Daily Bread of course...Lucky bastards, all I surf with are sea lions and lumberjacks...
Cheater Chick
Daily Bread of course...Lucky bastards, all I surf with are sea lions and lumberjacks...
Closer...
Fin box is in, pinlines are done, only the hotcoat and three hours of sanding remain...
Till Rambler Jr. takes to the waves.
Hmm.
First, where do you put it?
That looks like where it goes!
Six inches up from the tail, I was going to go seven but decided to keep the pivot fin option closer to traditional.
Taped it off, dremel with a small blade...here is the glass peeling up, its down pretty good but still fresh enough not to tear foam.
Some guys have a plunge router and a jig.
I can build a guitar so a hammer and chisel are all I need...
I didn't get pics of the glass fabric going in...
Tinted red resin to match the pinlines.
Here ya go.
10 minutes, start to finish.
Here is some shit I found on the beach after that Gale the other day...
Yeah.
Most of it I can use...the nylon gator would be nice on my squeegee arm, the coffee? Every one needs coffee. A small toy boat...give it to Stella and tell her its a shipwreck. Ear plugs? Sure, I have a planer that sounds like a friggin' airplane on meth.
A fishing float...cat toy!
Small bobber? Cat toy!
Reduce, reuse and scrounge.
See ya, off to check the surf type stuff, like waves.
Till Rambler Jr. takes to the waves.
Hmm.
First, where do you put it?
That looks like where it goes!Six inches up from the tail, I was going to go seven but decided to keep the pivot fin option closer to traditional.
Taped it off, dremel with a small blade...here is the glass peeling up, its down pretty good but still fresh enough not to tear foam.
Some guys have a plunge router and a jig.
I can build a guitar so a hammer and chisel are all I need...
I didn't get pics of the glass fabric going in...
Tinted red resin to match the pinlines.
Here ya go.
10 minutes, start to finish.
Here is some shit I found on the beach after that Gale the other day...
Yeah.
Most of it I can use...the nylon gator would be nice on my squeegee arm, the coffee? Every one needs coffee. A small toy boat...give it to Stella and tell her its a shipwreck. Ear plugs? Sure, I have a planer that sounds like a friggin' airplane on meth.
A fishing float...cat toy!
Small bobber? Cat toy!
Reduce, reuse and scrounge.
See ya, off to check the surf type stuff, like waves.
Scored
Big time.
Even got vibed a bit...for getting too many waves and not sharing.
Like its kiddie fucking day camp.
Eeesh.
You are either paddling deeper or for better position or you are not.
I tend to paddle to the peak, to the steep, to the spot.
Not sit and wait for it to come to me.
Whatever.
Rode the Simmons.
Its still faster than your board.
And it does snap.
It also sprays.
Had limited time out and actually snaked Scott, sorry Scott! Had to go!
I just finished the cheater coat...I normally don't do one but the Rambler 2 has a deep tint and I want it to look even deeper.
Maybe even pretty.
Yeah.
Grind the bottom lap tonight, do the pinline and start on the hotcoat.
Cool.
See ya, heading to the park tocatch feed the ducks.
Even got vibed a bit...for getting too many waves and not sharing.
Like its kiddie fucking day camp.
Eeesh.
You are either paddling deeper or for better position or you are not.
I tend to paddle to the peak, to the steep, to the spot.
Not sit and wait for it to come to me.
Whatever.
Rode the Simmons.
Its still faster than your board.
And it does snap.
It also sprays.
Had limited time out and actually snaked Scott, sorry Scott! Had to go!
I just finished the cheater coat...I normally don't do one but the Rambler 2 has a deep tint and I want it to look even deeper.
Maybe even pretty.
Yeah.
Grind the bottom lap tonight, do the pinline and start on the hotcoat.
Cool.
See ya, heading to the park to
I love the smell of resin in the morning
Did the bottom of the Rambler part 2 this morning, I would share pics but frankly, if you have seen one bottom done, you have seen them all. I did put in a tail patch, something I regret not doing on Rambler 1.
When I ran aground and ripped the glass-on fin off of it, the tail suffered some delam. a stiffer glass schedule would have spread the stress out and saved me some work.
I will also use a cheater coat on the deck, this will save me from using a deck patch and still give me a strong deck.
The tint came out great and the red pinlines will definitely give it a classic look.
Resin pinlines.
Just those will take two hours....
I should have it done by tomorrow, I told Loren about the board so hopefully he can ride it this weekend and see if it works for him.
The volume is the same as a 10'2" by 22 1/2, it will float a surfer up to 240 wet without the inherent issues of nose swing that you get from longer longboards.
Thats why my SUP is only 9'4".
Speaking of the SUP, the other day when I rode it in HH waves, it rocked. Carved as well as a high performance 9'6". The weight works to my advantage a bit, Its easier to carve up and over the top and still have momentum to drop back in the wave face.
One thing I want to note about riding a stand up...the way you catch waves by sliding in so early, its different than board surfing. Its a smooth and easy transition, perhaps because you are already moving along pretty good in the first place.
Anyway, going to have a look for waves...
See ya.
When I ran aground and ripped the glass-on fin off of it, the tail suffered some delam. a stiffer glass schedule would have spread the stress out and saved me some work.
I will also use a cheater coat on the deck, this will save me from using a deck patch and still give me a strong deck.
The tint came out great and the red pinlines will definitely give it a classic look.
Resin pinlines.
Just those will take two hours....
I should have it done by tomorrow, I told Loren about the board so hopefully he can ride it this weekend and see if it works for him.
The volume is the same as a 10'2" by 22 1/2, it will float a surfer up to 240 wet without the inherent issues of nose swing that you get from longer longboards.
Thats why my SUP is only 9'4".
Speaking of the SUP, the other day when I rode it in HH waves, it rocked. Carved as well as a high performance 9'6". The weight works to my advantage a bit, Its easier to carve up and over the top and still have momentum to drop back in the wave face.
One thing I want to note about riding a stand up...the way you catch waves by sliding in so early, its different than board surfing. Its a smooth and easy transition, perhaps because you are already moving along pretty good in the first place.
Anyway, going to have a look for waves...
See ya.
Rambler #2
Here is the deck glass going on Rambler Jr., its the same board as Rambler Sr. but a foot shorter and a touch less nose concave.And a tailblock.
Not very groundbreaking but frankly, its guaranteed to work as well as Rambler Sr.
Most longboard shapes that are traditional follow the outlines and contours of those boards built in the 1960's.
For a good reason.
They work for the traditional type of longboarding, small peelers, nose rides and drop knee turns. And my personal favorite-fading take offs.
This board is being built for a local guy who doesn't know I am building it for him.
He likes Rambler Sr. a lot, so much so he bought an Arrow CJ model on a whim.
But the CJ is a thinned out 9'8" with super sharp rails and its more for a guy who already has the traditional longboarding down. It would be hard to learn noseriding on a CJ.
IMO!
Nice board though, I like it.
But this Rambler Jr. has the foam he needs and more forgiving rails.
And a tail block.
I went with the hempy tan color again cuz I really like it.
Here is the process...
Lay out the glass and watching that your hands are super smooth, massage the shit out of, around the rails, across the deck, always working from the middle out....
Pour some resin on it (its 9'0" with six ounce so 1qt. does it)
Spread it out with your Thalco squeegee running excess off the deck and on the the rail laps...listen for the 'zip' across the glass and you are good.
Ah, thats looking good but I still see pooled resin. Pooled resin when clear aint so bad, pooled resin with tint...bad.
More massaging with the squeegee and here we are.
Aw crap! Did not see those scratches on the blank! Ooops! Oh well, once it is down, its down.
Laps are tight, resin is even...cool...bong load time....
One final look over with fresh eyes and Rambler Jr. will sit till it gels. Then I will cut the laps and do it all again on the bottom.
Then the deck again...
As Homer says..."How hard could it be?"
I encourage every surfer out there to at least build your own once.
Maybe I can talk Loren into sanding this one....lol.
BTW, if he doesn't want it, its for sale when finished...get your dibs in because if my wife sees one more board in the front yard, I am dead meat.
See ya.
Like a fish needs a bicycle
Had a half hour call last night with a guy who is after some alternative surfing craft, something I admire-after all, its a pretty generic surftech world out there and most Oregon shapers who have shops and stores are not doing anything new (epoxy doesn't really count as 'new', does it?)
When was the last time you saw some freak of foam come out of a shapers shack in Oregon?
How about a Hull?
A SUP?
A retro fish?
No?
A Simmons looking thing?
Again, no?
(I do not count, I am not a shaper but a poor ass surfer who only builds because I can't buy boards with my EBT food stamp card)
So we are chatting away, relating experiences and suddenly, I know whats coming...
Alaia...
"Could you?"
Uh...
Well yeah but...
Where are you going to ride it?
I have a plethora of spots to choose from but I can't think of one where this design would work. This isn't a warm watered and friendly ocean we are dealing with up here. A 3/4" thick by 7'0" by 17" relatively flat piece of wood is not going to go well at most spots up here.
Of course, Cape Kiwanda has the perfect set up for it, crowded, kooked out and a wave that merely dribbles even its best day. But some Soul Pumpkin from Ptown would be so styley on the thing, carving and sliding through the crowd on his way to a 5.00 pint at the pub.
Hmmm...ok, how long and what kind of wood?
Nah, aint happening, I can't shape something that will grace a wall more than it will ever be surfed.
But those of you who might be after one, check your skills first by surfing without fins. And I don't mean running out and buying a 'finless' board as I know those are 'all the rage'.
But grabbing your 5'2", pull the fins and go.
Good luck.
After the tenth time you are pile driven into the sand, get back to me.
Sure, Cyrus makes it look easy at Cardiff, you aint nor am I Cyrus. Cyrus couldn't walk on the beach up here without getting blown along the shore like so much tourist trash. Are you 130 lbs wet?
Me neither.
But if someone wants to shape one, its simple.
Shape a giant skate deck.
That way, after you realize just how hard it is to ride one, you can at least put wheels on it and bomb Mt. Tabor.
(note: Cape Kiwanda is an awesome wave with lots of awesome locals and awesome people visiting every chance they get. I could only hope to be as chill and as radical as those who frequent Oregons' Premier Surf Spot)
See ya!
When was the last time you saw some freak of foam come out of a shapers shack in Oregon?
How about a Hull?
A SUP?
A retro fish?
No?
A Simmons looking thing?
Again, no?
(I do not count, I am not a shaper but a poor ass surfer who only builds because I can't buy boards with my EBT food stamp card)
So we are chatting away, relating experiences and suddenly, I know whats coming...
Alaia...
"Could you?"
Uh...
Well yeah but...
Where are you going to ride it?
I have a plethora of spots to choose from but I can't think of one where this design would work. This isn't a warm watered and friendly ocean we are dealing with up here. A 3/4" thick by 7'0" by 17" relatively flat piece of wood is not going to go well at most spots up here.
Of course, Cape Kiwanda has the perfect set up for it, crowded, kooked out and a wave that merely dribbles even its best day. But some Soul Pumpkin from Ptown would be so styley on the thing, carving and sliding through the crowd on his way to a 5.00 pint at the pub.
Hmmm...ok, how long and what kind of wood?
Nah, aint happening, I can't shape something that will grace a wall more than it will ever be surfed.
But those of you who might be after one, check your skills first by surfing without fins. And I don't mean running out and buying a 'finless' board as I know those are 'all the rage'.
But grabbing your 5'2", pull the fins and go.
Good luck.
After the tenth time you are pile driven into the sand, get back to me.
Sure, Cyrus makes it look easy at Cardiff, you aint nor am I Cyrus. Cyrus couldn't walk on the beach up here without getting blown along the shore like so much tourist trash. Are you 130 lbs wet?
Me neither.
But if someone wants to shape one, its simple.
Shape a giant skate deck.
That way, after you realize just how hard it is to ride one, you can at least put wheels on it and bomb Mt. Tabor.
(note: Cape Kiwanda is an awesome wave with lots of awesome locals and awesome people visiting every chance they get. I could only hope to be as chill and as radical as those who frequent Oregons' Premier Surf Spot)
See ya!
Desperate...
Surfed the SUP at the SUP spot, 30 knot wind blowing straight into the 2' faces made ofr some challenging paddling. Its exercises like this that will def improve my skills...and get me blown all over the bay.
But it was fun, lots of log little waves, rain by the bucket full and then Sunshine.
Taped off the log for glassing, which I will get started on in the next ten minutes.
I am going with another three drop brown which means tan or hempy like the Simmons board.
The Simmons board.
I smile every time I think about it.
Anyway, thats it.
See ya tomorrow with pics of the process.
But it was fun, lots of log little waves, rain by the bucket full and then Sunshine.
Taped off the log for glassing, which I will get started on in the next ten minutes.
I am going with another three drop brown which means tan or hempy like the Simmons board.
The Simmons board.
I smile every time I think about it.
Anyway, thats it.
See ya tomorrow with pics of the process.
An addiction...
Was up late mowing foam on the new Simmons type craft at 7'4", I say 7'4" because thats where I lost all tail rocker on the 9'6" blank I started with.
I think with the longer length that tail rocker would become a hindrance when in trim but I need to do a bit of research before I settle on the 0 number. This one is stringerless too, sorry but I am thinking that stringers are going the way of the Dodo on these alternative craft. The Fish I built had very little flex, the Simmons has very little off the 19" tail (so far, it was only head high on the clean day) so whats the point if your glass schedule is solid?
I read this am that the nose scoop isn't really part of the equation on these craft...maybe but every one should spend two hours shaping one in, besides, how else would you get such an extreme S deck?
I will use the idea in the 7'4", I like how a little pool forms on the nose when you paddle, throw a couple of little jelly fish in there, maybe a starfish or two and enjoy nature in your own little tide pool.
Todd wants a 10'6" shaped but I hope I talked him out of it, something wider with less length, same paddle, more turn without the extreme nose swing.
Just because some guys can pivot 11' of foam doesn't mean every one should.
I say this from experience.
No surf today, 30 knots from the south, 8' at 8 seconds. I don't have a spot for that.
Maybe one...but I have the itch to stay in the shop.
Lets see...
8'0" retro pin...ready to glass
9'2" Log...ready to glass
7'4" Simmons...long way to go
Yep, plenty to do today.
Oh, one more thing to note for you future SUP guys.
I shaped mine to surf in smaller shit, waist high and smaller. I rode mine yesterday in occasional waist high with bigger sets coming through now and then. I had a bit of a channel to work with.
I paddled for a larger set wave and missed it, turned around and saw I was too far inside for the next. I turned tail and sat down, waiting to get creamed.
Yep.
Creamed.
Hit myself in the head with the paddle shaft.
Moral?
I will not be surfing that damn thing in any conditions where I will get caught inside.
There is just too much board to hang on to safely.
I guess with a leash on, one could bail off.
Yeah, seen that move.
No thanks.
See ya.
I think with the longer length that tail rocker would become a hindrance when in trim but I need to do a bit of research before I settle on the 0 number. This one is stringerless too, sorry but I am thinking that stringers are going the way of the Dodo on these alternative craft. The Fish I built had very little flex, the Simmons has very little off the 19" tail (so far, it was only head high on the clean day) so whats the point if your glass schedule is solid?
I read this am that the nose scoop isn't really part of the equation on these craft...maybe but every one should spend two hours shaping one in, besides, how else would you get such an extreme S deck?
I will use the idea in the 7'4", I like how a little pool forms on the nose when you paddle, throw a couple of little jelly fish in there, maybe a starfish or two and enjoy nature in your own little tide pool.
Todd wants a 10'6" shaped but I hope I talked him out of it, something wider with less length, same paddle, more turn without the extreme nose swing.
Just because some guys can pivot 11' of foam doesn't mean every one should.
I say this from experience.
No surf today, 30 knots from the south, 8' at 8 seconds. I don't have a spot for that.
Maybe one...but I have the itch to stay in the shop.
Lets see...
8'0" retro pin...ready to glass
9'2" Log...ready to glass
7'4" Simmons...long way to go
Yep, plenty to do today.
Oh, one more thing to note for you future SUP guys.
I shaped mine to surf in smaller shit, waist high and smaller. I rode mine yesterday in occasional waist high with bigger sets coming through now and then. I had a bit of a channel to work with.
I paddled for a larger set wave and missed it, turned around and saw I was too far inside for the next. I turned tail and sat down, waiting to get creamed.
Yep.
Creamed.
Hit myself in the head with the paddle shaft.
Moral?
I will not be surfing that damn thing in any conditions where I will get caught inside.
There is just too much board to hang on to safely.
I guess with a leash on, one could bail off.
Yeah, seen that move.
No thanks.
See ya.
Sweet
Nice day, buckets of rain, offshores, 5' plus and some thumping shorebreak.
Rode the Simmons again in the shit, love it, no twitch, all bitch.
How come the tail doesn't hang up when dropping in late?
I rode some slamming shorebreak on it, extremely late take offs and only got left behind once and that was my fault.
I was going to build one at 8'0" but I am thinking 7'0" or so instead. The basic design and foam distribution seems to really help paddle speed. It does paddle into waves easily and a 7'0" would be easier to get out of a 9'2" blank.
I guess I either got really lucky or I did my homework on the design, there is nothing like trolling through sways for hours and reading all of the other info out there on these boards.
The board surfs like they say they do. Lots of glide but you can think carve and it does, projects very well into the line you choose.
Saw S's finished hull, crazy acid colors on the bottom and top, cool board but I still say it must have been hell wrapping those knife rails! I think he is on to something with that board and I can't wait to try it.
Anyway, still two hours of light left...
See ya.
Rode the Simmons again in the shit, love it, no twitch, all bitch.
How come the tail doesn't hang up when dropping in late?
I rode some slamming shorebreak on it, extremely late take offs and only got left behind once and that was my fault.
I was going to build one at 8'0" but I am thinking 7'0" or so instead. The basic design and foam distribution seems to really help paddle speed. It does paddle into waves easily and a 7'0" would be easier to get out of a 9'2" blank.
I guess I either got really lucky or I did my homework on the design, there is nothing like trolling through sways for hours and reading all of the other info out there on these boards.
The board surfs like they say they do. Lots of glide but you can think carve and it does, projects very well into the line you choose.
Saw S's finished hull, crazy acid colors on the bottom and top, cool board but I still say it must have been hell wrapping those knife rails! I think he is on to something with that board and I can't wait to try it.
Anyway, still two hours of light left...
See ya.
All things being equal...
Rolled up to the beachie and its was on fire yesterday...so I suited up to join the 7 already out when I noticed who wasn't there.
I quietly slipped back into the van and headed for another little corner of my world.
Score.
One out.
Plus me.
5' reeling righthanders.
Though inconsistent, 11 waves added up to 600 yards of wide open faces.
And the wind never showed.
Neither did the Saturday kook patrol.
The two hour window came and went, committed to memory as one of the best days I have had at this spot.
I am heading out in a few for more, I know I won't score yesterdays treasure but thats ok.
Whats this?
What the hell?
Is that a Simmons inspired board?
Huh?
See anything you like?
The wife wont mind, its not a new board.
In fact, it could pass as vintage.
Tell her you saw it at a yard sale.
Still two more lay ups on the fins but thats to clean up the bamboo dust.
Its faster than your board.
It paddles very well.
Its surprisingly user friendly.
If you can surf rail to rail...in fact, I buried the rail both frontside and backside and the board did not flinch.
Did I mention its faster than your board?
Doesn't surf vertical but carves really tight instead, no snaps, just spray, lots of spray.
And glide.
Lots of glide.
This one is 6'8" measured on the bottom, 6'6" on the deck.
22 3/4" wide, 19" inch tail, 17" inch nose, wide spot 3" behind center.
Thin railed, knifey throughout.
Marine ply D fins at 5" tall, 10" bases, slightly foiled (NACA low speed)
Mild Hull bottom to flat to concave 'tween the fins.
3" nose rocker, 1" tail.
S deck.
All the foam is beneath your feet.
Balsa stringered nose, scooped.
Tan and rather hemp like resin tint over red spaghetti acrylic.
Alternating red/white pinline on the bottom.
Double six deck, single six bottom, rails wrapped 3 times.
Sanded finish to 600.
Resin leash loop for you dogs.
7 lbs.
Some cosmetic imperfections-its handmade after all.
Is it the only one in Oregon?
I think so.
Its for sale so I can build me a 8'0" just like it.
First 200.00 takes it.
Will work for a guy up to 200 lbs, down to 165 lbs if they have some power in their surfing.
Those that ride thruster type HiPro's wont like it.
I quietly slipped back into the van and headed for another little corner of my world.
Score.
One out.
Plus me.
5' reeling righthanders.
Though inconsistent, 11 waves added up to 600 yards of wide open faces.
And the wind never showed.
Neither did the Saturday kook patrol.
The two hour window came and went, committed to memory as one of the best days I have had at this spot.
I am heading out in a few for more, I know I won't score yesterdays treasure but thats ok.
Whats this?
What the hell?
Is that a Simmons inspired board?
Huh?
See anything you like?
The wife wont mind, its not a new board.
In fact, it could pass as vintage.
Tell her you saw it at a yard sale.Still two more lay ups on the fins but thats to clean up the bamboo dust.
Its faster than your board.
It paddles very well.
Its surprisingly user friendly.
If you can surf rail to rail...in fact, I buried the rail both frontside and backside and the board did not flinch.
Did I mention its faster than your board?
Doesn't surf vertical but carves really tight instead, no snaps, just spray, lots of spray.
And glide.
Lots of glide.
This one is 6'8" measured on the bottom, 6'6" on the deck.
22 3/4" wide, 19" inch tail, 17" inch nose, wide spot 3" behind center.
Thin railed, knifey throughout.
Marine ply D fins at 5" tall, 10" bases, slightly foiled (NACA low speed)
Mild Hull bottom to flat to concave 'tween the fins.
3" nose rocker, 1" tail.
S deck.
All the foam is beneath your feet.
Balsa stringered nose, scooped.
Tan and rather hemp like resin tint over red spaghetti acrylic.
Alternating red/white pinline on the bottom.
Double six deck, single six bottom, rails wrapped 3 times.
Sanded finish to 600.
Resin leash loop for you dogs.
7 lbs.
Some cosmetic imperfections-its handmade after all.
Is it the only one in Oregon?
I think so.
Its for sale so I can build me a 8'0" just like it.
First 200.00 takes it.
Will work for a guy up to 200 lbs, down to 165 lbs if they have some power in their surfing.
Those that ride thruster type HiPro's wont like it.
Thinner 2...
"Dude, I saw your blog post, that so shitty Dude, I like that board, its how they make them..."
He came by and picked it up last night.
I told him I could not make a board that is going to end up in a landfill within months if not weeks.
And Dude, if thats how "they" make them, dont buy them.
Oh well.
In other surfboard news...
I tried using more Bamboo cloth, have to say the stuff sucks.
Fiberglass is green enough for me.
I used bamboo dust to glass on some fins too.
I will be doing more sanding than I should be doing because again, the tech just isnt there for these 'green' alternatives.
The longboard skate I built using the cloth is holding up but its cloth over wood. Cloth over foam, not so much.
Might get some surf today, some kind of weird SW is coming through. Short period swell but I will have a look anyway.
Thats the news.
Off for the weekend.
See ya.
Oh, I have a few blanks heading up to Portland.
I might have around 6 8'4"'s and 9'2"'s to part with.
Any one need a blank or two, email at retroshaper@gmail.com
He came by and picked it up last night.
I told him I could not make a board that is going to end up in a landfill within months if not weeks.
And Dude, if thats how "they" make them, dont buy them.
Oh well.
In other surfboard news...
I tried using more Bamboo cloth, have to say the stuff sucks.
Fiberglass is green enough for me.
I used bamboo dust to glass on some fins too.
I will be doing more sanding than I should be doing because again, the tech just isnt there for these 'green' alternatives.
The longboard skate I built using the cloth is holding up but its cloth over wood. Cloth over foam, not so much.
Might get some surf today, some kind of weird SW is coming through. Short period swell but I will have a look anyway.
Thats the news.
Off for the weekend.
See ya.
Oh, I have a few blanks heading up to Portland.
I might have around 6 8'4"'s and 9'2"'s to part with.
Any one need a blank or two, email at retroshaper@gmail.com
Thinner
A friend stopped by a few minutes ago, I am holding his 'make me one just like it' board...
I grabbed the nose and the tail and bent the fucking thing. I could snap this board if I tried. It's 6'6" by 20" by....2 1/4"...
2 1/4".
Means I would have to shave off at least an inch from the blank.
Are you kidding me?
He is going to get a phone call in a minute, no talking, just laughter.
What is it with surfers thinking that this is enough foam for Oregon?
How long will a board like this last?
Is this why he wants it copied when its only three weeks out of the shop?
Good grief.
"Dude, see that move?"
"Naw man"
"Broke my board"
"The move?"
"Yeah, I laid down to paddle and it just snapped...."
I grabbed the nose and the tail and bent the fucking thing. I could snap this board if I tried. It's 6'6" by 20" by....2 1/4"...
2 1/4".
Means I would have to shave off at least an inch from the blank.
Are you kidding me?
He is going to get a phone call in a minute, no talking, just laughter.
What is it with surfers thinking that this is enough foam for Oregon?
How long will a board like this last?
Is this why he wants it copied when its only three weeks out of the shop?
Good grief.
"Dude, see that move?"
"Naw man"
"Broke my board"
"The move?"
"Yeah, I laid down to paddle and it just snapped...."
Pink eye
Its what little kids get when they are around other little kids.
Its what Stella has.
Pink eye means I did nothing productive today but study Dinosaurs, recycle paper, have fun with Play-Doh, bake bacon, go to the park, watch SpongeBob, chase bugs, catch bugs, pretend to eat bugs, put in a leash plug, look at a house on 4 acres we might buy, make dinner and now...
A few minutes to myself.
And what am I doing?
Reading Cordage on fins.
What?
You dont know what Cordage on a fin is?
What the heck you doing here?
Ha!
Anyway, no surf for me though I heard it was EPIC.
Some surf tomorrow with any luck as the weekend looks tossed.
This is out the back concave on the mini.
Its why I am reading about Fin Cordage.
See ya.
Its what Stella has.
Pink eye means I did nothing productive today but study Dinosaurs, recycle paper, have fun with Play-Doh, bake bacon, go to the park, watch SpongeBob, chase bugs, catch bugs, pretend to eat bugs, put in a leash plug, look at a house on 4 acres we might buy, make dinner and now...
A few minutes to myself.
And what am I doing?
Reading Cordage on fins.
What?
You dont know what Cordage on a fin is?
What the heck you doing here?
Ha!
Anyway, no surf for me though I heard it was EPIC.
Some surf tomorrow with any luck as the weekend looks tossed.
This is out the back concave on the mini.
Its why I am reading about Fin Cordage.
See ya.
I have to post this picture...
Because I like the way it shows how a board works. This is "Daily Bread" Jason on his mini Simmons type craft. It was built by Zamora for Jason and it seems to work well for him.
Click to make it bigger...
What I like about the sequence is how it shows the line the board takes, what it leaves behind, how its rails/tail/fin/nose all work together. The track can tell a shaper a whole lot more than just looking at a board and taking dims.
While his board length might work up here, I feel that we need a bit more foam and a bit more length for our conditions-4' Newport beachbreak isn't whats around the corner from me. More like big thumping beachbreak that requires some paddling not only to get out to but to get into the wave. I tossed this idea around and sways and most agreed with me.
The outline of these Simmons inspired craft isn't where the looseness and responsive nature lies, most of that is in the fin placement and rails. Length is the variable in all of these retro inspired craft.
The outline is just pure speed.
I will ride mine tomorrow though I am guessing I would want one at 8'0", not only for the paddle but to draw longer lines (I am old and old school). I built this one because I had the foam, the templates and a 6'4" Swift Movement Mini in the house for a week. (no, I didn't get to ride it)
We will see how it goes.
Credit Jdub for the great sequence shot.
Click to make it bigger...
What I like about the sequence is how it shows the line the board takes, what it leaves behind, how its rails/tail/fin/nose all work together. The track can tell a shaper a whole lot more than just looking at a board and taking dims.
While his board length might work up here, I feel that we need a bit more foam and a bit more length for our conditions-4' Newport beachbreak isn't whats around the corner from me. More like big thumping beachbreak that requires some paddling not only to get out to but to get into the wave. I tossed this idea around and sways and most agreed with me.
The outline of these Simmons inspired craft isn't where the looseness and responsive nature lies, most of that is in the fin placement and rails. Length is the variable in all of these retro inspired craft.
The outline is just pure speed.
I will ride mine tomorrow though I am guessing I would want one at 8'0", not only for the paddle but to draw longer lines (I am old and old school). I built this one because I had the foam, the templates and a 6'4" Swift Movement Mini in the house for a week. (no, I didn't get to ride it)
We will see how it goes.
Credit Jdub for the great sequence shot.
"but Honey, you knew I was a surfer when you married me..."
Yeah, I got nothing done today. I surfed the shitbreak, it was ok after going to the longboard.
Then I wandered over to the SUP spot and rode that for three hours. There is something about paddling the thing around and sliding into whatever wave comes along, its addicting.
And hot.
The sun was out strong and when you aren't in the water but standing and paddling, you get hot. I need to go with a 2 mil or less, my UHC Hotline is baking me.
I have sunburn on my face...in February.
But I rode about 200 1' waves, sliding the staircases and getting some loooong nose rides.
And just so you know that, yes, I am a inventive sort...
What do you do with the paddle while surfing? Soem hold it like its useless, others keep paddling with it or use it to prop themselves up. I stuff mine behind my back for noseriding, kind of like the hands behind the back thing but with an 84 inch paddle.
I also twirled it once like a Kung Fu stick...and today, I broke new Donkey ground...
I took off and trimmed up, went to the nose and then tried to balance the paddle straight up in the palm of my right hand, the handle resting comfortably and the blade sky high.
Geek.
Donkey.
I also learned that I can throw the paddle in a circle, the blade skimming across the nose and ending up on the side I need it on.
Way too much time on my hands...???
Anyway, having fun, hope you are too.
See ya.
Oh, got a bite on the Simmons, can't sell it unless I know how it works so I have to ride the damn thing.
Bummer.
I am hoping it surfs well, it should, it has the right stuff, it looks right, you just know, you know?
Well, I don't so I will ride it tomorrow in crap and see if it puts a smile on my face.
Now, see ya.
Then I wandered over to the SUP spot and rode that for three hours. There is something about paddling the thing around and sliding into whatever wave comes along, its addicting.
And hot.
The sun was out strong and when you aren't in the water but standing and paddling, you get hot. I need to go with a 2 mil or less, my UHC Hotline is baking me.
I have sunburn on my face...in February.
But I rode about 200 1' waves, sliding the staircases and getting some loooong nose rides.
And just so you know that, yes, I am a inventive sort...
What do you do with the paddle while surfing? Soem hold it like its useless, others keep paddling with it or use it to prop themselves up. I stuff mine behind my back for noseriding, kind of like the hands behind the back thing but with an 84 inch paddle.
I also twirled it once like a Kung Fu stick...and today, I broke new Donkey ground...
I took off and trimmed up, went to the nose and then tried to balance the paddle straight up in the palm of my right hand, the handle resting comfortably and the blade sky high.
Geek.
Donkey.
I also learned that I can throw the paddle in a circle, the blade skimming across the nose and ending up on the side I need it on.
Way too much time on my hands...???
Anyway, having fun, hope you are too.
See ya.
Oh, got a bite on the Simmons, can't sell it unless I know how it works so I have to ride the damn thing.
Bummer.
I am hoping it surfs well, it should, it has the right stuff, it looks right, you just know, you know?
Well, I don't so I will ride it tomorrow in crap and see if it puts a smile on my face.
Now, see ya.
Why....
I surfed for a bit yesterday, in between hotcoats and tailblocks...
Hit the local SUP spot on of all things-my SUP.
Everywhere else looked too big and out of control mostly. I would rather have shape than size any day.
I was surfing junk, 1' slop that would sometimes peel left, sometimes peel right and if you saw the stairstep, you could milk the wave 50 yards. I had a buddy shoot some video while I was out and after watching it, the secret to the SUP's noseriding talent became evident.
The best wave I got was a left, backside for me. I took off left-go-right and ran up to the nose for a quick five over and its obvious the weight of the board as well as the water on the deck from the lip are holding the board in. Keep in mind its still a single fin with a tail that is 19" wide, fin box is 7" up and I am using a pivot fin at 6" base and 11" tall. Even highline lip runs wont pop the fin out unless I force it. Whats going on back there? Lots of water on the deck, the board weighs out near 30 lbs. The video shows a clean wake and lots of 'air' beneath the nose, even during a quick ten the nose stayed up off the face.
Hmmm...
I def have learned something from this SUP.
Concaves are good for entry rocker and may have a bit to do with nose riding but if your rail and outline are good, it will nose ride. Wider is better in small, gutless surf.
I am 205 lbs. in a wetsuit and the SUP floats and paddles great at 9'3" by 31.5 by 4 1/4. It turns. Not 'longboard' pivot turns but actual lean and turn turns. I can't wait to get it out in bigger surf, not only to quiet the nay-sayers (there are many) but to see if I can get the damn thing to go vert and pull it around...
I get to surf all day today...after I finish up some board things.
Mike wants a leash plug in his board (leashes are for dogs)
The new 9'2" Gets bottom glass.
I need to get pictures of the mini Simmons craft (its going to be for sale, act now!)
And lastly, the tide needs to do its deal...
One more note on the leash thing to think about.
I have talked about 4 other surfers out of theirs. You see, if its 4' out and you are surfing beachbreak, how often do you fall? How far away from the board are you when you fall? How far away does the board go when you fall? Is the swim more than 25 yards?
But most importantly, if you are surfing small and gutless crap, do you know how much drag that 6' or 10' leash is inducing? No? Lots my friend, lots.
I have made a habit of surfing The Spot That Must Not Be Named without one. This is one board eating motherfucker, this spot. But it also has Bull Kelp and pinnacle rocks. Things that are just waiting to grab your leash and cause you havoc.
But I found that when I fall while surfing there, the board goes shoulder bound usually and I can reach it in three strokes. Huge advantage in paddle speed which means more waves for me. Huge advantage in not getting wrapped up in the kelp.
And thats what its all about, more waves.
So chuck your leash, limit the chicken string.
But then again, not much funnier than guys out in 2' slop roped to a 9'6" surftechs....
See ya in the water.
If you might be interested in the mini Simmons, shoot me an email at
retroshaper@gmail.com
Hit the local SUP spot on of all things-my SUP.
Everywhere else looked too big and out of control mostly. I would rather have shape than size any day.
I was surfing junk, 1' slop that would sometimes peel left, sometimes peel right and if you saw the stairstep, you could milk the wave 50 yards. I had a buddy shoot some video while I was out and after watching it, the secret to the SUP's noseriding talent became evident.
The best wave I got was a left, backside for me. I took off left-go-right and ran up to the nose for a quick five over and its obvious the weight of the board as well as the water on the deck from the lip are holding the board in. Keep in mind its still a single fin with a tail that is 19" wide, fin box is 7" up and I am using a pivot fin at 6" base and 11" tall. Even highline lip runs wont pop the fin out unless I force it. Whats going on back there? Lots of water on the deck, the board weighs out near 30 lbs. The video shows a clean wake and lots of 'air' beneath the nose, even during a quick ten the nose stayed up off the face.
Hmmm...
I def have learned something from this SUP.
Concaves are good for entry rocker and may have a bit to do with nose riding but if your rail and outline are good, it will nose ride. Wider is better in small, gutless surf.
I am 205 lbs. in a wetsuit and the SUP floats and paddles great at 9'3" by 31.5 by 4 1/4. It turns. Not 'longboard' pivot turns but actual lean and turn turns. I can't wait to get it out in bigger surf, not only to quiet the nay-sayers (there are many) but to see if I can get the damn thing to go vert and pull it around...
I get to surf all day today...after I finish up some board things.
Mike wants a leash plug in his board (leashes are for dogs)
The new 9'2" Gets bottom glass.
I need to get pictures of the mini Simmons craft (its going to be for sale, act now!)
And lastly, the tide needs to do its deal...
One more note on the leash thing to think about.
I have talked about 4 other surfers out of theirs. You see, if its 4' out and you are surfing beachbreak, how often do you fall? How far away from the board are you when you fall? How far away does the board go when you fall? Is the swim more than 25 yards?
But most importantly, if you are surfing small and gutless crap, do you know how much drag that 6' or 10' leash is inducing? No? Lots my friend, lots.
I have made a habit of surfing The Spot That Must Not Be Named without one. This is one board eating motherfucker, this spot. But it also has Bull Kelp and pinnacle rocks. Things that are just waiting to grab your leash and cause you havoc.
But I found that when I fall while surfing there, the board goes shoulder bound usually and I can reach it in three strokes. Huge advantage in paddle speed which means more waves for me. Huge advantage in not getting wrapped up in the kelp.
And thats what its all about, more waves.
So chuck your leash, limit the chicken string.
But then again, not much funnier than guys out in 2' slop roped to a 9'6" surftechs....
See ya in the water.
If you might be interested in the mini Simmons, shoot me an email at
retroshaper@gmail.com
...
No surf today but I did finish shaping the longboard, going to add a tailblock so no glassing.
But here are some pictures from the mini inspired finned like a twin Simmons.
Its dripped and brushed red acrylic, light tan resin tint.
Ta da.
I have yet to ride it, between riding my other boards, who has time?
Besides, I am not sure I can keep up with it, at my age...who knows?
Insane sequence of Jason on his at J-Dub, I think I can, I think I can...
Anyway, here is a current picture of my first log.
(no, the stand up isnt that big, its leaning on something)
My go to three days a week usually.
Its had 70 sessions, maybe more, in the last four months. Its dirty, its loved.
I dont ride it when we get waist high and up surf but it rocks in the zippers at the beach break. The deck has some denting-I didn't put on a patch and I knee paddle it exclusively. The 9'2" I am building will be its shorter twin.
See ya.
7 hours...
In the water yesterday.
Three spots, three boards, one wetsuit.
Rode the stand up in between the good stuff, had 3 hours on it and woke up sore as shit this morning.
Have to mention just how well the SUP noserides,
I can't say for sure why, I am a decent noserider, fives, tens are easy in decent, smaller surf.
But I had more nose time on the SUP then I usually get on my log even. Hard to figure out how something thats 9'4" by 31.5" will let you perch on the tip.
Conditions look good for today but I don't know that I will bother...ok, I will but I will tell the wife something else...
In other news, Obama was spotted chillin' at the Volcom house...
See ya.
Three spots, three boards, one wetsuit.
Rode the stand up in between the good stuff, had 3 hours on it and woke up sore as shit this morning.
Have to mention just how well the SUP noserides,
I can't say for sure why, I am a decent noserider, fives, tens are easy in decent, smaller surf.
But I had more nose time on the SUP then I usually get on my log even. Hard to figure out how something thats 9'4" by 31.5" will let you perch on the tip.
Conditions look good for today but I don't know that I will bother...ok, I will but I will tell the wife something else...
In other news, Obama was spotted chillin' at the Volcom house...
See ya.
New one for me...
Time for a new 9'2" Old School log for myself...
Here is how it starts...
First shaping is with a saw....
Bottom planed and cleaned up a bit...
Then, setting and measuring out the rocker at the tail...
And then the nose...
9'2" by 19 nose by 23 1/2 wide by 15 tail...
3/4" deep nose concave to belly to flat and kicked tail. 60/40 rails throughout with a hard foil kick at the tail bringing the rail up and onto the deck.
Big glass on D fin (on its way from Florida).
Volan glass, cutlaps and resin tint.
I will finish the bottom after surfing this morning, lay the template and cut the outline. Skin the deck tomorrow and then the rails.
Might lay glass tomorrow...
But right now, gone surfing.
See ya.
Here is how it starts...
First shaping is with a saw....
Bottom planed and cleaned up a bit...
Then, setting and measuring out the rocker at the tail...
And then the nose...
9'2" by 19 nose by 23 1/2 wide by 15 tail...
3/4" deep nose concave to belly to flat and kicked tail. 60/40 rails throughout with a hard foil kick at the tail bringing the rail up and onto the deck.
Big glass on D fin (on its way from Florida).
Volan glass, cutlaps and resin tint.
I will finish the bottom after surfing this morning, lay the template and cut the outline. Skin the deck tomorrow and then the rails.
Might lay glass tomorrow...
But right now, gone surfing.
See ya.
Freaks
Thats what you find when you have massive swell and tide swings...
I watched a left yesterday that would have scared the Shipsterns guys peel off a slab reef for 50 yards. It was 15' plus and grinding away, so hollow and spitting you could have put a school bus in it-sideways.
It was breaking maybe 20 yards of the beach and was makeable.
Not for me though.
I ended up at a different freak, high tide push plus 10' swell equals one quality sandbar where none should exist.
Its not often you get to finish out a wave up a creek 20 yards.
I have surfed that freak before but not with the shape and size it had yesterday.
And only two guys on it.
State Park Ranger: You ever make it to the bridge?
Me: Not yet.
SPR: Looks like you will today!
The spot was good for two hours, no more, no less.
On the shaping front, I finished shaping a blank for a friend, he wants to do the glass. Its a copy of the first board I made but downscaled for his weight and it has a touch more nose rocker.
I prefer flatter decks and keeping some volume in the board, using the bottom for the rocker and the rail for the foil.
I was on an 8'0" yesterday and burning my friend who was on a 9'4" Arrow. I had the same volume as he but with a faster foil and less board presented to the water surface.
My 8'0" will paddle into waves better than his 9'4", all things being equal.
Wider/thicker is better than longer/thinner.
Who needs all that nose swing?
We scaled his board using AKU, a little more curve in the last 36" for some carve.
Of course we dented the deck just carrying it out to his car...no worries.
Mikes board gave me issues with the acrylic pinlines drifting off on one side of the deck. I don't know why but the line lifted in the hotcoat and drifted down the rail. I found the mess, sanded it out, redid the pin and did the hotcoat again.
The pinline once again migrated in these three area's.
WTF?
I have no idea, contamination?
We are going to sand it out and just do the line on top of the hotcoat and then clearcoat it.
Well, he is going to sand it out. I have given up enough time on it!
Thats all the news from here.
The wife did a Hafla last night, raised 104.80 in cash and about 80 lbs. of food for the local food bank.
Cool.
See ya.
I watched a left yesterday that would have scared the Shipsterns guys peel off a slab reef for 50 yards. It was 15' plus and grinding away, so hollow and spitting you could have put a school bus in it-sideways.
It was breaking maybe 20 yards of the beach and was makeable.
Not for me though.
I ended up at a different freak, high tide push plus 10' swell equals one quality sandbar where none should exist.
Its not often you get to finish out a wave up a creek 20 yards.
I have surfed that freak before but not with the shape and size it had yesterday.
And only two guys on it.
State Park Ranger: You ever make it to the bridge?
Me: Not yet.
SPR: Looks like you will today!
The spot was good for two hours, no more, no less.
On the shaping front, I finished shaping a blank for a friend, he wants to do the glass. Its a copy of the first board I made but downscaled for his weight and it has a touch more nose rocker.
I prefer flatter decks and keeping some volume in the board, using the bottom for the rocker and the rail for the foil.
I was on an 8'0" yesterday and burning my friend who was on a 9'4" Arrow. I had the same volume as he but with a faster foil and less board presented to the water surface.
My 8'0" will paddle into waves better than his 9'4", all things being equal.
Wider/thicker is better than longer/thinner.
Who needs all that nose swing?
We scaled his board using AKU, a little more curve in the last 36" for some carve.
Of course we dented the deck just carrying it out to his car...no worries.
Mikes board gave me issues with the acrylic pinlines drifting off on one side of the deck. I don't know why but the line lifted in the hotcoat and drifted down the rail. I found the mess, sanded it out, redid the pin and did the hotcoat again.
The pinline once again migrated in these three area's.
WTF?
I have no idea, contamination?
We are going to sand it out and just do the line on top of the hotcoat and then clearcoat it.
Well, he is going to sand it out. I have given up enough time on it!
Thats all the news from here.
The wife did a Hafla last night, raised 104.80 in cash and about 80 lbs. of food for the local food bank.
Cool.
See ya.
Its fucking cold!
Snow yesterday...it didnt stick but I didn't bother checking for surf though I am sure there was some 'round here.
I haven't been in the shop the last few days as we suffered a joy riding car thief over the weekend...
Woke up Saturday morning to see that either my wife parked down the street or someone stole her car...
A 1987 Volvo wagon with 230 thousand miles on it.
The cops found it by 0800, wrecked pretty much after a night of mudbogging-at least that how it looks. Motor mounts broken, windshield, flat tire, dents and dings all over it.
Fuckers.
But we had been looking for another one anyway so its mostly all good. The really bad thing was we were going to give the car to someone who needed it. It was safe and reliable though showing its age.
We picked up a 'new' one yesterday, a 1993 with 295 thousand miles on it...lol.
All highway miles so it still has a ways to go.
The wife is happy and thats a good thing.
And we have yet to finance a car.
Goodbye Ingrid, thanks...
Here she is going to Vegas for blanks...
And to LA for blanks...
They may catch the kids yet, who knows...but if they do, the parents get to put out some dough for not being good parents...lol.
Fucking kids.
Whats funny is...
My van was parked in front of her car with the keys in it and loaded up with four boards, three wetsuits and a SUP paddle...I would have swiped the Volvo too...
See ya.
I haven't been in the shop the last few days as we suffered a joy riding car thief over the weekend...
Woke up Saturday morning to see that either my wife parked down the street or someone stole her car...
A 1987 Volvo wagon with 230 thousand miles on it.
The cops found it by 0800, wrecked pretty much after a night of mudbogging-at least that how it looks. Motor mounts broken, windshield, flat tire, dents and dings all over it.
Fuckers.
But we had been looking for another one anyway so its mostly all good. The really bad thing was we were going to give the car to someone who needed it. It was safe and reliable though showing its age.
We picked up a 'new' one yesterday, a 1993 with 295 thousand miles on it...lol.
All highway miles so it still has a ways to go.
The wife is happy and thats a good thing.
And we have yet to finance a car.
Goodbye Ingrid, thanks...
Here she is going to Vegas for blanks...
And to LA for blanks...
They may catch the kids yet, who knows...but if they do, the parents get to put out some dough for not being good parents...lol.
Fucking kids.
Whats funny is...
My van was parked in front of her car with the keys in it and loaded up with four boards, three wetsuits and a SUP paddle...I would have swiped the Volvo too...
See ya.
New spot...
Ok, there is much to be discovered on this Coast...and with the deadly low tides we have been having, a few 'mysto' and rare spots have been popping up.
Yesterday I watched a left peel for 60 yards, machine made. Was maybe 4' on the sets but the shape was flawless and reeling.
I was with my daughter hiking so I didn't get to surf it...
But today we have the exact same conditions and except for a quick hotcoat, I am free to explore.
Time to pioneer buddy 'cuz I know that no one has ever paddled this peak.
Finding new waves is when your 'mind surfing' comes in to play. Visualize where to sit, what rocks to look out for, where to get out of the wave before it smashes into the rock face. Doing all of this will get you waves that no one else sees.
Cool.
To still find unridden and uncharted spots in 2009, right here in a city of 30,000.
Ok, so there are only 9 surfers here...but still, its a rush I am looking for at exactly 2:20...till then, I will be at the go to....
See ya and try to get some...
Here is a cheesy picture my wife took a few weeks back while surfing the local shit spot.
I don't know what I was doing, maybe throwing the board up for a high line on the knee high crumbler?
Gone for the weekend....
Yesterday I watched a left peel for 60 yards, machine made. Was maybe 4' on the sets but the shape was flawless and reeling.
I was with my daughter hiking so I didn't get to surf it...
But today we have the exact same conditions and except for a quick hotcoat, I am free to explore.
Time to pioneer buddy 'cuz I know that no one has ever paddled this peak.
Finding new waves is when your 'mind surfing' comes in to play. Visualize where to sit, what rocks to look out for, where to get out of the wave before it smashes into the rock face. Doing all of this will get you waves that no one else sees.
Cool.
To still find unridden and uncharted spots in 2009, right here in a city of 30,000.
Ok, so there are only 9 surfers here...but still, its a rush I am looking for at exactly 2:20...till then, I will be at the go to....
See ya and try to get some...
Here is a cheesy picture my wife took a few weeks back while surfing the local shit spot.
I don't know what I was doing, maybe throwing the board up for a high line on the knee high crumbler?
Gone for the weekend....
Darn it...
I forgot to load pics this morning...oh well, later.
Mike and I did the deck patch and last 6oz on his deck last night after surfing most of the day. Looks pretty good though my pinline work left something to be desired...
Doing the box and sanding today of the surf lets me.
Its been too fun here ofr much shaping or glassing, four hours in the water on the 10'0" and the SUP yesterday.
The SUP design is working out well, the curvy outline is loose and it rides like a 9'6" HPLB. No problems noseriding it which surprised me. I didn't build anything special into the nose to aid in noseriding, no chine, no concave but I had fives and almost a ten yesterday.
I am still using a 12 inch pivot fin on it, I will stick with that fin until I see a need for adding outside fins. So far I have not spun it out though it does have that 'about to side slip' feel.
I might start another one before I sell this one, go a bit longer and give up a touch of width. I can turn this one around in 3 seconds and get enough momentum to catch waves but I wouldn't mind building one with more Bay paddling in mind.
Oh, that was my fourth session on it and I fell off only twice.
Why mention this?
Well...when you are standing and paddling, you get dry, you get hot.
But when you toss of into 47 degree water, you remember it and do not want to do it again.
And for those out there that bag on SUP'ers...I don't think you get it...
The little shit local that has 6 months in the water and tries to ride a 5'9" by 19" in mush...yesterday he mentions how he won't ride a board he can't duck dive.
He thinks my boards are too wide at 23"...and blah blah blah...
Its that mindset that I don't get. I am not committed to only one style of board, I ride what suits the conditions. He seems to think that you only get one board...and refuses to see that a board should suit the conditions or you will just get to watch.
I had 22 waves to his 3 yesterday.
Because my mind is open to riding what works, not what Slater can ride in 2' mush.
And I am too smart to have to duck dive much.
Kids.
Meh.
Anyway, thats the news, pics later of the Mike board.
No surf for me today, a short window from 1130 to 230 is all I get.
Oh well, not a dry suit to be had anyway!
Mike and I did the deck patch and last 6oz on his deck last night after surfing most of the day. Looks pretty good though my pinline work left something to be desired...
Doing the box and sanding today of the surf lets me.
Its been too fun here ofr much shaping or glassing, four hours in the water on the 10'0" and the SUP yesterday.
The SUP design is working out well, the curvy outline is loose and it rides like a 9'6" HPLB. No problems noseriding it which surprised me. I didn't build anything special into the nose to aid in noseriding, no chine, no concave but I had fives and almost a ten yesterday.
I am still using a 12 inch pivot fin on it, I will stick with that fin until I see a need for adding outside fins. So far I have not spun it out though it does have that 'about to side slip' feel.
I might start another one before I sell this one, go a bit longer and give up a touch of width. I can turn this one around in 3 seconds and get enough momentum to catch waves but I wouldn't mind building one with more Bay paddling in mind.
Oh, that was my fourth session on it and I fell off only twice.
Why mention this?
Well...when you are standing and paddling, you get dry, you get hot.
But when you toss of into 47 degree water, you remember it and do not want to do it again.
And for those out there that bag on SUP'ers...I don't think you get it...
The little shit local that has 6 months in the water and tries to ride a 5'9" by 19" in mush...yesterday he mentions how he won't ride a board he can't duck dive.
He thinks my boards are too wide at 23"...and blah blah blah...
Its that mindset that I don't get. I am not committed to only one style of board, I ride what suits the conditions. He seems to think that you only get one board...and refuses to see that a board should suit the conditions or you will just get to watch.
I had 22 waves to his 3 yesterday.
Because my mind is open to riding what works, not what Slater can ride in 2' mush.
And I am too smart to have to duck dive much.
Kids.
Meh.
Anyway, thats the news, pics later of the Mike board.
No surf for me today, a short window from 1130 to 230 is all I get.
Oh well, not a dry suit to be had anyway!
Surf, surf and more surf....
So what would I be doing posting here?
Got to run, suits to dry, second layer of deck glass to get down, hot coat tonight...
But in the mean time...
6' at 16 seconds....
See ya.
Oh, in my former life, I used to build these...
This one lives in Boise, plays in a house band three nights a week and came back for a retrofit.
I would rather build surfboards...
Got to run, suits to dry, second layer of deck glass to get down, hot coat tonight...
But in the mean time...
6' at 16 seconds....
See ya.
Oh, in my former life, I used to build these...
This one lives in Boise, plays in a house band three nights a week and came back for a retrofit.
I would rather build surfboards...
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