates more to where you surf.
I surf lots of crap waves.
Even last night, I was the only one out.
Mushy, 200 yard paddles, funky rips are the norm here.
Yeah, it gets better sometimes but day in and day out, the local waves are mostly big mushy rollers.
I should move to Kiwanda...

Speaking of Kiwanda...
You want to know how long Karma lasts?

A certain surfer/shaper came through here a few years ago and pissed a few people off. It may have been that he brought 5 guys with him or he simply didn't follow the etiquette one needs to surf a certain spot here.
In any case, one of his boards-attached to a tourist-came through a few days ago.
There was some talk abut waxing the tourists' windows, lighting the guy on fire, stealing his lunch money...etc. (kidding mostly)
The guy looked around a bit for a kind eye but none to be found...
The guy paddles out on his super duper quad finned 6 foot something fish looking thing and flails around.
Just another two digit surfer on a four digit board.
Well, have mercy we said.
But it says a lot about being careful when you travel, especially if you own a business and people know who you are.
It won't matter how well you surf, what you leave behind in terms of bad Karma will last much longer and, like children often do, cause others who may or may not be associated with you to endure the ill will you left behind.
We let the tourist be...but if you know a guy with a new blue Toyota truck with a shell on it and a certain sticker from a shaper with a number on it...I think it was a green/orange looking quad fish, tell him the next time he wanders through SoOr, pull that sticker and tape over that logo on his board.
Karma you know. Through no fault of his own, he came this close to having some issues with a pretty nasty bunch.
Now you know why I have no use for logo's.

But of course, when I travel, I am Mister Smiley Good Time.
Get a wave, let one go, here comes another one.
Anyway, now that I have this bad taste in my mouth...

Another design thing to think about...
When does the rail become a fin?
When you do this...It's why hulls and even Simmons type boards have bladed rails.
Go ahead, try to draw out a high speed bottom turn like that on your chip...can't.


Not much on tap today, getting the Purple Turtle finished up is my only goal.
And, whatever you do, do not Google "making purple".
Who knew?

See ya.


"One wrong move and the Turtle gets it!"

Its been a quiet week in my hometown...

After putting off my surf trip for board building and then watching the weather turn shitty where I was headed...
Well, I guess I had more fun just being irresponsible.
It happens.
I wanted to go, I had shit to do.
Doesn't mean I gave up.
Wife is back today.
I have one board to finish by Saturday.
I just might get a crack at the spot I was heading to yet.

But I had fun this week.

I did this...
And then I did this one...(pics are big, click'em to see the foil and S deck, its worth it...)

And then I started this one...The Casper Simmons is 7'0" by 24" by 3 1/4", 19" nose, 19" tail, fins are 1/4" by 10 1/2" by 5" tall. Leash loop is Brazilian Rosewood.
Surfs just like my sixten, fast wide and stable. I charged some high tide beachbreak on it this morning and the board flies. Paddles a bit better than my sixten due to having a bit more hull and entry rocker. Once you are up, you don't notice its size, just the speed. And speed means you can go where you want to go on the wave.
I love these fucking boards.
And in Oregon, you can only get one from me.

Oh, I am sure some one else is going to shape one out, as soon as they put away the the dated thruster chip shit thats out there now.
Or the generic 'hi-performance' longboard that is so prevalent.

I also surfed the Bing Lightweight copy...
Second wave was a 10 yard ten over...backside.
Very lively due to it being light, 15 lbs or so.
I like it.
No really.
A lot.
Rides like an old friend because the shape is kinda that way.
Friendly.
It goes home tonight, I think he will be happy with it.
And I am humbled by the pintail.
And the pulled nose, both design traits I had shut my mind to.
But damn if the board isn't wonderful to ride.
Sorry for stealing all the waves Andrew...
Even in the run through the shorebreak, nothing but glide and drive.
I would like to have this board out at Cojo...yeah.
I should mention it's loose.
Oh, 9'4" by 23 1/2" by 18" nose by 16" tail by 3 1/4" thick, 50/50 pinched throughout. Slight belly to V bump to roll.


So thats what I have been up to.
That sheltered point is going to have to wait for me.
Maybe a hot Saturday night date or something...



And thats enough.


What did you do this week?

3.5 feet my eye

But thats what the buoys said. I saw 3' overhead a few times.

Here is more of the marathon glassing session....
I will have the Casper on Fire done by midnight, its hotcoated and waiting for fins and sanding, the other is on hold but I am
digging it. I still need to do its box and the deck hotcoat and I am afraid I am out of time, really want to leave tomorrow.

Have to run, SUP waves in twenty minutes...

'night Jimbob...

As predicted by the Almighty French Press...
We have this....thats the gator I found.


Its like the 60's really didn't run away to Oregon after the Summer of Love.
Ok, they did and they brought their Rainbows with them.


My next Simmons is getting this assault of color.
Thats fiberglass down there.



Thats the colors throughout the rails.


Thats the only picture I got of the 7'0" Casper.
Thats the tail of the Lightweight below.
Of course.

I like it and its one of the few boards I am going to polish out. The colors wash out in the pictures, they pop in person. The trick is to really get any 'mud' resin out of the lam.
It was fun, had not attempted this many colors before.
The board looks sweet now that its at least lammed. I have to be honest and say I did not like it at first.
I ain't a pintail guy.
But that tail up there and the foil attached to it...wow.

Did the Fire Board too but forgot to get more pictures.


'night.